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sm 465?

hd-10

1/2 ton status
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Jan 31, 2004
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lemoore, ca
has anyone swaped out a automatic tranny with a manual in a 74 or later blazer? if so how did you run the clutch rods from the tranny to the pedal? there are two holes on the block and one seems to be to close and the other is behind my exaust manifold. any help would be nice so i can finish this project thanks.
 
I think I Have pictures somewhere of the linkage if not can get you some off my blazer. I will look if I don't will take you some tonight and get them to you.
 
I've not done the swap, but during my frame-off of my '73 with SM465 and 205 Transfercase, I noted the differences when I tore down my '73 parts K5 with Auto/241 setup.

Different crossmember, with hole placment in the bottom of the memeber being the difference.
You need the small L bracket that goes on the left framerail, (there should be two mounting holes on the rail), this hold one end of the pivot and the other end goes into the bellhousing. The clutch rod attached to one end of the pivot and the other end of the pivot has a tab that pushes another adjustable rod which pushes the clutch fork. You need the additional hole in the floor for the clutch rod to pass through, you need the whole clutch/brake pedal assembly , it is different from the auto.
If you go with the 205 transfercase, there a bracket that goes on the right side that bolts to the frame rail to control movment, it's not there on 77 and later trucks, but it's really nice to have espcially if your are going to be off-roading...

Hope that helps..

ken
 
i don't understand where on the bell housing it would thread into. i was looking at my buddys 72 blazer and it is in the same spot i am tring to put mine but there is a big difference in the frame work. the pivet ball when it got pulled out of the old engine it went into the block. whats a good way to run this darn part. i am trying to get it up for the 2nd weekend in june. help help help. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif thanks.
 
Ok, you force me to dig through the wife's purse and find the digital camera...

Like this:


ClutchPivot_fromleft.jpg
 
thanks for the pic it help me out a lot different bell housing but i got the genral picture on how to get it done thanks.
 
Some of the older Chev bellhousing, especially the steel ones, don't have the ball pivot in them. Not sure how they work, but I bought one of those by mistake and ended up getting rid of it because of no pivot point, and my clutch fork would not even go thru the window in it...?
 
Of course you could just go with the Hydraulic setup, all the pieces are available for order in LMC or classicindustries or chevyduty ot golden state pickup parts..

My '86 C10 has the hydro setup from factory, but I still think I like the manual setup better. I had to replace the slave cylinder once already, and it gave no warning of failure, it just blew out, and no clutch, had to limp her home power shifting, and with the three-on-the-tree in there, that was a chore.
My '97K2500HD had a slave cylinder failure as well, that design being of the internal type, so removal of the transmission necessary to fix, that sucked. Same thing, when it went, it went, power shifted the NV4500 all the way home.

Only drawback to the manual system is you need to adjust it from time-to-time, and the pedal is a wee bit stiffer, but don't mind either..
 
OK, so the thread is a little old, but I would like to see the picture references...any chance of that?
 
You mean this:

ClutchSetup.jpg


Rod pokes through floor, connects to one end of Z-Bar, zbar pivots between bracket on frame and ball on bellhousing (not installed). Other side of z-bar would connect the clutch adjusting rod pushing straight back to the clutch fork (fork hooks into bellhousing, which is not installed yet)
 

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