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Wanted Slide In Camper - Blazer

metalneverdies

metalneverdies

1/2 ton status
 Premium
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Nov 6, 2011
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Location
oklahoma
I know this is a long shot, but I am looking for a FWC style slide in camper for my Blazer.

Willing to drive from Oklahoma to pickup the camper. Distance depends condition of the camper.

I am more worried about structural condition than if it is completely original or not. Price is negotiable but hoping to find a good one for around 5K or less.

Please let me know if you have any leads! I plan to post on WandertheWest also.
 
One just went off craigslist in Seattle a couple days ago. Another one a couple of weeks ago in Cheyanne. Keep this in mind, not all will split them up and you need to be prepared to buy the whole package even if you don't need another blazer.
 
metalneverdies said:
I know this is a long shot, but I am looking for a FWC style slide in camper for my Blazer.

Willing to drive from Oklahoma to pickup the camper. Distance depends condition of the camper.

I am more worried about structural condition than if it is completely original or not. Price is negotiable but hoping to find a good one for around 5K or less.

Please let me know if you have any leads! I plan to post on WandertheWest also.
Click to expand...
metalneverdies said:
I know this is a long shot, but I am looking for a FWC style slide in camper for my Blazer.

Willing to drive from Oklahoma to pickup the camper. Distance depends condition of the camper.

I am more worried about structural condition than if it is completely original or not. Price is negotiable but hoping to find a good one for around 5K or less.

Please let me know if you have any leads! I plan to post on WandertheWest also.
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Heres one on Seattle craigslist. Just the camper for sale now

Screenshot_20200820-203231_Chrome.jpg
 
Keep in mind when trying to move one of these campers without the Blazer. Due to the back wall, you can't just set it down on a flatbed trailer. You have to get creative if you are going to transport it on a trailer.

$2000 is a little on the high side considering what's needed on it.
 
That is actually the camper I am going to pick up.

I figured 2K was a little bit high but as far as I can tell the structure it self is pretty solid. Need to completely replace lifting setup and I am going to just patch the pop-up portion so we can use it a few times to see what we like and want to change before we start modifying / fixing too much.

Guy could have been blowing smoke but it took a bit to get a hold of him and he said several people were interested. Due to that I didn't want to miss out on it so I didn't negotiate with him. If I get there and it's not in the shape he said after talking with him then hopefully he will be reasonable.

What is considered a fair price? Market is kind of hard to follow on these. I figured even if it's only really worth 1300-1500, I won't be too upset due to rarity. Locally even garbage condition regular slide in campers sit on marketplace and CL listed for 1500-2000 all the time.

Zoomad75, I am 87K5 on WandertheWest who asked the lift and bed questions
 
$2000 isn't horrible. But I know how it goes with the "I've got other people coming to look at it" speech. These things come up so infrequently you have to be able to jump when they come up. Even more so if the guy is willing to split the camper from the Blazer.

You could flip it quick and make a few even at the price you paid for it.

Replacement of the front lift panel is actually pretty easy if you use conduit. I think it works better too. Might cost $40 or less in supplies.

The pics of that one really don't show the condition of the front wall or cab over wood. Those are the problem areas. Given the front lift panel is gone I'd suspect it had a leak. The lift panel would swell when wet and delaminate. Mine was. So the particle board in the cab over and front wall were most likely exposed to moisture too. I would not mount it on a Blazer until that is fixed as it is much easier to do off the truck. It's not that hard to do, but it is time consuming.

How far do you have to haul it from seattle to get home?
 
ZooMad75 said:
$2000 isn't horrible. But I know how it goes with the "I've got other people coming to look at it" speech. These things come up so infrequently you have to be able to jump when they come up. Even more so if the guy is willing to split the camper from the Blazer.

You could flip it quick and make a few even at the price you paid for it.

Replacement of the front lift panel is actually pretty easy if you use conduit. I think it works better too. Might cost $40 or less in supplies.

The pics of that one really don't show the condition of the front wall or cab over wood. Those are the problem areas. Given the front lift panel is gone I'd suspect it had a leak. The lift panel would swell when wet and delaminate. Mine was. So the particle board in the cab over and front wall were most likely exposed to moisture too. I would not mount it on a Blazer until that is fixed as it is much easier to do off the truck. It's not that hard to do, but it is time consuming.

How far do you have to haul it from seattle to get home?
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Due to not having a floor or front wall I planned to mount it to the blazer for the drive home. The owner said he has driven it on the highway and it seems stable and doesn't try to lift from the cab like I saw either you or another person deal with when bringing it back home. I didn't really like the idea of building a temp frame and bulkhead to set it onto a trailer.

It's 2K miles each way lol. Leaving from OKC on Sat and driving to Seattle. Going to trailer my top and tailgate back with me.

Renting a 6x12 utility trailer from Uhaul. Unfortunately I have to drag the trailer all the way there and back because Uhaul won't do one way on the 6x12 utility trailer.
 
That's gonna be an adventure for sure. But it is the best way to move one.

Camper jacks are going to be required to lift. They can be rented at most tool rental shops. Pay attention to the balance as it's a little more forward than it looks.

The bolts to the bedrails are easy on the right side, pain on the left. The ice box has to come out to access the front two bolts. The middle bolts can be accessed through the slider doors on the cabinet. The rear most bolt is in the propane box on the outside. Take a sawzall or some type of cutting device for the possibility of a caged nut on the body breaking free and not allowing the bolt to loosen up.

The tailgate latches on the bedsides and studs for the cables have to come off as they won't clear the back wall.

If your path has you coming down I-25 through Colorado let me know if you need anything on the way.
 
metalneverdies said:
Due to not having a floor or front wall I planned to mount it to the blazer for the drive home. The owner said he has driven it on the highway and it seems stable and doesn't try to lift from the cab like I saw either you or another person deal with when bringing it back home. I didn't really like the idea of building a temp frame and bulkhead to set it onto a trailer.

It's 2K miles each way lol. Leaving from OKC on Sat and driving to Seattle. Going to trailer my top and tailgate back with me.

Renting a 6x12 utility trailer from Uhaul. Unfortunately I have to drag the trailer all the way there and back because Uhaul won't do one way on the 6x12 utility trailer.
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I built a dolly for my old one. Built it to the blazer bed dimensions and lag bolted it to it. 4 of us lifted it off the blazer and set it on the dolly. Put wheels on the dolly. Made it nice to maneuver around the shop when I worked on it. Put it with the door facing forward on the trailer. No problems towing from Palisade,Colorado to Northwest Washington.
 
ZooMad75 said:
That's gonna be an adventure for sure. But it is the best way to move one.

Camper jacks are going to be required to lift. They can be rented at most tool rental shops. Pay attention to the balance as it's a little more forward than it looks.

The bolts to the bedrails are easy on the right side, pain on the left. The ice box has to come out to access the front two bolts. The middle bolts can be accessed through the slider doors on the cabinet. The rear most bolt is in the propane box on the outside. Take a sawzall or some type of cutting device for the possibility of a caged nut on the body breaking free and not allowing the bolt to loosen up.

The tailgate latches on the bedsides and studs for the cables have to come off as they won't clear the back wall.

If your path has you coming down I-25 through Colorado let me know if you need anything on the way.
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Thanks! Mind PMing me you phone number just in case?

Thanks for all the tips. Luckily the guy has us meeting at the shop that is going to restore his blazer so hopefully we can just use the auto lifts to move the camper. The tool rental place is a good tip though!

I am bringing probably more tools than I would need but better safe than sorry. First big trip on the truck after some major repairs. I'll bring the sawzall along just in case.
 
metalneverdies said:
Thanks! Mind PMing me you phone number just in case?

Thanks for all the tips. Luckily the guy has us meeting at the shop that is going to restore his blazer so hopefully we can just use the auto lifts to move the camper. The tool rental place is a good tip though!

I am bringing probably more tools than I would need but better safe than sorry. First big trip on the truck after some major repairs. I'll bring the sawzall along just in case.
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If you need anything when you hit the Seattle area, I am about 1 1/2 hours north of Seattle.
 
Made it to Wyoming the first night. Had a minor issue with the radiator cap failing in Limon Colorado. Luckily it wasn't really a big deal once I confirmed it did cause too much coolant to get pushed out of the system. It was supposed to be a 14 hour drive and took us 17 hours. The wind in KS and East CO was brutal and really slowed us down and killed my MPG lol

2nd night we made it to Pendelton Oregon. 12.5 hour drive took us about 14 hours. The elevation really killed the power, even with a 5.3. once we got to low elevation in the Oregon mountains and it cooled off the truck really came to life.

Going to pick up the camper today. I'll update with some pictures tonight or tomorrow!

I noticed some clicking from the driver's side of the truck at about 20-30 mph. Doesn't seem to matter if brakes are applied or not. Hopefully it's just a wheel trim ring. Have not noticed any other issues. Going to pull them off and see if it goes away. If not, after picking up the camper I'll do a more thorough inspection. Worried it might be the 4wd auto locking hub.
 
That's one big shakedown run. Sounds like the Blazer is doing ok though. Waiting patiently for pics...
 
metalneverdies said:
Made it to Wyoming the first night. Had a minor issue with the radiator cap failing in Limon Colorado. Luckily it wasn't really a big deal once I confirmed it did cause too much coolant to get pushed out of the system. It was supposed to be a 14 hour drive and took us 17 hours. The wind in KS and East CO was brutal and really slowed us down and killed my MPG lol

2nd night we made it to Pendelton Oregon. 12.5 hour drive took us about 14 hours. The elevation really killed the power, even with a 5.3. once we got to low elevation in the Oregon mountains and it cooled off the truck really came to life.

Going to pick up the camper today. I'll update with some pictures tonight or tomorrow!

I noticed some clicking from the driver's side of the truck at about 20-30 mph. Doesn't seem to matter if brakes are applied or not. Hopefully it's just a wheel trim ring. Have not noticed any other issues. Going to pull them off and see if it goes away. If not, after picking up the camper I'll do a more thorough inspection. Worried it might be the 4wd auto locking hub.
Click to expand...
Might still have a auto hub laying around. Let you know when I get home
 
I'm local as well if you need any extra help. About an hour out of Seattle on Highway 2.
 
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