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shackle angle help / ideas .?

sweetk30

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helping a friend and before we do more work for nothing I am looking for best options.

its 56" rear stock 3/4 ton springs brand new .
ord 4" flip kit
diy4x 5" usdr shackles
full greaseable polly bushing kit in rear suspension
1ton long bed truck all weight on it its going to get .

this is pic of shackle angle as it sits now .

was thinking move hangers to 52" position and flip side to side to get better angle for smother ride and best starting angle on shackle over this now .

100_3231.JPG
 
so he come over tonight and we are playing around with the angle .

with a plumb boob stock its just a hair forward to truck .

then we unbolted the flip from the frame and slid it forward just a hair ( see pic ) and now the angle looks so much better . seems to move better when bouncing the truck on the bumpers .

were at 1 3/8" off plumb to the back now . I think will lock it down here .

100_3235.JPG

100_3233.JPG
 
Even on flexy stuff I don't go a ton more than that.

I think the angle of your dangle is great should work well
 
I'd bolt it back up in the original location. The more shackle angle you run the more the spring rate rises as it compresses. Imagine if instead of having a rear shackle, it just had a roller. In that case, there is no force on the spring eye other than up and down so as the spring gets long the only forces in the system are still just the rate of the spring's steel being flexed up. Same as the spring goes into a negative arch, you're still only flexing the spring material. Load and deflection measurements of this system give you the spring's true rate.

With a shackle in the system at a severe angle, when the spring goes flat and tries to get shorter it has to pull the bottom end of the shackle forward. In order to pivot forward the shackle has to become more vertical so it's lifting the truck at the same time as the spring itself is trying to lift up the truck. This causes a skyrocketing spring rate. It's enough that when we've played with proving the concept an extreme angle will make the truck feel like it's bottoming out when the spring goes flat. Same truck with 20 degrees less shackle angle and the ride quality improves. In general a rising spring rate is desirable from a load carrying standpoint but you have to be careful how much it rises. When your shackle angle (measured between spring main eyes and shackle centers when the leaf is flat) goes to 60 degrees your suspension rate can end up 50% over the spring's rate due to the shackle "standing up".

You are set up to go down to around 55 degrees with the flip moved forward. If it really is moving more freely (which does show up on a graph but not in a huge way) at the static ride point you're testing, it may not show up as well in the real world because of the aggressive rate rise as the suspension compresses. You're at a slightly softer point on the curves now but it gets stiff quick. Keep in mind this rate rise isn't only when the leaf goes flat, it ramps up to that point. I understand that factory 3/4T pack will probably just make flat or maybe a bit inverted but the effect starts at ride height.

Part of the wonderful of the tension shackle is that the suspension rate increases dramatically BUT it's a much sharper increase in rate and happens farther into the travel so you get a suspension that protects itself from overcompressing aggressively but lets the axle travel pretty freely (at a rate very close to the springs' actual rate) up to that point. It's almost a bumpstop effect built in which is why the OEMs love them.

You're actually in a good position to test this out if you want to play with it. Drill some extra holes that give it a more extreme angle (around that 1.5" ahead looks good for this purpose) and drive it a while. Then slide it back and see how it feels. Fortunately on a truck it's easy to do since you don't have to drop a tank to get to the inside of the frame. I'd be curious to see how noticeable the change is on that combo of parts. If I had to do it once I'd follow the book.
 
he isn't going to be hauling tons of weight / or pulling big trails .

its mostly play toy and weekend cruiser truck .

but like you said try it here and if to stiff or harsh move it back some.

there 22-547 rear replacement leaf packs with your greasable poly kit in all of it .

we tried jumping up and down in the back of the box at the tail gate . 250ish lbs of man . . . . . and it was little stiff and seemed like shackle had to work to go backward .

once we moved it it was softer and also seemed to try and lay out more than before .

if I recall we did just 1 3/8 forward from stock hole pattern . measured from grease fitting to fitting frt/rear eye's to make sure both sides same amount moved .

anything will be better than 6" full rough country all spring lift with 52" rears that were in it with the rear hangers moved up correctly . :doah:
 

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