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smoking?... agian UPDATE...pic of plugs nad comp test...

broncoman6524

broncoman6524

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ok before it was blue...pcv valve replaced bam no more.

gm 290hp 350...smokes white...maybe im just retarted and it is steam but heres my story...

NOW intital start up puff of white i think ok jstu the gas. drive to mc donalds (MAYBe 1/2mi away) on break sittin in line look back adn i see a CLOUD of smoke....now its maybe 80-85 not exaclty "steam" weather. i look down and temp gauge is at 1/2 normaly round 1/4 think great ****in head gasket. baby it back to work...still smoking. leave wokr 3 hours later. get home no smoke:mad: just hte typical steam (70ihsh now)

today same ****. wtf giveS? im thinkin the temp gauge could be a stickin thermostat...maybe

i dotn think im loosing coolant motor was put in 3000mi ago. radiator,motor,and over flow were filled. now overflow is almost empyy but radiator is normal...is this normaL? was there maybe air pockets in the motor and now theyre filled? the coolant and oil both look normal.

im stumped :confused: gonna do a compressiont est prob thurs. so well see. the standard is about 90psi right?
 
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get someone to pressure test your cooling system. If it looses pressure and no external leaks may be head gasket. We sell gm engines all the time and have warrentied 2 ever and one was a owner screw up. If it does loose coolant pull the plugs and turn it over is coolant comes out of one hole you at least found the side.
 
Book compression for my 90 says 155-165psi. I'm not sure if thats universal or not, but anything less then 125 would concern me, or 7 at 150 and one at 125.

Before you go much further, drain and examine the oil - look for signs of coolant contamination like sludge etc. If it looks good then drain the coolant and look for signs of oil contamination.

The simple way I have allways tested for a bad head gasket is to come down a fairly steep hill in 2nd gear with my foot off the throttle. While it does not work every time, you will usually overheat and end up with oil/water contamination. Compression test will point to where the problem is.
 
ok its due for an oil change...guess its cheap ass discount brand time :) lol. can i get the pressure chekc thingy at like a radiator shop?
 
Ya that could be it a bad modulator allows atf to be pulled past it and into the intake. Atf smoke it white.
 
correct!..

Yep--a ruptured diaphram in the modulator can allow ATF to be sucked into the intake and burned--makes a white smoke,not blue like oil being burned..

Another thing to check is the power brake booster and master cylinder...if you've had to top off the brake fliud, and have no leaks anywhere in the lines or wheel cylinders,calipers,etc--it could be brake fluid is leaking from the master cylinder into the power booster,which can also be sucked into the engine, and produce white smoke..my 72 K5 drove me batty ,it was smoking white badly upon starting after sitting overnight..eventually I found out it was the master cylinder--when it ran dry on fluid,and I lost ALLthe brakes!..:eek1: :doah: ...I blamed the valve stem seals for the smoke--WRONG!!..:crazy:
 
the modulator is fine....replaced that. shifting was pussy, shifts great now. :) lol

ill unhook the vacuum line. and see what happens. ill post pics of plugs adn compression results in about an hour...
 
ok heres a pic of the plugs...shown like your looking on drivers side of block. i can get close ups if wanted...as faras I can tell theyre all good :( argh.
100_4050.jpg

#1-dry threads 90psi
#2-dry threads 90psi
#3-wet threads 110psi
#4-wet threads 110 psi
#5-wet threads 100psi
#6-dry threads 900psi
#7-wet threads 75psi
#8-wet threads 85psi


obviously the right bank is worse off than the left...thohg theyre not exactly anywhere near the 125-150 range:eek1:

sooo any ideas as to what im lookin at here? rings....head gaskets...intake leak maybe?

unhooked booster line...no diff. same smoke smelled diff thouhg...like burning rubberish...
 
your letting the compression tester cycle to max pressure?

Those numbers suck... not to mention your well over 10% between cylinders..

And when you say "wet threads" do you mean the threads where oilly?

You should always oil your cylinders on a compression test to note any difference in psi after doing them dry.. this will tell you if its rings or up at the head...
 
max pressure...like first its 60, then 75, then 90? bc thats what it did...i recored the last #shown on gauge...is that right?

yeah i know theyre NO WHERE near close....wonder what got F*cked up...LOL
 
well, standard compression tests are done with a minimum of 5 "pumps" or as many as it takes to get max cylinder pressure.. spinning over ok? I always pull all plugs when doing it... also do you have carb blocked off?

go back and do it again and put a couple teaspoons of marvel, tranny fluid, etc in each cylinder after you've done it dry... not too much tho... if it changes, you've got a ring/wall issue...
 
yoiu mean warm? lol...idk ill try that tomorrow and see what happens...im goin to my nieghbor withs aid plugs and results to see what he htingks. (gm master mech) prob gonna pressure check sys tomorow.
 
ryoken said:
And when you say "wet threads" do you mean the threads where oilly?
quote]
yup...

ill try the oil thingy after school today. that would be a "wet" compression test right?
Click to expand...
 
sure, it could be called that... anytime you have something funny with the #'s, thats an automatic do... make sure the throttle blade is open and don't put more than a couple tablespoons in...

A coolant system pressure check is always a good idea... If it fails the compression test, a leakdown test can narrow it down more...
 
found the prolem...think atleats lol. the exhaust cross over was suckin oil into the gaskets between intake and heads...dumpin it into the exhaust ports. ie my smoke problem :) gonna head out and get gasskets w/o the holes and *hopefully* itll be all better :) LOL

thanks guys.
 
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