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Skyjacker CA50 dropped pitman arm splines and crossbolt?

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Ned Kelly

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I just got a Skyjacker CA50 dropped pitman arm like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SJA-CA50/

For those who have one also ....
Did yours come with the crossbolt or did you have to get your own?
Also, was only the front 1/4 of the pitman arm splined? I was expecting that nearly the whole inside of the pitman arm was to be splined, not just 25% of it. Is this correct?
 
If you're using the same stock type steering, its the correct arm if you want to lower the drag link slightly.

If you wanted crossover steering, you got the wrong arm.

The splines on the arm in the link are correct for that type of steering also. And no, Skyjacker never supplies a bolt with those arms.

On a lighter note: make sure you use a torque wrench on the bolt/nut and do it 10 ft.lbs. more than the recommended rate.
I had this same arm on my K30 once and hit a curb on icy streets one day and the impact sheared the splines in the arm. I sent it back to try and get a new one and Skyjacker said I didn't torque it tight enough. I told them bullshiit and they said I still need to buy a new one if I wanted one. I had to have it so I paid for one. Second time around I torqued the nut tighter than their recommendation.

Makes me wonder how they know how tight I got it. I call b.s. on them for not backing up their product.
 
yep 4x4 arm there. i have run a few of them. like them over dana 60 block spacers.

but if i am doing a big truck crossover is best.
 
I hope to do crossover eventually, but for now will go this route. I'll make sure to torque it down alittle more than the 175ft/lbs they quote. Just out of curiousity, isn't a factory pitman arm splined nearly the entire 360 degrees?
 
Nope. Factory arm is identical to the Skyjacker arm, just without the drop.
 
Ok good to know of the splines - I did see some arm that had nearly the entire inside splined - can't recall what application it was for. Thanks guys.
 
thatK30guy said:
If you're using the same stock type steering, its the correct arm if you want to lower the drag link slightly.

If you wanted crossover steering, you got the wrong arm.

The splines on the arm in the link are correct for that type of steering also. And no, Skyjacker never supplies a bolt with those arms.

On a lighter note: make sure you use a torque wrench on the bolt/nut and do it 10 ft.lbs. more than the recommended rate.
I had this same arm on my K30 once and hit a curb on icy streets one day and the impact sheared the splines in the arm. I sent it back to try and get a new one and Skyjacker said I didn't torque it tight enough. I told them bullshiit and they said I still need to buy a new one if I wanted one. I had to have it so I paid for one. Second time around I torqued the nut tighter than their recommendation.

Makes me wonder how they know how tight I got it. I call b.s. on them for not backing up their product.
Click to expand...

x2
My CA50 did the same. I did some pics here but couldn't find them. Retorquing seems to be pretty important for this aftermarket part to say the least. I installed my original GM non drop arm after that and retorqued it 1 time. No problems ever since.

Walter
 
My bet is the material Skyjacker uses isn't quite as strong or good as the stock GM arm. Either that or GM knows something that Skyjacker hasn't been able to figure out yet.
 
Ned Kelly said:
I hope to do crossover eventually, but for now will go this route. I'll make sure to torque it down alittle more than the 175ft/lbs they quote. Just out of curiousity, isn't a factory pitman arm splined nearly the entire 360 degrees?
Click to expand...

anyone know TQ spec for the factory pitnam setup?...is it 175ft lbs too?
 
88jimmy4x4 said:
I was just curious since you reuse the factory bolt, hope its rated for that much TQ
Click to expand...
Its grade 8 so it will hold up just fine.

On future upgrades, I plan to get new grade 8 flange bolts and nuts to replace the factory ones. Doing so will eliminate the washer and therefore both the bolt and nut will have a wider contact pattern with the flanges.
 
thatK30guy said:
Its grade 8 so it will hold up just fine.

On future upgrades, I plan to get new grade 8 flange bolts and nuts to replace the factory ones. Doing so will eliminate the washer and therefore both the bolt and nut will have a wider contact pattern with the flanges.
Click to expand...

Thats good advice, wish I would have done this for the leaf/shock bolts. I really dont like those pinch nuts at all
 
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