Smoking Engine ???

[ftn96]

Well, I put some Engine restore stuff in last time I changed the oil. Now it smokes when I start it up. So Im thinking valve guides right??
Well, today while I was sitting in traffic for 20 minutes at idle it starts smoking. So what Im asking is could the guides be leaking abd enough to allow oil to seep through them at idle?
Or does it sound like I need to go ahead and start the rebuild? I did notice that my oil pressure is a little higher now that I put the restore can in the oil.
Need some help here. This has really bumbed me out.

Will work for beer, parts and tools.
90 Jimmy 350TBI-700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's
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[Emmettology 101]

At start up it more than likely would be the valve seals.. I would think maybe the same for the traffic light smoke. If it smokes while you drive, that is probably the rings.

If you change the valve seals, make sure you get the umbrella style...

Mike

See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; <A target="_blank" HREF=http://emmett.coloradok5.com>http://emmett.coloradok5.com</A>

"He who uses a winch...... Is tired of yankin!"

 

[MudRebel350]

Did you put the restore stuff in there in addition to the 5 quarts of oil? I put that stuff in my 87 blazer once and i used it 4 about 200 miles and it ran like crap so i changed the oil again and it ran fine. Use synthetic oil to get rid of the blue smoke. I used quaker state 4x4 synthetic 10w-30 and the smoke went away.

JD

 

[ftn96]

I used the can and 4 1/2 quarts of oil.
How much of a pain in tha a$$ is it to change the valve seal/guides?

Will work for beer, parts and tools.
90 Jimmy 350TBI-700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>

 

[MudRebel350]

Its not too bad, you have to inject the compressed air into the cylinders individually so you dont drop a valve with the air hose the will screw in that you would use for a compression test as i remember. I think its about a 2 hour job according to Chilton.

JD

 

[HarryH3]

With the compressed air trick, you need an adapter to go onto the end of an air hose. It screws into the sprak plug hole of the cylinder that you're working on. 110 PSI or so will keep the valves on their seats pretty well.

Make CERTAIN that the piston for the cylinder that you're currently working on is at the top of it's stroke. Otherwise, if you do manage to bump a valve stem enough for the valve to open, the valve won't drop totally out of sight. If that happens, then you get to pull the head.

There's another special tool that you'll need that lets you remove the valve spring retainers with the head on the engine.

<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
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[MudRebel350]

Thanks for finishing up the rest of the valve guide job for me, I couldnt think of the rest of it, but I knew that part with the air hose was very important.

JD

 

[HarryH3]

Always glad to help... I try to offer what I know and learn about what I don't.

The compressed air trick is the way auto shops will do that job. Saves them a lot of hours of labor. And since they're aren't taking all that other stuff off, they don't have to worry about come-backs because of gasket leaks, etc. You just have to remember to turn the crank and get the piston to the top before working on each cylinder. If you drop a valve inside you're going to be saying some very bad words!

<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>