http://www.offroadexchange.com/projects/u_bolt_flip.htm
I remember reading about Shaggy's stuff years ago. Seems like a simple mount to fabricate and might add a bit of flex for those running standard shock ends.
Shock mounts can be of several designs. Shaggy's use 1/4" thick 1 1/2" angle iron cut into 2" piece with a 9/1/6" hole drill in it. A 1/2" nut was then welded to the front of the angle iron over the hole. A 2 1/4" grade 8 bolt and 2 1 1/2" fender washers were used to bolt the shock to the new mount. the mount was then welded to the axle tube just inside of the U bolts. A variation of this would be to weld the bolt head to the angle iron instead of the nut. This makes putting the shocks on a bit easier. Just make sure you weld it up really good. It's amazing how much force these things take.
If you want to get really tricky you can try this! with your shock mounts. It's the Shaggy's mount detailed about with an added feature. Take a 6" long, 1 1/2" wide piece of hot rolled 1/4" steel plate. Drill 1 1/4" hole smack dab in the center and a 1/2" hole in each end, 3/4" from all sides. Bend the piece of steel into a U so that the inside dimension is 1 1/2" and then drill that 1/4" hole out to 3/4". Take some 3/4" .120 wall tube and cut off a 3/4" long piece. Weld that into the center hole of the U shaped piece and slide a bolt through the center and into the nut welded to the shock tab. This is a Shock joint and it's the next great thing in off-roading. Shocks need to twist and rotate but all shock mounts keep this from happening. With these mounts the shock can twist and rotate as much as it likes with no binding. A note, this was a heck of an engineering exercise and there may still be a bug or two in the plan. Use the highest strength and quality bolts you can get! Hardware store Grade 8 AIN'T going to cut it here!!! We broke a few of those before we found out all Grade 8s are not created equal. If you can find Grade 10 use it! Then you just need to run a 2 1/2" long bolt through the bracket and shock and tighten it up. They are a pain to make, require a lot of maintenance and can break if you don't have everything setup just right but they are awesome and allow a lot more flex. Our testing showed 2"-3" more articulation with these installed.
I remember reading about Shaggy's stuff years ago. Seems like a simple mount to fabricate and might add a bit of flex for those running standard shock ends.
Shock mounts can be of several designs. Shaggy's use 1/4" thick 1 1/2" angle iron cut into 2" piece with a 9/1/6" hole drill in it. A 1/2" nut was then welded to the front of the angle iron over the hole. A 2 1/4" grade 8 bolt and 2 1 1/2" fender washers were used to bolt the shock to the new mount. the mount was then welded to the axle tube just inside of the U bolts. A variation of this would be to weld the bolt head to the angle iron instead of the nut. This makes putting the shocks on a bit easier. Just make sure you weld it up really good. It's amazing how much force these things take.
If you want to get really tricky you can try this! with your shock mounts. It's the Shaggy's mount detailed about with an added feature. Take a 6" long, 1 1/2" wide piece of hot rolled 1/4" steel plate. Drill 1 1/4" hole smack dab in the center and a 1/2" hole in each end, 3/4" from all sides. Bend the piece of steel into a U so that the inside dimension is 1 1/2" and then drill that 1/4" hole out to 3/4". Take some 3/4" .120 wall tube and cut off a 3/4" long piece. Weld that into the center hole of the U shaped piece and slide a bolt through the center and into the nut welded to the shock tab. This is a Shock joint and it's the next great thing in off-roading. Shocks need to twist and rotate but all shock mounts keep this from happening. With these mounts the shock can twist and rotate as much as it likes with no binding. A note, this was a heck of an engineering exercise and there may still be a bug or two in the plan. Use the highest strength and quality bolts you can get! Hardware store Grade 8 AIN'T going to cut it here!!! We broke a few of those before we found out all Grade 8s are not created equal. If you can find Grade 10 use it! Then you just need to run a 2 1/2" long bolt through the bracket and shock and tighten it up. They are a pain to make, require a lot of maintenance and can break if you don't have everything setup just right but they are awesome and allow a lot more flex. Our testing showed 2"-3" more articulation with these installed.
