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Shackle flip travel question…

nutt7

nutt7

1/2 ton status
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Ahwatukee, AZ -> JBLM, WA
So I’m going to be swapping to 56” stock 3/4 ton springs on my burb with a 4” shackle flip.

Does anybody have any data of up and down travel for this configuration so I can plan my shock mounting options? I want to say it’ll droop more than the uptravel? I can’t remember what I read.

Keep in mind the burb is heavy in the back compared to trucks and k5s. I also have a 14bff and about 200 pounds of tire carrier/bumper, and a potential zero rate to give a super slight rake.
 
Its best to cycle the suspension by using just the main leaf, then figure shock mounting and bumpstops from that exercise.
 
76zimmer said:
Its best to cycle the suspension by using just the main leaf, then figure shock mounting and bumpstops from that exercise.
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Just push and pull through the swing of the shackle? That should be easy since I’m pulling the pack apart anyway to clean and add new wear pads. Thanks!
 
Yes by using just the main leaf (and perhaps a wooden block to make up the spring pack thickness) cycle your suspension similar to using an RTI ramp to stuff and droop each corner.

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What I did to figure out my shock travel length on my 10" lift was measure how many inches from shock mounting eye to shock mounting eye, and then divide that in half. That will be the shock travel length you need. My eye to eye measurement was 21" on both front and rear. The closest shock travel available to that was 10". I went to ORD, and ordered a set of their Bilstien 1500 series shock that had 10" of total travel.

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1-ton said:
What I did to figure out my shock travel length on my 10" lift was measure how many inches from shock mounting eye to shock mounting eye, and then divide that in half. That will be the shock travel length you need. My eye to eye measurement was 21" on both front and rear. The closest shock travel available to that was 10". I went to ORD, and ordered a set of their Bilstien 1500 series shock that had 10" of total travel.

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I have that measurement and it looks to also be around 10” travel (my lower mounts are higher up the tube) but I know some springs have different characteristics, so if these have more droop than bump, I know how to bias the resting position of the shocks so it’s travel matches the spring.
 
Am running 56" stock 1 ton springs. With 2 bottom thin leaves removed. 4" shackle flip. I tried 4" hd shackles but the angle was to tight, the springs were gouging the inside of shackles. I switch the 4" out for 6" shackles and it is much better angle. I am also running ORD 5100's but don't recall how long atm. Am traveling will measure when home.
 
Wes Harden said:
Am running 56" stock 1 ton springs. With 2 bottom thin leaves removed. 4" shackle flip. I tried 4" hd shackles but the angle was to tight, the springs were gouging the inside of shackles. I switch the 4" out for 6" shackles and it is much better angle. I am also running ORD 5100's but don't recall how long atm. Am traveling will measure when home.
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I appreciate it. Were you always on 56s? I have the 4.5” ORD shackles.
 
No I went from k20 burb 52" springs, with lift blocks to 56 1 ton and 4 ord shackle flip. I the first shackles might have been 4.5".
 
1-ton said:
What I did to figure out my shock travel length on my 10" lift was measure how many inches from shock mounting eye to shock mounting eye, and then divide that in half. That will be the shock travel length you need. My eye to eye measurement was 21" on both front and rear. The closest shock travel available to that was 10". I went to ORD, and ordered a set of their Bilstien 1500 series shock that had 10" of total travel.
Click to expand...
This isn't the right way to do it, as the up travel and down travel are potentially quite different, depending on the setup. For a flexy trail rig, it's asking for trouble. On a stiff-springed street rig (maybe usually has a swaybar, too) it will probably work out just fine.
 
83ChevyK5Blazer said:
With 1/2 ton 56 on my suburban I also went with a 6 inch shackle for a bit better angle. The stock length was a bit to verticle for my liking.
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That’s the nice part about my situation. I can place that shackle mount wherever I want to get proper swing. I don’t plan to simply measure 4” back and drill.
 
you just swap the flip brackets from left to right to use 56" not drilling required
 
Wes Harden said:
you just swap the flip brackets from left to right to use 56" not drilling required
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I’ve heard of doing that. I still want to measure to see where it lands. I want that shackle just shy of fully swung when the spring is flat so I can maximize the spring travel
 
Blue85 said:
This isn't the right way to do it, as the up travel and down travel are potentially quite different, depending on the setup. For a flexy trail rig, it's asking for trouble. On a stiff-springed street rig (maybe usually has a swaybar, too) it will probably work out just fine.
Click to expand...
It is the right way to do it if you are dealing with standard street shocks. It would be different if you are talking about coil over shock suspension. My truck has 5" of compression stroke, and 5" of rebound stroke with limiting straps of 2" to 3" travel.
 
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In that case it's fine. You never mentioned how you measured those things - just implied you cut the total distance in half and called it good enough.
 
Never heard of “bumpstops” and “limiting straps”
Is that was happens when you catch “a Jeep thing”?

More than just cycling the suspension… will you be able to move mounts? I ran stock position mounting for a while and just measured what I needed for shocks. Once you start moving things is when you can custom wheel travel to your needs. I’ve got 14” travel shocks out back and 16” up front. But, that’s with shock hoops and going through the bed.

Also (and this is more for the Blazer guys) going to 56s, shock mounting, driveshaft length, and maybe even an anti-wrap bar means it’s prime timing to flip those 56s around and gain back some wheelbase. I highly recommend it. Hasn’t affected driveability at all.
 
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