Is anyone interested in me doing a short writeup (ok, basically its just part numbers lol, although I could do another anti-climactic video of the gauge showing 30PSI then hopefully 40 when I use the right sender) on reducing the number of components underhood?
I figured out the 3 wire Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS), which is only applicable to EFI folks as I see it. For the EFI rigs, this eliminates one of the two sensor/sender locations, either the one in the head, or the intake. I believe this one is not a super accurate swap, as far as I could tell the resistance profile of the sensor isn't quite the same as it is with the stock coolant temp sender. So your gauge and/or ECM may see slightly different temps than is actual. But from what I've seen with my gauge before/after it's pretty darn close. I don't use the gauges as an absolute anyways, just an indicator for things changing.
Oil pressure sender/switch is a bit more complicated. The R/V trucks DID use a three wire sender/switch that I was unaware of until recently. Other GM products did as well, but unfortunately as I found out, after wondering why my 50PSI oil pump is only indicating ~30PSI, most of those other applications use 40PSI as the "normal" (middle indication on the gauge) pressure, where our gauges (except diesels) use 30PSI as the middle. I believe this switch/sender combo will work for the folks that are still carbed with electric chokes, and of course the EFI rigs. The fun thing with this one is that it should give you the option to run the 80PSI diesel gauge, depending which sender/switch you buy. Also depends on what your definition of fun is. I don't know as I have an 80PSI gauge laying around anymore, but I do plan on swapping to the "right" (R/V 60PSI) unit this weekend, and thus expect my oil pressure to show a difference of 10PSI.
The coolant temp unit i use is NPT (apparently at some point GM went metric on the threads), as is the oil pressure unit, however the only issue with the oil unit is that the threads are 1/4"(? larger than the stock oil pressure sending unit that looks like a bell) so you either need to run an adapter, or run an extension/adapter to fit it in the tap above the oil filter. I *think* big blocks would be a "bolt in" replacement as they have more clearance at that spot? Even though these units are much smaller diameter than the original oil pressure sender, there is not enough clearance with the block on the SBC to thread them in directly at the oil filter location.
I figured out the 3 wire Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS), which is only applicable to EFI folks as I see it. For the EFI rigs, this eliminates one of the two sensor/sender locations, either the one in the head, or the intake. I believe this one is not a super accurate swap, as far as I could tell the resistance profile of the sensor isn't quite the same as it is with the stock coolant temp sender. So your gauge and/or ECM may see slightly different temps than is actual. But from what I've seen with my gauge before/after it's pretty darn close. I don't use the gauges as an absolute anyways, just an indicator for things changing.
Oil pressure sender/switch is a bit more complicated. The R/V trucks DID use a three wire sender/switch that I was unaware of until recently. Other GM products did as well, but unfortunately as I found out, after wondering why my 50PSI oil pump is only indicating ~30PSI, most of those other applications use 40PSI as the "normal" (middle indication on the gauge) pressure, where our gauges (except diesels) use 30PSI as the middle. I believe this switch/sender combo will work for the folks that are still carbed with electric chokes, and of course the EFI rigs. The fun thing with this one is that it should give you the option to run the 80PSI diesel gauge, depending which sender/switch you buy. Also depends on what your definition of fun is. I don't know as I have an 80PSI gauge laying around anymore, but I do plan on swapping to the "right" (R/V 60PSI) unit this weekend, and thus expect my oil pressure to show a difference of 10PSI.
The coolant temp unit i use is NPT (apparently at some point GM went metric on the threads), as is the oil pressure unit, however the only issue with the oil unit is that the threads are 1/4"(? larger than the stock oil pressure sending unit that looks like a bell) so you either need to run an adapter, or run an extension/adapter to fit it in the tap above the oil filter. I *think* big blocks would be a "bolt in" replacement as they have more clearance at that spot? Even though these units are much smaller diameter than the original oil pressure sender, there is not enough clearance with the block on the SBC to thread them in directly at the oil filter location.
