anybody live in the snow have a traction adding device in the front diff? we get a lot of hard pack snow/ice on the roads and highways round here, and i want more traction off road but i want to drive the thing in winter without major problems.
CK5
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snow locker
- Thread starter raymos
- Start date
lockright in a dana 44 front. common sense is your friend. don't make big changes in throttle and you wll be fine. you can always leave one hub unlocked.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
Put a Detroit Tru Trak in front. No worries.
drivelineman
1/2 ton status
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- Aug 23, 2000
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I like my arb- Jess
drivelineman said:
ha I would like mine too if I had one. Im not cool enough for one of those though. mines welded, Im scared. good thing we dont get much ice and snow around here. I have a feelin that I wont be driving much this winter and if I do the only time it will get locked in will be to pull me out of the ditch. my rear is welded to. should make for a fun ride.
G
goldwing2000
Guest
If you have $700-$1000, a Truetrac, Zexel Torsen or an ARB is definitely the way to go.
If you're flat-ass broke like the rest of us, get a lock-right and use some caution and common sense. If you're driving on ice, you shouldn't be going very fast anyway!
I just put a lockright in the front of mine, so I plan to take my own advice this coming winter.
If you're flat-ass broke like the rest of us, get a lock-right and use some caution and common sense. If you're driving on ice, you shouldn't be going very fast anyway!
I just put a lockright in the front of mine, so I plan to take my own advice this coming winter.
I've got a Eaton Posi up front and it's alot of fun that first snow/ice event. 
After a few minutes, you get used to the way it handles again.
Just take it easy and feather the gas.
I never even thought of just unlocking hub
Can't wait to try it.
After a few minutes, you get used to the way it handles again.
Just take it easy and feather the gas.
I never even thought of just unlocking hub
Can't wait to try it.
scooter122983
1/2 ton status
no a lock rite just goes in place of your spider gears.
Thunder
3/4 ton status
I have a lockrite in the front. I love it off road in the snow but I really dont use it much on the street when it is snowy and icy. Dont like the way it handles it is also very noisy on the front.. I have a locker in the back and that is usually enough unless the snow is real deep. I usually lock in the hubs and use 4x4 only wnen i need it on the street then shift back to 2wd.
Before winter hits I am going to get rid of the lockrite and get an Eaton Elocker for the front. I like to be able to have a front locker I can shift to open if I want.
IMHO If you want a cheaper locker for the front that has better street manners a Powertrax No Slip or a Posi unit is a better choice than a lockrite or other full locker.
Before winter hits I am going to get rid of the lockrite and get an Eaton Elocker for the front. I like to be able to have a front locker I can shift to open if I want.
IMHO If you want a cheaper locker for the front that has better street manners a Powertrax No Slip or a Posi unit is a better choice than a lockrite or other full locker.
randy88k5
1/2 ton status
FWIW, my friend in his XJ had to take the ring gear off to replace the spiders and the side gears because the crosspin would hit the teeth of the ring before it would clear the carrier. That was with a D44, Ive heard the D60s are big enough you shouldnt have that problem.
when I put a lockright in my dana 44 I had to pull the carrier. the ring gear is in the way of the crosspin. It's easy to do and you aren't changing anything that would effect backlash. just put everything back the way it came out. what sucks is you have to pull both axleshafts to get the carrier out.
I have seen them done in axles where you don't need to pull the carrier. It saves a lot of wrenching, but they are easier to install on a table.
I have seen them done in axles where you don't need to pull the carrier. It saves a lot of wrenching, but they are easier to install on a table.
G
goldwing2000
Guest
Yep... a D44 carrier does have to come out. The D44 ring gear gets in the way when trying to remove the spiders, so the whole thing has to come out and the ring gear removed. 
If you had a 10-bolt, it's be easier.
If you had a 10-bolt, it's be easier.
Clod_King
1/2 ton status
is the ring gear on a 10 bolt not in the way of the cross pin?
G
goldwing2000
Guest
Nope. Pull the cross pin bolt and everything falls right out.
And it has marginally thicker axle shafts, too.
And it has marginally thicker axle shafts, too.
Clod_King
1/2 ton status
Really?
I thought the 10 bolt was a little bit weaker then the D44???
I thought the 10 bolt was a little bit weaker then the D44???
Thunder
3/4 ton status
10 bolts are no weaker than 44s. they are both almost the same. D44 have slightly thicker axle tubes, axels are at most only .003 thicker. 10 bolts have a little bigger pinnion.
If either breaks it will usually be the u joints, where the axle necks down, or a spyder gear. They are both equal in those departments.
If either breaks it will usually be the u joints, where the axle necks down, or a spyder gear. They are both equal in those departments.
G
goldwing2000
Guest
The D44 has a more necked-down portion of the inner axle shaft just before the splines. The 10-bolt is more uniform in diameter. I'll try to post a pic with measurements.
It's not enough to make you ditch your D44 for a 10-bolt but it's something to consider if you're contemplating a purchase.
It's not enough to make you ditch your D44 for a 10-bolt but it's something to consider if you're contemplating a purchase.
