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Snapping studs on my steering arm d44...

Metal Twister

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I have a dana 44 under a 8" superlift kit on 38 swampers. The steering J arm is the one that came with the kit with the 4" of lift built into it. It is sitting on a 3" lifting block. Two of the three 7" grade 8 studs with the cone washers have snapped off clean flush with the bottom of the block? I was backing up at the gas pump when they failed and man it sounded like someone was shooting at me. I cant figure out why they would fail like that. The front end has been aligned just fine and no obvious strain on the steering was detected... Guess Im just wondering if this is common place or what might of gone wrong? Im sure they were tight, possibly too tight? Any way I need to dig the broke off stud and being its grade 8 Im guessing it's not drillable for a easy out? Any other options other than plug welding a nut on the end of the stud and wrenching it out? :dunno:
 
You post made me chuckle "no obvious strain on the steering was detected"

You are running 38's with steering lift blocks on a 44, how much more of a strain could you put on it :confused: :D

That being said, take the other nut off then take the block off and the other ones should be able to come off.

Unless they broke on the top of the knuckle then the welding on nut idea is about your only other option.
 
You post made me chuckle "no obvious strain on the steering was detected"

You are running 38's with steering lift blocks on a 44, how much more of a strain could you put on it :confused: :D

That being said, take the other nut off then take the block off and the other ones should be able to come off.

Unless they broke on the top of the knuckle then the welding on nut idea is about your only other option.

Yeah, now that you point it out that was a pretty stupid staement. But I've ran way more extreme setup in the past with no issues. Guess it is just more of a reason to get off my butt and do the cross steer thing. Thanks
 
Keep in mind, alot of the money you spend on crossover is basically wasted when you upgrade to the 60, as the knuckle, steering arm and so on do not work. All that can be reused is the drag link, and thats assuming the 60 you buy is the same width as your 44.

I just sold a 10 bolt with chromoly shafts, crossover, twin stabilizers, 5.13s and a Yukon locker in it for 600$ because honestly, they are not worth the money to fix in something with 38s.
 
In the meantime, get those studs out. Then take a nice clean straight single cut file and run it over the knuckle, arm and block mating sufaces. Not to remove much material, but to hit any high spots and remove any paint or rust. then new studs and tighten to their torque spec, then run it a couple of days then retorque. You probably had some paint or rust or dirt in the mating surfaces, that caused the problem
 
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