well just the tool of choice you know...just would hate to get it all done and find out there is a easier,cheaper,faster way...i know you can use the sazall but im just not to kosher with it
CK5
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so i have this set of tsls
- Thread starter twoslo4five0
- Start date
dont take this the wrong way but the way rubber reacts to stuff like you want to use you might be the next darwin award winner.
sawzall / router / chainsaw / other high speed moving blade tools = bad things.
sawzall / router / chainsaw / other high speed moving blade tools = bad things.
exactly. a tire groover is designed to do what you want to do with it. the blades are numbered, don't get anything bigger then a #8 blade. I have ones wider then that and they cut terribly. its simply to much rubber to push through and the blade cools off and dulls. its easier to make more passes with a smaller blade.
my tires hook up fine with a lot less grooving then you are talking about. just carve through the centers of each tread block and freshen up all the edges. no need to remove half of a tread block. its the edges that do the grabbing, not the large lack of tread. there is enough meat in a swamper carcass that you can groove the stock openings deeper. I have started doing it to mine.
I have seen comp guys use a grinder to touch up there groove job before a run. remember you are after edges, lots of them.
I vote using the groover after you heat the tires (like with a torpedo heater). FYI the people that use a sawzall usually grind the teeth off so that it is basically a knife. And I wouldn't use water in your tires. Thats really only beneficial (sp?) in light weight buggys
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=654319&highlight=cutting+tsls
there is plenty of people using this method
im sure groving works just fine but im shooting for something diffrent..i have 200 bucks in theese 42 so its not like im cutting up a brand new set...i wanna see how this lug method works
But don't you have to compare it to something? Run them like they are first, then groove them.....The only way to "See how this lug method works".
i was thinking about that 2 day
You never know until you try. Might just find, If you run low enough pressure....You might nor even need to groove that heavy.
you got to admit it thought they do look badass
If you don't groove them, you won't know how much better they could have been
I'd groove them, especially given their low tread depth. Hell, I'd almost look into how thick the tire is in the tread area and consider taking some rubber out in the voids to make the tread deeper again.
Of course, this is probably only good for a trailer queen
it does not matter what your tire looks like if you can't make it to the top of an obstacle.
"have fun on the rest of the trail guys, I'm gonna hang here with my cool looking tires that suck."
cut the tread blocks in half. then you will have doubled the traction edges that are perpendicular to the trail. if thats not enough then you can destroy the tire by removing half the tread block.
my old 38" tsls i did only the middle sections cut to 3 blocks like most do. then went snow wheeling again and wow i got more traction in the snow with just that done.
People run water in the tires to lower the COG.
Sure, its a little harder on the drivetrain just like any added weight. A few hundred pounds of water is just as hard on the drivetrain as a few hundred pounds of sheetmetal etc.
The two cool things about adding water to the tires are that they add weight at the lowest part of the rig and don't add any more inertia to the tire/wheel (i.e. if the tire is spinning and suddenly comes to a stop, the water will still flow inside the tire and won't be forced to a sudden stop like the wheel/tire. This won't hurt shafts like a heavier wheel and tire will).
Here are a couple buggies with water in their tires:
That's keeping a low COG
I don't run water in my tires but I don't think its a bad idea at all for a trail only rig.
I know quite a few people that have tried it......and they dont think it makes your rig work any better. I guess you never know until you try it yourself.People run water in the tires to lower the COG.
Sure, its a little harder on the drivetrain just like any added weight. A few hundred pounds of water is just as hard on the drivetrain as a few hundred pounds of sheetmetal etc.
The two cool things about adding water to the tires are that they add weight at the lowest part of the rig and don't add any more inertia to the tire/wheel (i.e. if the tire is spinning and suddenly comes to a stop, the water will still flow inside the tire and won't be forced to a sudden stop like the wheel/tire. This won't hurt shafts like a heavier wheel and tire will).
Here are a couple buggies with water in their tires:
That's keeping a low COG
I don't run water in my tires but I don't think its a bad idea at all for a trail only rig.
i think i might have to and see how it goes
i got my grover.about to get started tomm finnaly.i ordered my blades.i think i may have ordered a little large but my groover takes diffrent blades than most.here is what im working with
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Instant-On-Tire-Groovers,2674.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Instant-On-Tire-Groovers,2674.html
seen that.im gonna do mine a little diffrent
