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So after reading and asking, this is the big question. Need more opinions!

Should i swap to 3/4ton?

  • With all that abuse?! Hell Yeah! Axle Swap!

    Votes: 15 65.2%

  • Naw, thats baby stuff, keep the 10 bolts.

    Votes: 8 34.8%
  • Total voters
    23
i was going between the spring lift and shackle flip. Not sure whats better for abuse. If i was going to go through the effort of swaping axles i would go 3/4 ton. Axles are slim pickings around here, any i find would probably be in the yard and i dont know if stock 10 bolts came with 4.10s. If i did the swap i would find 3/4 tons in 4.10 and leave it be, i wouldnt spend the extra money to regear too. If i stayed with 10 bolts and spent the money to regear i would definetly drop it 4.56s.
 
900 for tires??? The raised letters must be gold plated for that price. You better shop somewhere else. I just bought a set of 33" Procomp MTs for $550 delivered to my door. Cost another 60 to mount and balance.
Also.
If you plan on seeing any air time with 10 bolts you better plan on getting some axle trusses.
 
i looked on tire rack and ebay. Where did you get yours? I was gonna go down to the local tire shop and see how much it would be through them.
 
okay guys, theoretically if i were to do an axle swap, what would you do first? Lift? or tires/rims/axles? I currently have 31 inch ATs with lots of tread left.
 
your ten bolts will handle that crap really well. find somebody who was in your position like i did who sold me the axles ready to go for cheap. way cheap compared to having it done.
 
What he said.

I'd buy the tires after the axles. You might find you can fit them without lifting 4".


Man, $900 for 33's is high. Do a search on ebay for "33 12.5 15" and I bet you can come up with better prices than that. PM me and I can send you some eBay sellers who have pretty good prices. At work now so I don't have their info here.
 
hell, you can go 1ton for about 3600bucks. and never look back. figure 1000-1300 for axles, look for CUCV axles, that way you get a detroit and 4.56's already... i bought mine for 1400 but have seen them for cheaper...


so lets say 1400 for axles
500 for lift/steering
200 for misc perches/ubolts
200 for rear disk conversion***NOT NECESSARY***
200 for front brakes/bearings
that still leaves 1100 bucks for tires/wheels....WOW!!!!

you can go one ton for under 3600 for sure...and that's estimating high on all those numbers
 
I remember when i had a 1/2 ton w/ 3.08's and 33's. This is what i did for a cheap gear change:

bought a 3/4 ton 3.73 front axle 10 bolt (just the housing w/ gears if you can). 100 bux or so, mine was free, laying around. (1/2 ton will work if its 3.73)

12 or 10 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gears. Either 5 or 6 lug as you can reuse your 6 lug shafts and brakes that are already bleed on the truck. 100 bux or so, i talked guy down to 60 because it had no brakes and a scar on axle shaft.

Bolt on new u-bolts, do not use old u-bolts.

Swap front brakes back to 1/2 ton to reuse your rims.
Go wheeling, everything should bolt up.

I had no lift and everything was cool, just some minor trimming.

If you wanna go cheap on the lift, get 52's from the rear of the truck and put them in the front, then get stock j/y springs for the rear and do a shackle flip.
 
well if i do 3/4 swap im going to need to do rims and tires with it, as ill need 8 lug and 16 inch rims. IF i stay stock 10b, i can keep the rims and go with 15 inch tires.
 
If you already have the wheels you want and really dont want to swap to 8 lug you could try to find a 6 lug 14sf. There are some with 4.10s (see them on ebay in New Jersey) and you could find a front 10 bolt with 4.10s I'm sure. They are not as strong as the ff but will handle 33s easily and will end up cheaper for ya.

4 Wheel parts has 33" BFG ATs for $158/tire.

Edit: Lockers for the 14sf cost more ($200-300) though.
 
That's a good recomendation for the use of a semifloating 14 bolt with the 9.5 inch ring gear. It's much stronger than the 10 bolt. Bigger axle shafts, ring and pinion, axle tubes, brakes. They can be found with a 6 lug pattern that will fit your current wheels. Should be available with 4.10 gears which is actually quite good for 33" tires and a 700-R4 (4L60) OD trans. The six lug version can be found in newer 1/2 ton 4x4 extended cab chevy trucks. I've seen them in the 1/2 ton Z71 trucks. Spring perches would need to be replaced/relocated. Anybody know if the driveshaft would bolt up. Probably a Saginaw 3R (S44) u-joint like the 10 bolt. I doubt it has a Spicer 1350 u-joint like the FF 14B. When the Blazer is lifted 4", the driveshaft length might be OK. Shaft would be too long if the Blazer is not lifted. Get the front r&p changed to 4.10. The front 10 bolt is full floating like all solid front axles. If you break a shaft, r&p, locker, etc., you can unlock the hubs and drive home with the rear drive train. The OEM front driveshaft works fine with a 4" lift but no more than 4". Tuff country 4" HD springs have very good reputation and are quite affordable. I really like the Off Road Design 4" shackle flip for the rear that I have. To save money you can use lift blocks on the rear. I ran lift blocks for years and honesly never had a problem. I've got a pair in my shed. Too bad you don,t live in AZ.

This setup would be pretty good with 33" tires. However, you must not jump the Blazer. You will bend or damage the front 10 bolt, springs, frame, etc. It is not an off-road racing vehicle. You could have a lot of fun with this setup, but keep it on the ground.
 
Dabba said:
i looked on tire rack and ebay. Where did you get yours? I was gonna go down to the local tire shop and see how much it would be through them.
Click to expand...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2503...001QQitemZ110219320401QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I guess with higher freight prices they are a bit more now. I bought mine on sale with Free shipping lin November. But still a lot cheaper than $900
I really like Procomps. I had BFG before and I like the procomps better. Quiter and are way better on snow and ice.

It is a good idea to check around locally too. With a local dealer it is easier to get warenty work done. Plus most offer free flat repair, Rotation, Lifetime balance. You wont get that with an internet tire.
 
m-4x4-chevy said:
That's a good recomendation for the use of a semifloating 14 bolt with the 9.5 inch ring gear. It's much stronger than the 10 bolt. Bigger axle shafts, ring and pinion, axle tubes, brakes. They can be found with a 6 lug pattern that will fit your current wheels. Should be available with 4.10 gears which is actually quite good for 33" tires and a 700-R4 (4L60) OD trans. The six lug version can be found in newer 1/2 ton 4x4 extended cab chevy trucks. I've seen them in the 1/2 ton Z71 trucks. Spring perches would need to be replaced/relocated. Anybody know if the driveshaft would bolt up. Probably a Saginaw 3R (S44) u-joint like the 10 bolt. I doubt it has a Spicer 1350 u-joint like the FF 14B. When the Blazer is lifted 4", the driveshaft length might be OK. Shaft would be too long if the Blazer is not lifted. Get the front r&p changed to 4.10. The front 10 bolt is full floating like all solid front axles. If you break a shaft, r&p, locker, etc., you can unlock the hubs and drive home with the rear drive train. The OEM front driveshaft works fine with a 4" lift but no more than 4". Tuff country 4" HD springs have very good reputation and are quite affordable. I really like the Off Road Design 4" shackle flip for the rear that I have. To save money you can use lift blocks on the rear. I ran lift blocks for years and honesly never had a problem. I've got a pair in my shed. Too bad you don,t live in AZ.
Click to expand...

You just need a conversion U-joint. Napa carries them.
 
305/70R16's:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-NE...emQQcategoryZ66474QQihZ009QQitemZ190192995737
That guy often has good prices on Kumho MT's too but doesn't look like he has any right now.

These guys are often selling good used tires for great prices:
http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/etiresmarket1/
Other times they have junk so read and think before you buy.

This guy is hit or miss but sometimes has good stuff:
http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/jtbdj5/

This guy always has pretty good deals:
http://stores.ebay.com/Macs-Tire-Bin_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm
Has several 33-ish sets in 15 and 16 right now.

Yadda yadda:
http://stores.ebay.com/Select-Tire_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

and again:
http://stores.ebay.com/tiresfast_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm
 
awesome! thanks for the links! I wont be able to move the spring perches, i wanted bolt in axles so itll be the 3/4tons. i was more interested in the fullfloat, its just no one has anything around here for 4x4ing. Either i get stuff new or a lucky find from a yard. Or i drive. Keeping the 10bolts would be much easier and cheaper, though i dont want to get stuck with a broken axle somewhere, and spend more money on new tires and rims after i spent money on 15 inch tires. I mean i live on long island, i dont do much with her, the jumping thing was a one time deal, i know the truck cant take that. the most ill do is speed across bumpy ground, wheels hardly ever leaving the ground. Its seems 50/50 on opinions so far. I know alot of people throw in heavier axles because they want to, im just considering mostly to make sure ill never be in a stuck situation and peice of mind. im just wondering if its warrented.
 
I like the Full Float better too. I got one from a wrecking yard with 4.10 gears. I rebuilt it but it would have driven fine with just oil & new brakes. Remember that any 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive 3/4 ton with the 14b full float will work. Should be some old 2 wheel drive full floats in the wrecking yards. Same as from a 4 wheel drive truck. 1 ton 14 bolt full float axles have different spring perch spacing and won't bolt up to Blazer spring spacing. May be time to go axle hunting. Get a gaurantee from the wrecking yard that it is in good working condition. Go for it.
 
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