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slow power windows

thatK30guy

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Any tips to speed them up?

I checked out prices for new and remanned ones and both are same prices. Just not real thrilled about tearing into the doors again just to change them out. Is there anything else than can be done cheaper and quicker?
 
Waaaaaaaaaaaaay back thread was a thread about using Cavalier or Corsica or...? motors in a truck because they were faster. I mean way back, like when I 1st joined. :doah:
 
put two 12v batteries wired to make your system 24v?




Caution. may fry electrical system. Use with video camera for later youtube halarious moments.





In all reality, the huge curved glass on my 80 camaro flys up compared to my 83 c10s flat small glass. And to think, i used to think they were slow :haha:
 
There were several threads about adding relays and heavy wire to eliminate losses in the original wires and switches. Don't know how much it helped.
Have they always been slow, or just started?
 
Always been slow since I bought the rig about 3 years ago.

They will go down about an inch or two then stop. Wait several seconds and try again, it will go down about another inch or two and stop again.
Sometimes they wont go back up so using one hand to pull up the window while the other on the switch helps speed up things.

Back 'gate window works fine. Just the cab door windows suck.
 
Let it run and push on the gas. Mine feel like they're gonna stop mid-way, and I replaced the motors with GM NOS motors, didn't change a thing. Do a few searches, I remember hearing about the relays but also didn't hear if they helped or not.
 
Sounds like it's drawing too much amperage through the circuit breaker, that's why it will stop, wait, and go again.

Motor could be bad. Window track may need to be cleaned and lubed. Wires could be breaking in the door hinge area. Bad connections at the switches. Bad ground from the door to the body. Any or all of the above...
 
I tore the ones apart in the dually i had, totally cleaned out the tracks and rollers, removed all the dried up crusty grease and dirt, then regreased them with this stuff i got from work, it sprays on as a foamy type stuff, then somewhat to a liquid after sitting for a few, wasn't so runnin to where it would run off the tracks, it would stay put, but it made a world of difference inthe speed and overall movement.

I need to do this to my Burb now, now that i am back east here, this colder weather is messin with my passenger side window.:crazy:
 
Mine are slow as well Wes, I cleaned them out and regreased them when I was working on the door panels and didn't notice a change. I thought I remember hearing the relays did in fact help a lot, guess I need to dig for the thread.
 
Clean/lube the crap out of them.

Also, make sure your main power wires (bat to starter, starter to dis block, dist block to fusepanel) are all in good shape.

I lubed the crap out of my windows, and it helped a lot. Make sure and use something that won't gum up later.

I mention the wiring, cause my truck was shutting off on me, and i figured out it was a bad ring terminal crimp at the distribution block. EVERYTHING in the truck worked better after i fixed that, including the power windows.
 
Here's the thread,

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206618&highlight=relays+power+windows

I might try it, Jason says it doubled the speed in the first post.:D Where'd he go by the way? Actually I see a few people who are expired in that thread.:confused:


This concerns me. Although the motors are ready for a full 12volt ( or 14.4, whatever), i think their life is decreased.

Since doing a similar mod to my headlights, the headlights burn out every 6-10 months. Headlights are cheap/easy to replace compared to window motors.
 
Yeah I saw your post in the thread, wish Jason was still around so we could see if he's noticed any adverse side effects.
 
I'm pretty sure your concerns were addressed in that thread, at least regarding the window motors. They were designed to see ~14 volts day in, and day out. The degradation of the factory wiring and switches causes them to see considerably less after many years though. This relay mod does not supply more than the voltage they were designed for, it only restores the correct power to them.

As for your headlights, I'd try better replacement bulbs and see how long they last.

Rene
 
I'm pretty sure your concerns were addressed in that thread, at least regarding the window motors. They were designed to see ~14 volts day in, and day out. The degradation of the factory wiring and switches causes them to see considerably less after many years though. This relay mod does not supply more than the voltage they were designed for, it only restores the correct power to them.

As for your headlights, I'd try better replacement bulbs and see how long they last.

Rene

Rene,

I agree with your claim, but the headlights should be designed to see the same voltage level too. Not trying to say don't do it, just consider that it may shorten the motor life.

Also, keep in mind mine is a 91, but with stock wiring, and clean, freshly lubed tracks, my windows move close to what i would bet was factory new speed. Not an 07 truck my any means, but not that slow.

Consider detailing the tracks, relubing, and see what happens before modding the wiring or replacing the motors.
 
It would not be difficult to check the electrical as far as the actual checking is concerned.
However, it would require some door work.

The best thing to do would be to clean and lube what you can, then put a volt meter across the motor wires at the connector in the door.
When you turn the motor on, you should see at least 11 or so volts.

If not, then you either have a bad connection somewhere between the motor and the battery, or the wires are just too small.
In which case the relay would help a lot.

J.
 
I have to replace the pass side motor on mine, but I just help it up and down with my hand. Lube helped mine, for a while. Back to helping it along. :D
 
my 88 k5 had very slow windows and then one quit on me. i replaced them with motors from autozone for $40 bucks each. I cleaned, lubed, and adjusted the track and rollers and gear. I also replaced my weatherstripping at the same time. They work very well now. I could be wrong, but I think that a worn out motor pulls more amperage than a new strong one that isn't pushed to its limit to lift the windows. The power windows in my blazer are stock/factory wired.

My 79 C20 has electric life power windows. I am pretty sure they don't use relays. The switches handle the high current. They work well.

Has anyone actually measured the amperage that a window motor uses, just out of curiosity?
 
Not only does a worn, dragging motor draw more current, but a motor draws more current as the voltage drops.
You will burn a motor up on low voltage quicker than you will on slightly overvoltage.
Of course a brand new motor with tight bearings will draw more current than an older broken in motor.

J.
 
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