Bigb55
1/2 ton status
Is it ok to slot the door hinges? I have run out of adjustment and need a smidge more to get it where it needs to be.
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Slotting door hinges.
- Thread starter Bigb55
- Start date
WOW 
all the adjustment we have factory and you need more ? .... i think you have other problems.
all the adjustment we have factory and you need more ? .... i think you have other problems.
Bigb55
1/2 ton status
WOW
all the adjustment we have factory and you need more ? .... i think you have other problems.
I have the hinges adjusted down as far as possible on the cab side and as far down on the door side. To raise the door up.
It's still a cm or so to low to clear the sticker bolt. The striker is adjusted as low as it can go. But it gets hung up on the door striker head.
It's Possible the hinges are shot. I Plan to replace them in few months. But even then there isnt much play when you lift up on the door.
I replaced the outer rocker etc. Recently on both driver and pass side. Everything was braced properly and nothing shifted, pass side has no issues.
Prior to the rocker repairs the driver side door rubbed the striker similar to now. So appears nothing shifted.
On the door The lower hinge bolt area dents in. Could that be causing it to droop? I added shims there and it helped but any more then a few and it pushes the door to far to the rear
Any ideas? Cause im bout ready to smash it with a sledgehammer haha
Bigb55
1/2 ton status
WOW
all the adjustment we have factory and you need more ? .... i think you have other problems.
Here's pics after the repair that's as good as I could get the door adjusted. Without the fender I had it closing perfectly. But the fender to door gap was too close. Couldn't move fender forward enough. Readjusted the door and hasn't been good since.
You might have to loosen lots of Bolts and pull the front clip forward. You need about 3/8” clearance on both ends of the door. No amount of hinge wrangling is going to fix what you have happening there in the picture
Bigb55
1/2 ton status
The bottom of the door is to far to the rear cause of the shims needed to raise it to meet the striker bolt and to also not rub the rocker.
Prior to rocker repairs the door rubbed the rocker also. So no change there.
Prior to rocker repairs the door rubbed the rocker also. So no change there.
Gentleman Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Do you have the fender off? Loosen all the bolts, close the door and see if you can even manipulate the door where you need it... if you can’t then you might have some other issues.
Next time the door is off thread In that lower bolt that’s dented in and get a slide hammer on it and pull it out so you don’t have to have all the shims in there.
Next time the door is off thread In that lower bolt that’s dented in and get a slide hammer on it and pull it out so you don’t have to have all the shims in there.
Gentleman Jimmy
1/2 ton status
just saw the pic. Like Bent77 said. Loosen the core support bolt on the drivers side as well as the fender bolts and pull it forward. A big ratchet strap works well.
Bigb55
1/2 ton status
What other issues are possible? It's a full vert, so the obvious firewall taco'ing Is one. Reason I had to cut it open was the Previous owner did not install any of the braces and they were missing.
Anything else?
Anything else?
Bigb55
1/2 ton status
Ill give that a try, probably take it all apart again soon.
Like I said, I had the door working fine. I tried to adjust my again and never could get it back to working.
Gentleman Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Ya it’s frustrating, especially with nice paint like that. Get your door adjusted properly and align your fender to your door. It Takes some man handling sometimes, especially if you’ve swapped fenders/doors from other rigs.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Gotta replace those body mounts...
Bigb55
1/2 ton status
Gotta replace those body mounts...
Could body mounts really make a door not close right? Or be able to be adjusted. I can't imagine them causing this much of an issue on just one side. But this is my first square body so I dunno.
I'll do them by March I guess. Cause this Ill fitting door has royally messed up the paint on the door edges. Haha
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Yep. The factory used shims under the first gen mounts to adjust the gaps and I’d be surprised if they found a magic way to not need them one year later. One sure fire way way to tell is if the gaps are tight at the top of both sides of the door that’s a good indicator that you need more shims or the mount is missing/damaged. And that’s what that last picture looks like to me. The body is sagging down under the cab area and tilting the a-pillar back.
Last edited:
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Yep I agree start with body mounts, replace if worn then shim, check condition of hinges, pins, check for give where they attach to both the door and the body. New body mounts on mine made a world of difference, but I still have some of the other issues I need to tackle.
Bigb55
1/2 ton status
Ordering new mount bushings and hinges.
Welp, I'm 85% positive it's the body mounts. I measured the body to mount cushion at both A -pillar #1 mounts. Driver side was 1/4"+ smaller.
Loosened the driver side body mount bolt and jacked the body up about a 1/4" to 1/2" at the mount to match the pass side. Guess what happened? The door magically started to stop rubbing. And raised up to meet the striker bolt.
The passenger side also went from average to closing with just a slight breeze.
The hinge bushings also loosened up and they are done for. Causing the rear of the door to sag about 1/2".
The bottom fender door gap shrunk to about 1/2" also. It was around 3/4" before. the upper fender door gap widened and it's near even top to bottom now.
So......worn body mount bushings just a fraction difference can totally mess up the door alignment.
Haha
Welp, I'm 85% positive it's the body mounts. I measured the body to mount cushion at both A -pillar #1 mounts. Driver side was 1/4"+ smaller.
Loosened the driver side body mount bolt and jacked the body up about a 1/4" to 1/2" at the mount to match the pass side. Guess what happened? The door magically started to stop rubbing. And raised up to meet the striker bolt.
The passenger side also went from average to closing with just a slight breeze.
The hinge bushings also loosened up and they are done for. Causing the rear of the door to sag about 1/2".
The bottom fender door gap shrunk to about 1/2" also. It was around 3/4" before. the upper fender door gap widened and it's near even top to bottom now.
So......worn body mount bushings just a fraction difference can totally mess up the door alignment.
Haha
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Bigb55
1/2 ton status
Unfortunately, the small paint chips on the door edges that existed when I purchased the truck are now much bigger. The paint is really thick and it has at least three paint jobs on it. Factory, a factory color repaint, then it's current color. Lol
