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Shim (or zero-rate) install

Mastiff

Mastiff

1/2 ton status
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I feel like a dumbass having to ask, but I'm in the garage trying to figure this out... I have the frame as high as I can get it with stands, and the axle can go down until the rotors are on the ground and there still won't be enough room between the spring and perch to install the new bolt for the spring pack. Do I need to full disconnect the axle on both sides and rotate it out of the way, or am I totally missing something here?
 
rampage said:
Put some cribbing under your jack stands made out of 2x4s.
Click to expand...

Looks like that's it unless you want to spend a lot or are happy with only 30" of height (12-ton HF's go that high) - or if you are decent at fabbing stuff and have steel available. Found a good thread here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-tools/505062-cheap-tall-jackstands.html

I think I'll build something out of 4x4 a 14" tall (4 layers) and put my 6-ton HF stands on it. That'll get me as high as 37".

If money was no object, I want these:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200318711_200318711
 
Didn't realize you needed to go that high. If you have a couple of strong reliable ratchet straps maybe you could put one on either side of the spring pad and frame to keep the spring compressed before you jacked it up and dropped the axle. But that might get a little scary once you remove the center pin.
 
rampage said:
Didn't realize you needed to go that high. If you have a couple of strong reliable ratchet straps maybe you could put one on either side of the spring pad to keep the spring compressed before you jacked it up and dropped the axle.
Click to expand...

Well, it sounds tall, but the frame is 25" or more off the ground at ride height. I'll need to jack it up more to start to give more room for droop. I won't need all of 37", but I know letting the frame drop to 23" isn't even close. I'm also supporting the frame at the frame/crossmember connection up front and that starts even higher.

I thought about jacking the spring, but I wasn't comfortable with the spring being under that much stress while I pulled the center pin. I want it relaxed as much as possible, even though it'll be c-clamped.
 
I went with cribbing. Needed to disconnect steering and brakes too. I'm not going to go all the way tonight, but I should be able to get there.

20140203_204635.jpg


20140203_204618.jpg
 
Is that axle still bolted in on one side?

p.s. I hope you have some good wheel chocks under those rear wheels.
 
Mastiff said:
I feel like a dumbass having to ask, but I'm in the garage trying to figure this out... I have the frame as high as I can get it with stands, and the axle can go down until the rotors are on the ground and there still won't be enough room between the spring and perch to install the new bolt for the spring pack. Do I need to full disconnect the axle on both sides and rotate it out of the way, or am I totally missing something here?
Click to expand...

Look up pipe stands on CL, I paid $75 for 4 stands from a local Rig Welder. I raised my Blazer high enough to roll the complete axle w/35" tires straight foreword under the bumper.

DSCN3041.JPG
 
Richcz28 said:
Is that axle still bolted in on one side?

p.s. I hope you have some good wheel chocks under those rear wheels.
Click to expand...

Yeah, still bolted. If I loosen it all up the pinion will just drop down on the ground. Might as well completely remove the thing at that point.

Why would the truck roll away when on stands in four places and in gear with the rear wheels on the ground? I may chock them anyway, but doesn't seem critical.
 
You need to unbolt that axle completely and pull it out of the way. Aren't you shimming both sides?

I wouldn't trust my truck not to roll away if I had one end jacked up a ridiculous amount.
 
Richcz28 said:
You need to unbolt that axle completely and pull it out of the way. Aren't you shimming both sides?

I wouldn't trust my truck not to roll away if I had one end jacked up a ridiculous amount.
Click to expand...

I'm shimming all four corners. I just installed these stinking axles, I'd rather not completely uninstall and reinstall them, especially in the rear where I'd have to break the seal on the brakes and go through bleeding hell again.

Anyway, it's not jacked up hardly at all. It's maybe 1-2" above stock ride height and held there with stands while I cycle the axle. I'll see tonight if I can make the space I need one side at a time.
 
Blazer addict said:
Look up pipe stands on CL, I paid $75 for 4 stands from a local Rig Welder. I raised my Blazer high enough to roll the complete axle w/35" tires straight foreword under the bumper.
Click to expand...

Looks good. I looked up Ridgid pipe stands because everyone kept mentioning it on pirate. Thing is they are rated pretty low in weight, maybe a ton or something. Scared me for holding the front end. Yours look a bit stouter.
 
Mastiff said:
Looks good. I looked up Ridgid pipe stands because everyone kept mentioning it on pirate. Thing is they are rated pretty low in weight, maybe a ton or something. Scared me for holding the front end. Yours look a bit stouter.
Click to expand...

They are rated at 1 ton, but I have the 2 shorter stands just behind the shackles of the front springs then 2 more at the front bumper total of 4 ton capacity.

If you're doing all 4 wheels off the ground then place 2 of them just behind the front springs and 2 just in front of the rear springs. or all 4 at the bumpers.
 
Well, got the front shims in, but the u-bolt plate doesn't fit over the center pin on the D60 cast side since it's slightly offset now. What's the standard solution, grind material away, or buy new plates?
 
Mastiff said:
Well, got the front shims in, but the u-bolt plate doesn't fit over the center pin on the D60 cast side since it's slightly offset now. What's the standard solution, grind material away, or buy new plates?
Click to expand...


Grind
 
Mastiff said:
Well, got the front shims in, but the u-bolt plate doesn't fit over the center pin on the D60 cast side since it's slightly offset now. What's the standard solution, grind material away, or buy new plates?
Click to expand...


Either way. If you can turn the Divot in the bottom of the plate in to a slotted divot, run it.
 
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