So... finally getting around to designing my spare tire carrier, question about spindle

[blowedupmotor87]

I have Kert's hub and spindle kit:
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17786&cat=254&page=3

I'm wondering how y'all are using this? I can see frenching it into a bumper and welding it up but, I see no way at all to make it dual sheer??? Am I just being dense? Have y'all had good luck using it in single sheer with 37-40" tires? It certainly looks beefy but, that size of tire can put a lot of force onto a pivot point!!! Any input and/or pics would be appreciated, thanks!!!

 

[blowedupmotor87]

I will say the arm for the tire carrier will not be super long; likely 27" from center of spindle to center of tire so, significantly shorter than many designs I have seen.

 

[mechted]

A double shear hinge requires a different style completely. Many people are just using a "landing pad" and a solid latch to restrain the far end of the arm. I built mine very similar to this:

Single shear with landing pad for arm support
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/proj...difications-and-upgrades.317811/#post-3473982

My spindle is welding in at the top and bottom of the 3x6 box tube to properly support it. Havent taken mine offroad yet, but its super solid when folded in, and it swings out super easy with no verticle play.

Double shear hinge (different style completely)
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/72-k5-old-yeller-atf-leak.287152/page-44#post-3636866

 

[blowedupmotor87]

Thanks for the info and links mechted!!!

I am thinking I will use 1/8" wall DOM, or should I step up to 3/16 wall? My original plan was to use round tube (that .120 DOM) but now I am leaning toward 2x3 3/16 rectangular after looking at everybody's designs. The nice things with rectangular would be: more similar wall thickness to that of the spindle, easier to build (less complicated notching), and it saves the DOM for my bedcage/expo rack which will need all the DOM I have and then some! Also, would there be any worth to preheating the spindle housing prior to welding since it is 5/16 getting welded to .120 or 3/16 (depending on my design)??? Also, when welding the spindle shaft (1&1/16!) to its mounting surfaces (likely two planes of 1/4" plate with holesaws through) would it be wise to preheat that spindle shaft since it is solid and wildly thicker material than the plate?!??!

 

[nvrenuf]

What are you using for a latch? My wife's Jeep has a bumper with a spring loaded pin (different but same idea as the one seen in the second link), imo worst design ever. If I adjust the rubber bumper to make the carrier tight enough that it doesn't rattle, she can't open it. I'm thinking about changing it to a lever / lunch box type latch.

 

[blowedupmotor87]

As seldom as I will likely actually use the swing out, I could likely get way with sleeving the swing arm and bolting through it. The spare tire swing out will be for a bed mount with it swinging out to allow clearance for hauling large items in the bed, so likely won't need to swing it out often. For when I do, I could put a Jeep taillight on the swing arm to make up for the truck's taillight being completely blocked by the spare. The reason for the swing out is to allow for nearly full use of the box if needed without having to leave the spare out.
Terrible sketch:

Approximate spare position:

 

[mechted]

For that style (which I like for a pickup) I would look for a hinge system that can support both the top and bottom of the swing arm at the pivot. Maybe use something like this https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-mounted-bearings/=160amcz to support the top of the arm at the bed corner? With the tire out the back, and driving.... I dont think the spindle style hinge you have was ever intended to support that kind of dynamic load.

You are going to have a lot of load on the corner of the bed. Especially if the swing arm is out towards the rear. Not sure if you are going to have to reinforce things or not. My best guess is build it and see how stable it is, then mount a tire to it, then try to move the truck from the swing arm and see how things feel. My gut feeling is that there is going to have to be some reinforcement structure under the bed floor to mount the hinge.

 

[blowedupmotor87]

For that style (which I like for a pickup) I would look for a hinge system that can support both the top and bottom of the swing arm at the pivot. Maybe use something like this https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-mounted-bearings/=160amcz to support the top of the arm at the bed corner? With the tire out the back, and driving.... I dont think the spindle style hinge you have was ever intended to support that kind of dynamic load.

You are going to have a lot of load on the corner of the bed. Especially if the swing arm is out towards the rear. Not sure if you are going to have to reinforce things or not. My best guess is build it and see how stable it is, then mount a tire to it, then try to move the truck from the swing arm and see how things feel. My gut feeling is that there is going to have to be some reinforcement structure under the bed floor to mount the hinge.

I'm planning to make a lock arm piece that I'll keep in my tool box to secure the swingarm when it is in the out swung position. (that way it won't be moving at all)

The spindle mount will be through the bed floor, built into the rear bumper (rear bumper will wrap around the bottom of the fenders) so, should be plenty sturdy. (well, I am still debating, the spindle may mount to either the bumper OR the bedcage that I intend to build, either way, it'll ultimately tie down to the frame. The bed cage will be isolated from the frame though, via bushings. (DIY4x big bore fabricator set) Bed cage will be 2" .120 wall DOM)

 

[mechted]

If you are going to have a bed cage, why not just make it so there is a vertical tube in corner, and then use a standard DIY4X fabricators bushing and tube tab set (upper and lower, so 2 sets) to make the swing out arm support tie to the cage? It doesnt sound like this will be a component that moves all that often... just use the bushing sets and get a good alignment and no need for a spindle and bearing setup at all. And you can adjust the tension of the "hinge" by the bolts, so it wont move unless you pull on it. I would still want some sort of support and latch at the far end of the swing arm when stowed, because tires are heavy.

Look at images of a "swing down" tire carrier... just rotate it to vertical and make it a swing out.

 

[blowedupmotor87]

If you are going to have a bed cage, why not just make it so there is a vertical tube in corner, and then use a standard DIY4X fabricators bushing and tube tab set (upper and lower, so 2 sets) to make the swing out arm support tie to the cage? It doesnt sound like this will be a component that moves all that often... just use the bushing sets and get a good alignment and no need for a spindle and bearing setup at all. And you can adjust the tension of the "hinge" by the bolts, so it wont move unless you pull on it. I would still want some sort of support and latch at the far end of the swing arm when stowed, because tires are heavy.

Look at images of a "swing down" tire carrier... just rotate it to vertical and make it a swing out.

It's still a debate as to whether I will build the carrier to the cage as I want to make the cage removable for times when I have to move things like furniture, or have to get cubic yards of mulch, sand, etc dumped into the bed for projects. I am leaning toward the carrier being mounted through the bed to the bumper assembly so that it can be used independently. To facilitate that, the spindle would be the better option.

The plan is for the swing arm will be locked with a latch or bolt (on the opposite end of the arm from the spindle or, at least 12" removed from the spindle if positioned on the same side of the tire) when in the normal (inward) position.

I already have the DIY4x spindle. So, there's that motivation to use it, lol! Plus, the smooth swing action of it would be nice.