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Slow Cranking '82 Jimmy

bigjimmy82

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Thanks in advance for any help...:bow: I have a 82 Jimmy 350/TH350 and I replaced the starter due to it not engageing after when the motor was hot(after you drive somewhere), After I replaced the starter I noticed the new one is sometimes cranks slow, it sounded like it was a voltage problem, so went to sams club and swapped my battery free under warranty. After battery replacement I still have the slow cranking issue. I am getting power now though ~12 when off and a little over 14 when running, so :confused:?? anything else you guys can think of that would cause the slow cranking?
 
check your cable connections, starter ones are notorious for going bad...

Are you running headers? a remote solenoid will help eliminate heatsoak if it's an issue...
 
bigjimmy82 said:
Thanks in advance for any help...:bow: I have a 82 Jimmy 350/TH350 and I replaced the starter due to it not engageing after when the motor was hot(after you drive somewhere), After I replaced the starter I noticed the new one is sometimes cranks slow, it sounded like it was a voltage problem, so went to sams club and swapped my battery free under warranty. After battery replacement I still have the slow cranking issue. I am getting power now though ~12 when off and a little over 14 when running, so :confused:?? anything else you guys can think of that would cause the slow cranking?

Are you saying the old starter didn't have this problem but the new one does.
Is it a reman or a new starter, or is it a used starter?
If the starter needs shimming and is too close it could turn slower, it happened to me last time i changed starters untill I put some shims.
Also if it has some burned coils it could trun slower then eventually burn more and die.
be carefull with that since you will be stranded.:o
If it's a reman take it back and change it, see if there is a difference.
I had one like that, one coild out of 4 was burnt (is my guess) because after pushing it hard I burned another and the starter barely moved so i opened it up and 2 were done, charred.
:rolleyes:
 
yeah I am considering the remote solenoid and I do have headers, but I want to make sure the truck starts consistantly before I try and change things.

It is a reman'ed unit so I think I will exchange it and maybe try some shims, I did not put any in since the old did not have them, I had not thought about it being too close.


Thanks for the replys!
 
My truck does the same thing. It cranks fine when cold, but once the motor warms up it wants to drag. Not much help, but just wanted to let you know I have the same issue.
 
You haven't touched your distributor for any reason latley ? Just curious , timing has an effect on cranking speed too .
 
thebird00 said:
My truck does the same thing. It cranks fine when cold, but once the motor warms up it wants to drag. Not much help, but just wanted to let you know I have the same issue.

The first starter he had had issues when the engine was warm, this one he just says it's slow.
If it's only slow when warm, a remote solenoid will cure the problem, with better bigger cables from the battery to the starter.
 
pauly383 said:
You haven't touched your distributor for any reason latley ? Just curious , timing has an effect on cranking speed too .

nope, i am going to work on it tomorrow, I will keep you guys posted
 
Just replace both battery cables and terminals. Make sure each connection has a CLEAN surface.
 
Got some time to work on it today, shimmed the starter. It starts much better. So I was starting it and shutting it off a couple of times to make sure it was good and I hear a zap zap type buzzing noise, and it starts cranking slow, my brother was standing next to the battery with the hood up and notices smoke from the neg. battery cable. My battery has 2 wires on the negative side on a marine type brass wing nut terminal, one is a 4 gauge wire run to the alternator bracket on the engine and one mayber 10-12 gauge wire run to the core support right next to the battery with a ring terminal. Only the little wire was smoking and it was hot to the touch, while the bigger one was fine, my question is does it just need to be a bigger wire or is there a more serious problem?

Thanks again!
 
my negative cable fried randomy one day. I replaced it and has never given me a problem since.
 
bigjimmy82 said:
Got some time to work on it today, shimmed the starter. It starts much better. So I was starting it and shutting it off a couple of times to make sure it was good and I hear a zap zap type buzzing noise, and it starts cranking slow, my brother was standing next to the battery with the hood up and notices smoke from the neg. battery cable. My battery has 2 wires on the negative side on a marine type brass wing nut terminal, one is a 4 gauge wire run to the alternator bracket on the engine and one mayber 10-12 gauge wire run to the core support right next to the battery with a ring terminal. Only the little wire was smoking and it was hot to the touch, while the bigger one was fine, my question is does it just need to be a bigger wire or is there a more serious problem?

Thanks again!

If the smaller wire was smoking, it means you have a bad ground on the bigger cable, the smaller cable goes to the body, and the big cable goes to the engine where the starter draws the power, so you need to check your connection on that big cable, also check that you have a good ground from the engine to the body, usually when that cable is gone or bad, the starter seems to turn slow.
I have to say now with the new info, your problem is ground, but if you don't fix it, you could burn your starter.
:o
 
yeah there is no wire from engine to body, just a battery to engine wire(big one), and a battery to body wire (small one), I am going to replace the small one that fried and run a new on from the engine to the body and maybe a 4th engine to frame? also what size wire should I use for my new grounds?
 
bigjimmy82 said:
yeah there is no wire from engine to body, just a battery to engine wire(big one), and a battery to body wire (small one), I am going to replace the small one that fried and run a new on from the engine to the body and maybe a 4th engine to frame? also what size wire should I use for my new grounds?
I usually upgrade to bigger sizes on all my wires, I use 2/00 for the main ground cable and positive, and I use the size you have on the main for the grounds between body and engine, body and battery, etc...
But that is over kill, just so I neve have any overheating of cables or loss of power thru cables.
 
well i got it fixed!

needed to tighten up / clean the engine to battery connection and I ran a new 6 gauge wire from battery to the core support and I am going to run another from the core support to the frame, but I have not done it yet. The truck fires right up, but the starter seems to be noisy after the truck starts, like it is still spinning, normal or should I pull out the shim I have in it?
 
bigjimmy82 said:
well i got it fixed!

needed to tighten up / clean the engine to battery connection and I ran a new 6 gauge wire from battery to the core support and I am going to run another from the core support to the frame, but I have not done it yet. The truck fires right up, but the starter seems to be noisy after the truck starts, like it is still spinning, normal or should I pull out the shim I have in it?

If it still spins, either the shims need to be removed, or they need to be more.
That is the gear getting too close to the flexplate and getting caught.
Usually shims will space it further
 
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