Simple radiator stuff

[Mastiff]

My radiator has sprung a small leak. I can see the wetness on the inside on the fins. It's not coming from any fitting, or the cap, or anyplace where hoses attach. This is the original 1983 radiator. The truck is virtually rust free and low miles for its age. Any ideas on what would cause it to suddenly leak? I'm trying to decide if I should throw some Barr's in there or replace the whole thing.

Also, any opinions on radiators? Plastic/aluminum vs. copper/brass?

 

[Jessie James]

Personally I am a big fan of Alumaseal. It's a small tube of aluminum dust which you pour into the radiator and has fixed every issue I've had. It's also not as "goopy" as Barr's Leak either, which I think is a good thing in terms of clogging things up too much.

 

[K85 Octane]

throw some stop leak in it and see how it holds up
otherwise it's an old radiator, could have gone out on you a lot longer ago, regardless of miles. Could have had a rock come up and do it too.
Replace it with whatever you can afford. Full aluminum lasts longer than that plastic/aluminum, and can be fixed. Copper/brass is strongest I would think and can also be fixed, but doesn't cool as well as aluminum.
I bought a 4 row pretty cheap with plastic tanks, have only a couple hundred miles on it, curious how long it will last on a weekend warrior.

 

[jeff in co]

I don't know about pin-hole leaks but I picked up a all new, copper radiator at Advanced Auto. Guy said he didn't even think the all copper was available anymore.....

 

[4xcrazy]

I don't know about pin-hole leaks but I picked up a all new, copper radiator at Advanced Auto. Guy said he didn't even think the all copper was available anymore.....

I was told by the delivery guy for the 1-800-radiator when i had to replace the 1st replacement plastic tanked unit, that you can still order the all metal units, but they are quite abit higher in price. The original sales guy behind the counter didn't inform me of this, when i first bought the radiator from them, in store, it was an all metal unit, a few years back. Replaced it early last year, it was plastic and the counter guy said that is what they are going to, no more metal ones. This plastic one lasted about 8 months, and thus the delivery guy bringing me a new one while i was in Indiana.

Also, the new plastic tank replacement the driver brought me was a bit more stout as far as the tank material, didn't seem as thin as the first one, he informed me, this was the original OEM replacement directly from GM.

I bought from them only because of the lifetime warranty, yes i will have to do the labor from time to time, but i really don't want to keep spending $100's on replacement radiators through the years that i own this truck

 

[imiceman44]

Personally I am a big fan of Alumaseal. It's a small tube of aluminum dust which you pour into the radiator and has fixed every issue I've had. It's also not as "goopy" as Barr's Leak either, which I think is a good thing in terms of clogging things up too much.

I second the alumaseal

 

[NorCal_Chris]

get a torch, some silver solder and some water soluable flux and fix it right up.

 

[swettysblazer]

BArs Leaks is good in small amounts. Put in too much and you'll overheat. Also, if it is a copper/brass rad that you have, any radiator shop should be able to recore your radiator. They take the tanks off and put them on a new core. Probably the best way to go.

 

[diesel4me]

I second the alumaseal

Make that 3 of us who use & trust Aluma-Seal !...I've used it for decades and it always works,doesn't clog the heater core or radiator,and I keep a tube of it in my truck "just in case" ,seeing it has the OEM radiator and its almost 30 years old...I've been told by a friend he's used some "Copper-Seal" stuff thats the same thing as Aluma-Seal only copper in color,and it seems to work just as good too...

I dont like or reccomend Bars-Leaks liquid,looks like rabbit turds in a bottle of maple syrup.it clogs things...their "cookies" aren't as bad,those cakes you drop in the radiator are often used in brand new cars--Porter-Seal is the crudest stuff out there,its practically gauranteed to clog things,its not much different than portland cement--its made from ground up feldspar,a mineral not unlike cement --it was great for bullet holes in WWII trucks,but not so hot in todays vehicles...I'm surprised they haven't gone out of bussuiness--maybe plumbers and HVAC guys using it for boilers and furnaces are whats keeping them in bussiness..

 

[4xcrazy]

That Barsleaks stuff is trash. I just assisted Pauly in removing an engine not long ago from a truck he's using for his truggy project, it had a couple of leaky freeze plugs. We removed the ones that were leaking, and found a TON of that Barsleaks crap settled in the block, so we opted to remove all of them, It took quite awhile with the hose running water through the block and fingers, and whatever else we could get in the freeze plug holes to remove all that tar crap it's made out of.

I personally wouldn't ever use that stuff even in small amounts.

I know the poster mentioning it said in small amounts, but i still wouldn't use it.

I have heard good results from the Alumiseal stuff, but again, it's just a band-aid/ time-buyer.

 

[pblaze725]

Remember that whatever you dump into the radiator to stop the leak will cycle through your water pump & thermostat. I have found a few thermostats stuck due to stop leak jambing up the springs, Once I worked on a water pump clogged with a big cork made of "stop leak" stuff. It works good to get you off the trail but in the long run it ruins the other adjacent parts.
I recommend replacing the radiator (avoid the Chinese ones)or take it to the radiator pro's. You may find the radiator repair guy to be affordable, especially when compared to replacing the water pump & thermostat that are stuck due to stop leak.