I've been busy doing a million things like normal, but here is one of my on going projects. I've pulled the 1/2 ton axles and have a set of 3/4 tons (D44 front/D60 rear) to go in but at the same time I wanted to remove the 6" blocks from the rear.
Had a small issue pulling the 52" springs and had to break out a sawzall to get one bolt on both springs.
I've scavanged as set or rear spring front hangers and 56" springs to replace the stock setup. I first mocked it up using the 56" springs and the stock shackle, but it didn't look like it would work all that well to match the 6" front springs.
So after ordering a set of longer shackles from Kert at DIY4X I've got a better overall setup. Its shown in the pics at full droop but missing the weight of the axle and tires hanging on it still.
I positioned the bracket by re-using the upper rear rivet hole from the original bracket. Then drilled 3 new holes, all reamed for a tight fit on a 7/16" bolt. Ideally you want the shank of the bolt to be the only thing in the frame and a tight fit with no threads against the frame or bracket hole. Its perfect if you have to tap the bolts in lightly with a hammer.
I won't know the net lift until I finish getting the axles and tires back under the truck and check to see how level it sits with weight on it. But I'll adjust with a zero rate if needed. I should be close to level with this setup.
Had a small issue pulling the 52" springs and had to break out a sawzall to get one bolt on both springs.
I've scavanged as set or rear spring front hangers and 56" springs to replace the stock setup. I first mocked it up using the 56" springs and the stock shackle, but it didn't look like it would work all that well to match the 6" front springs.
So after ordering a set of longer shackles from Kert at DIY4X I've got a better overall setup. Its shown in the pics at full droop but missing the weight of the axle and tires hanging on it still.
I positioned the bracket by re-using the upper rear rivet hole from the original bracket. Then drilled 3 new holes, all reamed for a tight fit on a 7/16" bolt. Ideally you want the shank of the bolt to be the only thing in the frame and a tight fit with no threads against the frame or bracket hole. Its perfect if you have to tap the bolts in lightly with a hammer.
I won't know the net lift until I finish getting the axles and tires back under the truck and check to see how level it sits with weight on it. But I'll adjust with a zero rate if needed. I should be close to level with this setup.
Last edited:
