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Shift pattern for NWF doubler?

mtnman210

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I'm looking for the shift pattern for a NWF doubler triple stick setup is. There are no markings on the shifters so I don't know what gear I'm in. Also are there any no-no shifter combinations I should stay away from?
 
Should be basically the same as any of the other brands, save that you've got a little more flexibility as to which does what 'cuz of the cables.

I'd assume the leftmost one is still the '203 range box -- easy to trace the cable -- and the two to the right are the '205. Middle would be the 205's rear output, and right, the front. Depending on how worn your '203 is, you should be able to identify its shifter as it only has two positions (high and low), versus the '205 shifters have three (high - neutral - low.) The lever shifters are low when pushed forward and high when pulled back; I'm thinking the cable ones should be the same.

As to what not to do...

The 205 should keep you from simultaneously shifting the front into high and the rear into low (or vice versa), so you *shouldn't* be able to break anything that way.

To go from high to low on the twin-sticked '205 you have to move one, then the other into N, and then one into low and then the other. (Same applies for low-to-high obviously.)

You have two 2:1 options, high on the '203 and low on the '205, or vice versa. I prefer to leave the '205 in low and use the 203 to shift between 2:1 and 4:1 'cuz it's one shifter to move instead of two.

I think that covers it... heck, I was gonna suggest you call NWF, but I see that the GWN celebrates 'Labour Day' today too :haha:

-- A
 
thanks that helps alot. I just cannot for the life of me get the front to disengage. I'll go back out and give it a shot.
 
The 203 range box has a neutral? :doah:

-- A

Yeah, and they're notorious for slipping into nuetral when you take your foot off the gas. Add a shim under the detent spring and that usually takes care of it though.

My shifters aren't labelled either, and seeing as I haven't hardly driven with mine I'm always forgetting which shifter is for what. I need labels...

Rene
 
17.jpg
 
Yeah, and they're notorious for slipping into nuetral when you take your foot off the gas. Add a shim under the detent spring and that usually takes care of it though.

My shifters aren't labelled either, and seeing as I haven't hardly driven with mine I'm always forgetting which shifter is for what. I need labels...

Rene

You know, I thought it was just *my* range box that popped out halfway :doah:

And KidJethro, that looks familiar :haha: I think I painted mine after you posted that pic and described how you did it. Makes them infinitely easier to read.

wfo-shifter-knobs-1.JPG


-- A
 
mine must be binding somewhere. I can get the 203 in all 3 gears. The middle stick will only go into low and the right will only go into high. I just picked this up last night and it's already been used. So I'm sure it just be stuck somewhere:doah: here's another thing I noticed, since the tunnel is off, In reverse the front shaft doesn't spin but forward it does????? I'm pretty sure that's not suppose to work like that:haha:




by the way those are awesome knobs, I'll definitely have to do something like that once I get everything setup
 
Who built the 205? Sounds like whoever built it didn't do the grinding on the rail correctly.
 
The knobs are, if it's not obvious from the logo, from WFO -- Trevor does good stuff.

http://www.wfoconcepts.com/CustomParts/billet.html

Not cheap, but a little bling here and there can be worthwhile :haha:

The front shaft would turn even if the front output is in neutral, if the hubs are locked.

I swear I've seen the shaft turn even with the hubs unlocked, obviously more slowly than normal, just from the friction at the hubs, which will then turn the shaft. Donno why reverse would be different though, other than the cut of the gears in the diff might have more friction, i.e. resistance to turn, in one direction?

And yeah, your 205 is whacked ... or the shifters are WAAAY out of adjustment, or the rails in the 205 haven't been ground (grinded? =)) for separate front and back operation.

Where'd you get a doubler setup that the seller didn't know to tell you about it?

-- A
 
got em working. Just a little wd40 and there's no sticking anymore.

and like Dremu said. that shaft is moving but it's not turning because it's engaged. When it is engaged there is a big difference visually so all is good. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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