CK5
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SM465 shifting rough
- Thread starter yakmastermax
- Start date
I doubt you hurt anything.
Martin
Martin
After reading this thread, I decided to try and adjust my linkage. It has been reaaaallllyyyy bad lately, especially when wheeling when it gets flexed out. So I adjusted it about 4 turns out and now it is like driving a whole different truck. Night and day difference. Works perfectly now even when flexed out. 
After reading this thread, I decided to try and adjust my linkage. It has been reaaaallllyyyy bad lately, especially when wheeling when it gets flexed out. So I adjusted it about 4 turns out and now it is like driving a whole different truck. Night and day difference. Works perfectly now even when flexed out.
This is why some/lots of people like the hydraulic setup instead. No adjusting necessary/possible, and the flexy frame doesn't affect operation.
Fairly difficult to find and retrofit, but if starting from scratch, the route I'd go.
That's still my plan, but it's a lot better for the time being.
yakmastermax
1/2 ton status
just thought i would update the thread for the sake of posterity. I adjusted my linkage and backed the nut out almost all the way so that the clutch engages/disengages about halfway through the pedal's travel. The truck is shifting great now! 
yakmastermax
1/2 ton status
The problem is back again! 
And worse than ever...
It was slowly getting worse over the past few weeks and today I went for a drive to go pick up a sweet 60 gallon air compressor in preparation for the next stage of my build. I ended the day without an air compressor and 120 dollars poorer because I had to get towed home
By the time I was halfway to the guy's place to pick the compressor up the clutch was acting so bad I could not even idle with the pedal depressed. I rolled into a mechanic's lot (luckily there was one right off main st.) and asked to borrow a 14mm to adjust it just like I had done last time. I backed the push-rod all the way into the fork so that the clutch should be disengaging as early in the pedal travel as possible. It was a bear getting the spring back in and the rod in the fork cup for that matter.
Still no dice though! The clutch is not disengaging. The mechanic who's lot I pulled into took a look at the linkage as I depressed the pedal a few times and his expert opinion is that something is binding/ is wrong inside the bell housing.
I only have myself to blame since I installed the current clutch and transmission but I really don't even know where to begin other than to jack the truck up and prepare to re-install a new clutch kit and fork as well as fork pivot.
Any ideas? Thanks guys
And worse than ever...
It was slowly getting worse over the past few weeks and today I went for a drive to go pick up a sweet 60 gallon air compressor in preparation for the next stage of my build. I ended the day without an air compressor and 120 dollars poorer because I had to get towed home
By the time I was halfway to the guy's place to pick the compressor up the clutch was acting so bad I could not even idle with the pedal depressed. I rolled into a mechanic's lot (luckily there was one right off main st.) and asked to borrow a 14mm to adjust it just like I had done last time. I backed the push-rod all the way into the fork so that the clutch should be disengaging as early in the pedal travel as possible. It was a bear getting the spring back in and the rod in the fork cup for that matter.
Still no dice though! The clutch is not disengaging. The mechanic who's lot I pulled into took a look at the linkage as I depressed the pedal a few times and his expert opinion is that something is binding/ is wrong inside the bell housing.
I only have myself to blame since I installed the current clutch and transmission but I really don't even know where to begin other than to jack the truck up and prepare to re-install a new clutch kit and fork as well as fork pivot.
Any ideas? Thanks guys
yakmastermax
1/2 ton status
Also since inevitably the bell-housing and transmission will be dropped what are your guy's thoughts on going to a hydro clutch setup or swapping in an automatic? 
There is a hydro setup on CL for $300 right now, maybe I can swing it all for $200
There is a hydro setup on CL for $300 right now, maybe I can swing it all for $200
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
Your clutch finally died. I wouldn't swap to auto on anything with a standard trams. Just replace the clutch with a diaphragm style and pressure plate and it will last a lot longer if you have it adjusted correctly.
Sounds like you had a borg & beck 3 fingered pressure plate,and one of the fingers finally failed,and that lets the pressure plate not release evenly,one side keeps pressure on the disc,and wont release the clutch...
I went thru three of those pressure plates (12" ones!) in less than 3 months,I ended up putting in an 11" used centerforce clutch with a diaphram style plate instead...I was tempted to put the automatic back in my K5 after having to drop that ingot SM465 & Np205 combo 3 times...didn't have any issues with that clutch though,thankfully..
I went thru three of those pressure plates (12" ones!) in less than 3 months,I ended up putting in an 11" used centerforce clutch with a diaphram style plate instead...I was tempted to put the automatic back in my K5 after having to drop that ingot SM465 & Np205 combo 3 times...didn't have any issues with that clutch though,thankfully..
yakmastermax
1/2 ton status
Makes sense, I felt iffy about the 3 finger when I first got it; I had never seen one before. 
I'm also considering going hydraulic since I'd like to change out the fork and pivot just in case there is a problem there too. It also seems like the superior setup for wheeling.
I'm also considering going hydraulic since I'd like to change out the fork and pivot just in case there is a problem there too. It also seems like the superior setup for wheeling.
It is. Swap in a hydraulic setup, and don't look back.
Martin
Martin
black dawg
1/2 ton status
why is the hydraulic better than mechanical linkage?
I am possibly going 4 gear in the burb, and only have mech linkage
I am possibly going 4 gear in the burb, and only have mech linkage
Main drawback to a mechanical clutch linkage is the fact it can come apart if you flex the frame enough,leaving you with no clutch control!...or break,wear out,etc...not a problem with a hydraulic one..instead you get to deal with leaky master and slave cylinders,the joy of bleeding one,etc...
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Plus the hydraulic clutch is much easier to depress.
Martin
Martin
yakmastermax
1/2 ton status
I can't attest to the linkage coming apart but I've read that several times across the web.
However, I can attest to my mechanical linkage going out of adjustment/ acting funny after I go wheeling.
However, I can attest to my mechanical linkage going out of adjustment/ acting funny after I go wheeling.
I have had mine come apart, and I have had to help others when theirs came apart. It sucks. It is usually not in the best location when it happens.
Martin
Martin
ion
1/2 ton status
Easiest way to fix this is to drop in a th400 and be done with it for good.
You have to turn in your man card at the same time though.
Martin
Martin
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
So true. Lol
I've never had the problem of linkage falling apart yet. I don't think with the first gen it has as much body flex as the later design. If its together good with all the connections tight it shouldn't have a problem as I can see it. Only problem I had was the return spring breaking and having no clutch return.
I'm sure it happens but luckily not to me yet.
