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Shake down run, seemed to do ok. W/pics

8_YOUR_H2

8_YOUR_H2

1/2 ton status
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Feb 20, 2000
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Rear suspension worked good and was real fun on the trail. Nothing broke much to my suprise but I did end up with a leaky rear hub seal which I fixed with the quickness. My vehicle was mechanically ready to go but not pretty. I had not installed my winch, cleaned up the winch mount (big piece of plate sticking up from the bumper), finished painting, sheet metal front end has not even begun yet...paint, etc etc etc....but this was a chance I couldn't pass up.

A few thoughts on my build..... Chrome diff covers are worthless pieces of **** on the rocks. I peeled mine back on the last day even after I ground it down so it wouldn't catch on anything. I can only assume that a stock cover would do the same thing. Go buy a ruff stuff cover before you wheel.

The 14 bolt pinion yoke guard is by far the biggest joke I have ever seen even more so than a chrome diff cover. It came with my BTF truss and was not pictured or mentioned when I bought it but it is getting cut off before I ever wheel again. This thing is a rock anchor. Worthless, novelty, garbage spend your money elsewhere.

The B52 kit from DIY flexes like crazy, I mean friggin loco flex. My brake lines ended up being limiting straps. Go buy it or make your own because it is beter than any spring you will find.

For my front drive shaft I had a local shop make me one with a 12" slip and used the Tom Woods off set super flex joints. Spent 1/3 as much as a 1350 CV and it worked great. Mad vibrations in 4 hi at about 35 mph though.

Enjoy

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so ur running the b-52s with 52" springs and your shocks are mounted in the stock location? guess i dont need to install f-250 shock towers. Oh and the rig looks sweet
 
2" air shocks? Sway-A-Way? How you liking them? Any weight figures? I want to get rid of the coils on the back of the S10 already(and I haven't even driven it yet!), just curious.
 
I guess my rig weighs 4000-5000 with axles and tires but it is lighter in the rear and I have the 2" SAW's in the rear. In all honesty they worked great and flex out like crazy. As you can see in the pic I used a chain to limit them from unloading on steep decents. I had all the weight on the rear end numerous times with no problems at all. I also used 7/8 - 3/4 heims and they held up fine. This was no BS wheeling either. When we hit moab rim and behind the rocks we wheeled for like 10 hours so they really got the endurance test!

I used 2" lift rough country 52" springs in the front and took out 1/2 of the leaves. The front suspension is roughly 80% down 20% up so the stock location works but the shocks bottom out from time to time.

Edit...the bench seat is a BAD IDEA!!!
 
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Sorry but my the server my club's website is hosted on is having problems today.

Correct, the bench seat does not hold my fat ass in very well. It might be better with the harnesses installed but I doubt it. That and it is really ugly. It's burned from welding splatter, spraypaint overspray...dirt...etc etc.
 
so other than the pinion guard thing, are you content with the truss from BTF? im going to be running that same setup on my 14b soon.

edit: bench seats are badass


also: what size rim are you running and how do you like the 42" iroks?
 
I like the truss for how easy it made mounting the upper links. It welds right next to the differential pumpkin and I doubt it really adds any major strength but It would be great to mount an anti wrap bar to.

My rims are 16" X 10" and the Iroks 42 X 14. I ran 10 psi and the sidewall hardly flexed at all, maybe because they were new...I dunno. I ordered a set of Ruff Stuff DIY beadlock rings and I hope the tires break in. They wheel great and I love them...I just wish I had a beadlock so I could go 5 psi.

I am in the middle of installing an OX locker right now and I hope to have an opinion on that I can share soon as well as on the beadlocks.
 
thanks. so in order to add strength to the BTF truss what would you do? or are you not plannin to beef it up any more? did you use their tabs for the frame to mount the links or did you make something yourself?

originally i was planning to run 42" iroks but now im second guess to get tsl's instead. im on the fence.
 
The truss its self is very strong. It is 1/2" plate I just doubt it would make the 14 bolt any stronger. I promise you that the BTF truss will never bend or break unless you drove the truck off the side of a mountain and then a train hit it. I have no plans on modifying the truss other than cutting off the pinion guard.

I ran TSL's on my old K5 and I think they wear better. If my rig wasn't a trail only vehicle I would run TSL's
 
thanks, yea im going to be running it on the street alot. i had 39.5 iroks and loved the way they rode on the street, but being a softer compound i doubt they last long :(

could you snap some more pics of your 4link setup? are you just using the btf truss/pinion guard or are you using their frame tabs and other stuff?

sorry for playing 50questions *doh*
 
No prob on the 50 questions.

I bought all of my tabs from ruff stuff but had to modify them because I ended up using heims instead of johnny joints. I used a piece of 2X4" .25 wall tube for the crossmember and welded it between the frame rails.

Ill get some better pics this weekend.
 
I think the bench seat looks good in there. Don't see a lot of bench seats in full on tubed out rock crawlers, everyone runs buckets.
 
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