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Shock positioning

wasted wages

wasted wages

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Just installed one of DIY shock inbording kit on my rear 14 bolt...

how much shock angle ( if any ) should I set the shocks at ?

Right now,, I have them angled in at the first set of holes(center) in the upper mount, and the rig feels very loose ( lots of body roll )

This is a trail only rig with a shackle flip on the rear.... is having a lot of roll good for articulation ? I have not had the rig out on the trail since I finished my doubler,,but it looks like I will be making a trail run in late October....:D

I just kinda need a starting point for the shock angle.....:dunno:
 
i know the more vertical you make the shocks the more effective the dampening effect. actually i bet if you moved them into a /\ position i'd bet your body roll would get worse.
 
i bet if you moved them into a /\ position i'd bet your body roll would get worse.


/\ <---- This is the position they are in now.....I need to know how far to move them out as a starting point .... halfway ? 1 hole in from the outer ends ??

I'm sure many people have installed Kurt's kit... just looking for some feedback as to where people ended up at with theirs...
 
In all reality the best way for shocks to be mounted are canted inward just slightly.

In 4x4 reality, the answer is as much as needed as little as possible.

Mount them so you don't run out of travel but just barely.
 
Depends on the valving of your shocks. If you have really stiff shocks you could mount them all the way to the center and then they'd feel softer (i.e. less effective as someone mentioned). You'd also get more travel too. If your shocks are soft then you need to mount them more vertical. Trial and error will be your best bet, but I'd start by putting them in the middle position and adjust to your liking.
 
RTI ramp or something similar. See just how much travel you have and adjust shocks accordingly. Really the only way to do it right.
 
Does anyone know the angle of the backslash-forward slash configuration?

I agree with the Eric, mount them so they have just enough travel, but barely. This will give you the most damping without limiting travel.

Also, keep in mind, the more shock angle might work better one way but worse in a different application. If the suspension is traveling straight up and down, vertical is the most effective(although no suspension travels straight up and down, they are usually on an arc of some sort). Where in the arc it's perpendicular to the arc center is when it will be most effective. It's probably best to have it perpendicular close to ride height, or closer to full bump depending on what you want.

Also, if you are looking solely at body lean or articulation, then tilted in at the top might be better. It depends on your suspension pivot point and where the shocks travel the most for the same articulation. If you pivot them in at the bottom they will probably become nearly inneffective at controlling during articulation as they may not even travel at all during articulation. Every setup can be different.
 
Shocks will Idealy be installed as close to the tire as possible and as heath said vertical perpendicular to the arc of travel. Since the arc of travel changes with articulation and travel you have to pick a point to install the shock perpendicular to.

Shocks in boarded and mounted at sharp angles just don't really have much shock effect. Or you have to put really stiff shocks on to make them work. Ideal mounting for shocks isn't just a simple kit purchase and install some random shocks, For the most effective shock usage the mounts are setup for any given shocks collapsed and extended length.

Stand them up until they limit travel and then see how you like it. If it needs more shock then you will need stiffer shocks. If it is too stiff lay them in one hole and see what it feels like. IMO they need to be stood up outside the frame rails near vertical.
 
Ideal mounting for shocks isn't just a simple kit purchase and install some random shocks,
Click to expand...

Yeah... I'm finding this out..... now...:whistle:
The shocks are no big deal as they were the ones I originally had prior to buying the inboarding kit...if I need stiffer ones, then so be it..

The original shocks showed signs of contact with the u bolts plate when they were in the stock location so that's why I went to the inboard kit...

I'll stand them up on the outside holes and lift a wheel with a forklift over the weekend and see how the travel looks....

Thanks for all your help !!!!
 
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