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Six steps to increase cam durability

76zimmer

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I just got my new cam from Comp Cams....they are reporting most flat tappet cam manufacturers are showing lobe failures. Mostly because of the oils being used today.
They suggest using only high quality lifters, by reputable manufacturers. Most Imported lifters are inferior castings, and do not provide the durability of Comp Cams US built lifters.
They also recommend the use of high ZDDP content oil for breakin, and regular operation. These would be found in off road/racing oils. These oils carry the SL rating, and should contain up to 1000ppm of Zinc/Phosphorous.
The Comp Cams breakin additive, provides the critical engine startup protection required for new cams/lifters. In addition it also provides the protection for regular use as an additive for long term use. This is the best insurance policy for your new flat tappet camshaft and lifters.
Always remove the inner spring for breakin procedure on a new camshaft, in addition low ratio rocker arms could also be used.
Of course proper breakin technique should be followed:
As soon as the engine fires, bring up the rpm to 2000-2500 for the first 30 minutes of operation. Slower engine speeds will not supply the camshaft with an adequate amount of oil for the breakin period. The engine rpm may be varied periodically from 2000-2500 rpm to direct oil splash to different areas of the camshaft. After the 30 minute break in period, change the oil and filter again, to be sure all contaminants and breakin lube are removed from the engine. The inner valve springs should be reinstalled and the correct rocker arms installed.

Six steps to increased flat tappet cam durability:

1) Double check your camshaft and lifter setup prior to breakin. Use an ample amount of the supplied assembly lube on all lobes, distributor gear, and the bottom face of each lifter.

2) Use flat tappet lifters with cam face oiling provisions. ALWAYS avoid cheap generic lifters

3) Use a lifter bore grooving tool to increase oiling.

4) Nitride treat your new cam to increase the case hardness and lobe surface lubricity.

5) Use high lubricity, high ZDDP content oils to help during breakin, and always use cam breakin lube.

6) Always remove inner valve springs from a dual spring setup, and use lower ratio rocker arms for the breakin period.


Most of this information was taken from my Comp Cams bulletin from my new camshaft.

My heads have the inner spring removed from the dual spring setup, and the lifters I'm using are Engine Pro oriface drilled lobe oiling solid lifters.
We will install the inner springs after the initial breakin.
 
I have a solid comp cam (515 lift) in my 1974 358, I think if i remember right i have the same style lifters and was told to use em. Also used comp roller 1.6 rockers and a set of angle plug bowtie heads with 2.055 valves. I used alot of comp cams break in lube and oil when i broke it in. I built a stand out of angle iron , 3/8 plate bolted to the floor and added a 4 core radiator and a gas can, ran my headers and exhaust thru the garage door. Ran it out of the truck and adjusted the valves before installing it in the truck. I ran it for 20 min at temp, changed the valve springs(added inner springs) and ran it for 20 more min up to temp. I think both times i ran the rpms at a constant 2500. I also was using vr1 valvoline 20w50 with lucas zinc additive, now i have royal purple 20w50 with zinc additive. I bought the zinc additive from my local engine shop, cant remember the brand tho, always wix filters. I changed the oil before putting it in the truck and then again at 500 miles.
 
Given the availability of good hyd and solid roller cams I wonder why people are still running flat tappet cams at all. Except perhaps for restoration or nostalgia.
 
Given the availability of good hyd and solid roller cams I wonder why people are still running flat tappet cams at all. Except perhaps for restoration or nostalgia.

This is price driven, I'm sure. I know it was for me. If I could afford to convert all my flat tappet stuff to roller, I would.

I only run Brad Penn oil in my stuff. So far I have had no issues.
 
Having recently installed an Edelbrock tbi cam in my 89K5 we used a ton of assembly lube and soaked the lifters in new oil too. Edelbrock had special instructions on using oil additive and listed a gm part number for engine oil additive to help during break in period. I have a few bottles out in the garage ill look for the name and part number.
 
It cost me 120 for my Comp Cam, and 125 for the Engine Pro lifters.

How much to retro fit a non roller block to a solid roller setup?

Well you got the cam and lifters, right there is 500$.
How about springs, retainers, pushrods, thrust button, and retainer plate, any other valve train needs?
Distributor drive gear needs to be changed too I believe.
I can see $1000 easily to upgrade a non roller block to a roller.

I spent more on other parts to upgrade them as well, which I suppose could have been spent on roller cam parts. But Still I can see it being double to do a roller over a flat tappet.

What say Scott?
 
This is price driven, I'm sure. I know it was for me. If I could afford to convert all my flat tappet stuff to roller, I would.

I only run Brad Penn oil in my stuff. So far I have had no issues.


I recently rebuilt the engine in my Vette, and the cam I put in (solid flat tappet) had a max of .003 wear on the lobes. This is comparing to the cam card that came with it. It is a Crane Cam made in 1993. It has maybe 2500 miles on it. 2000 of them hard miles. I ran Valvoline oils up til about year 2000, then went to Mobil 1 15w40. I did a proper break in (as listed above).
 
When i did my motor 3 years ago the comp cam was 110.00 and the lifters were 95.00. Although i bought a used set of bowtie heads for 400.00 and had them redone, I have now stainless valves, titanium retainers, bronze guides, port and polished , heads were done with 2.055 instead of 2.02s the works was 400.00, comes to an 800.00 set of heads. I coudnt see changing it to a full roller, yea reliability but my motor runs strong and awesome. when you can roll in 2nd gear at 35mph and stand on it and have it sideways on 39s thats good enuff for me...lol
 
When i did my motor 3 years ago the comp cam was 110.00 and the lifters were 95.00. Although i bought a used set of bowtie heads for 400.00 and had them redone, I have now stainless valves, titanium retainers, bronze guides, port and polished , heads were done with 2.055 instead of 2.02s the works was 400.00, comes to an 800.00 set of heads. I coudnt see changing it to a full roller, yea reliability but my motor runs strong and awesome. when you can roll in 2nd gear at 35mph and stand on it and have it sideways on 39s thats good enuff for me...lol
:eek1::eek1::eek1:
 

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