What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Shock Mount Job Blues - Any suggestions?

B

beefcake83

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 24, 2000
Posts
240
Reaction score
1
Location
Alaska
Well, I've put this dreaded job off for too long, and this weekend decided I needed to get it done. (Wollered out holes) Besides, riding around with no rear shocks is no fun. I started on the driver's side first, since it uses a bracket. I removed the factory bracket by cutting off the factory rivots with a air-chisel to prevent sparks. I was able to get the bracket off and get the front two rivots out of the frame rail, but the rear two are still in the frame. I need to find a way to get them out. The fuel tank is in my way, and if I can help it, I'd like to avoid dropping it if I can. The 3" body lift proved to make the job alot easier (probably the only plus for having it). So I have 3-5" of clearance between the frame and cab, but it isn't enough space for a 90 degree drill. The rear rivots are flush with the frame top. Any one have a suggestion? Can't wait to tackle the passenger side hole in the frame itself... Joy. - Gary

Gary Graham
'83 GMC Jimmy 350 'Beefcake'
Eielson AFB, Alaska
Metallica & Mountain Dew
http://community.webshots.com/user/beefcake83
 
Both my rear shock mounts on mine were trashed .For the drivers side one rather than pull the bracket for repair, I dropped the tank and welded a 3/16 thick washer with corect size hole to the bracket cuz the hole in my bracket wuz way boogered.Thepassenger side mount hole was like a hole inside of a hole.It was broken out of the frame,you could put you finger in the hole and move it around in the frame.For that one I ground a v in all the cracks,welded them up, and then welded a 3/16 washer over the hole to stregnthen the area around the hole.I dont jump it but play on the rocks and in the mud some times and the repair has held up.

All work and no beer makes Frizz a dull boy
 
Tank drop - floor jack with big wooden frame or board and blocks. If you are doing it by yourself, spend some time and build a good wooden cradle.
Loosen straps at bumper - place jack and cradle under tank and take up the weight of the tank.
Remove straps.
Lower tank an inch or two.
Crawl up between diff and tank to access all fittings (filler hose and vent, fuel line, and other stuff if I forgot)
I am assuming you have mecahnical fuel pump so you will not have electrical connections.....
When you think you have everything disconnected, lower 1or 2 more inches SLOWLY and then double check for missed connections.
You should inquire to others with this year on replacing sending unit or any other common failure parts before you start. I dont know if there are any problems or gothcas on your year - mine is a 91 and I pulled the tank for the fuel pump.
Dave
 
Hey thanks Dave - Sounds like the norm.... Good point on maybe looking at the sender while the thing is out. My gauge seems to be dead on at the moment, but if it's not too spendy, I may as well given the chance. Thanks again. - Gary

Gary Graham
'83 GMC Jimmy 350 'Beefcake'
Eielson AFB, Alaska
Metallica & Mountain Dew
http://community.webshots.com/user/beefcake83
 
The first place to look if your guage doesn't work is the ground wire to the sender...that is usally the culprit.

Dropping the tank is no big deal. I ran a thread chaser down the ends of the tank straps so i wouldn't have to fight rusted threads the whole way. Use lots of PB blaster or another good penetrant and they shouldn't break.

Rene

My ass is numb...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom