We are totally restoring a 84 k20 this year and have it all stripped down to the frame and engine right now, taking off the engine soon, my question is this what is the best way to stripe and clean a rusty frame, sand blast? acid dip? or what and what is the best thing to do to it so it will most likely never rust again or for a long time anyway, we dont want it rusting out in a few years in this northern michigan winters, so should we line x it or will that through things off or powder coat or any really strong ideas, let me know thanks guys
CK5
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Shiney frame resto
- Thread starter TC4x4
- Start date
cegusman
3/4 ton status
I would get it sand blasted and powder coated.
fortcollinsram
1/2 ton status
I am restoring a 1971 C10 pickup right now and for the frame and most of the suspension parts and driveline parts that I am reusing, I am blasting them with Aluminum Oxide (it is nice when the guy you share a shop with has a full-tilt abrasive blasting setup and recover system) which leaves a texture that is about ~80. I am then going to coat everything that was blasted with an Etching Filler primer (I am using Martin Senour stuff b/c I get it CHEAP) after 2 good coats of the Martin Senour Crossfire Etching Filler, I an top coating it with a Martin Senour Single Stage Urethane black paint...
The etching filler is only like $15 a QT retail and is reduced 1:1 with the etching reducer taht is like $25 a gal... The reducer has acid in it that will etch the bare metal and, in the even that a chip goes all the way to bare metal, the etched metal won't begin to rust underneath the unchipped paint (as was common on GM of this era anyhow)
It is more work but in the end its WAY cheaper than power coating...at least for me...you can repair it WAY easier than a chip in powder coat...
just my $.02
The etching filler is only like $15 a QT retail and is reduced 1:1 with the etching reducer taht is like $25 a gal... The reducer has acid in it that will etch the bare metal and, in the even that a chip goes all the way to bare metal, the etched metal won't begin to rust underneath the unchipped paint (as was common on GM of this era anyhow)
It is more work but in the end its WAY cheaper than power coating...at least for me...you can repair it WAY easier than a chip in powder coat...
just my $.02
I sand blasted my entire frame, and then coated with Dupont Colorar (primer), and then Dupont Imron. Imron is used on Aircraft and OTR trucks. Good stuff. Nasty to spray though...
W7NB
1/2 ton status
Dip it and paint it with Pour 15. They make a matte paint specifically for frames. Sandblasting is great, but it does not get into all the areas between the cross members and the frame and under the frame rivets. When I restored my 63 C10 I hade rust develop under the front cross member and the powder coating came off in a chunk after 3 years. Now if you willing to completely break the frame down (grind off the rivets and take it down to the components) I don't think you can beat the powder coating!
paint is better...
I dont like powder coating,as far as rust protection goes..I recently had to sandblast a lexan plow, that had a steel powdercoated frame,and there was not one scrap of it still adhereing to the metal!...salt evidently got under it,and lifted it off like brittle plastic wrap,and the plow's framework was badly corroded and pitted..not the first thing I've seen powder coated that didn't last around here either!..for what it costs to have done,I'd say it should be warranted for life!..
I've had good results with POR-15,and plain old Rustoleum--Imron is bullet proof,but can kill ya if you snort any fumes!..even asphalt based "chassis black" I used made by R-M worked well for about 5 years..
I'd not expect ANY coating or paint to last any longer in salty climates,perhaps Rhino-Liner or similar stuff might,but I've seen that peel off in a few years too...unless you OIL the undercarriage yearly here,you can bet it will be rotted in 5 years, no matter what you use for protection...
I dont like powder coating,as far as rust protection goes..I recently had to sandblast a lexan plow, that had a steel powdercoated frame,and there was not one scrap of it still adhereing to the metal!...salt evidently got under it,and lifted it off like brittle plastic wrap,and the plow's framework was badly corroded and pitted..not the first thing I've seen powder coated that didn't last around here either!..for what it costs to have done,I'd say it should be warranted for life!..
I've had good results with POR-15,and plain old Rustoleum--Imron is bullet proof,but can kill ya if you snort any fumes!..even asphalt based "chassis black" I used made by R-M worked well for about 5 years..
I'd not expect ANY coating or paint to last any longer in salty climates,perhaps Rhino-Liner or similar stuff might,but I've seen that peel off in a few years too...unless you OIL the undercarriage yearly here,you can bet it will be rotted in 5 years, no matter what you use for protection...
diesel4me said:unless you OIL the undercarriage yearly here,you can bet it will be rotted in 5 years, no matter what you use for protection...
My C10 has a slightly leaky tranny output seal.
Works great for the perfectly adjusted undercarriage oil mist. Just top off the 80w90 in there every other oil change (manual tranny), and she's good to go!
Well oiled machine!...
I hear ya...Every GM truck I've owned had ONE rust free spot--the area driectly above and behind the transfer case rear output shaft!--every one leaked,and slung gear lube on the cab floor ,it was the only spot NO rust formed whatsoever!...I usually spray drain oil on my chassis and undercarriage yearly,but have neglected to do so for a few years,now I'm wishing I did..my truck is all scaly and rusty everywhere already..
once you let it get ahead of you,your all done..
My 79 C10 was in practically rust free shape, thanks to its 250 six peuking oil out of the valve cover and breather all its life!--It coated the underside of the cab and inner fenders,much of the frame too!..I left the sludge and grease right on everything when I put a 305 in it..yeah,it would have looked nice all cleaned up--but it would rot away in record time if I had!..I dont mind the messy working conditions on an "oiled" truck--at least it will BE there to work on much longer!..
I hear ya...Every GM truck I've owned had ONE rust free spot--the area driectly above and behind the transfer case rear output shaft!--every one leaked,and slung gear lube on the cab floor ,it was the only spot NO rust formed whatsoever!...I usually spray drain oil on my chassis and undercarriage yearly,but have neglected to do so for a few years,now I'm wishing I did..my truck is all scaly and rusty everywhere already..
once you let it get ahead of you,your all done.. My 79 C10 was in practically rust free shape, thanks to its 250 six peuking oil out of the valve cover and breather all its life!--It coated the underside of the cab and inner fenders,much of the frame too!..I left the sludge and grease right on everything when I put a 305 in it..yeah,it would have looked nice all cleaned up--but it would rot away in record time if I had!..I dont mind the messy working conditions on an "oiled" truck--at least it will BE there to work on much longer!..
BlaKK54Speed
1/2 ton status
i think the best thing you could do would be to acid dip it, that takes off everything!!! then i would por 15 it. i restored a 65 mustang fastback with my dad and every part we cleaned we por 15ed. that stuff is amazing. i have proof that it is worth it. (story)
