So I just bought a 6.0...

[ashman]

Time to pick some brains! I've got a 2003 6.0 letter U engine that I'm putting in my '72 blazer.
I'm going to need all sorts of advice obviously and I've got plenty of thread links to follow but I figured since I'm starting fresh I'd ask for any "before you get started" advice.

Once I get it cleaned up, what should I start on first? Who should I contact to program the computer? I think some of the guys on here can do it, right?

 

[bigblock72]

Which transmission are you going to use? Need to make sure you have the correct flexplate combination to match your trans.

Replace the rear main seal and the gasket on the piece the rear main goes in.

Remove and cap the cooler line port on the oil pan. Cap and bolts easily sourced from the dealer.

What gauges are you going to use? You'll need the adapters for the sending units.

You'll likely want slotted motor mount plates as the engine may need to be moved forward from the small block position in order to clear the firewall. I had to move mine forward almost two inches.

I can program your computer as can Eagle Mark and there is a couple more but I can't think who right now.

 

[blazinzuk]

Voodoo injection in Boise. He does harnesses and has done enough motors he has a very good handle on things

 

[K85 Octane]

To add a couple things for now

Oil pan, intake, lifter valley, valve cover gaskets
Mine as well replace the water pump, I've heard mixed reviews about them
When you send in your computer, you'll more than likely send in the TAC module, harness, TB, pedal, and ECM. So you'll need a new TB O-ring gasket. Make sure all that stuff came from the vehicle your engine came from, or another vehicle the same year and build. Otherwise, it's a small PITA to mix and match.

I used TBSS manifolds, fit great. Also used CPP adjustable engine mounts. Unless you are willing to cut the frame and rework it a little, you wont be fitting the stock AC compressor in it's stock location. OR, you might be able to fit it, but good luck replacing it when the time comes. Some aftermarket AC companies (Vintage and OldAir) have complained about the stock compressors being variable. Says it messes up their system or something. I guess the compressors have a variable valve inside them instead of just running the clutch ON/OFF for pressure. (NOT entire sure about this) So I'm going with a top mounted compressor and mount that incorporates the belt tensioner from OldAir.

 

[ashman]

Which transmission are you going to use? Need to make sure you have the correct flexplate combination to match your trans.

Right now I have an NV4500 using an Advance Adapters bellhousing. For now I was planning on just keeping that.

Replace the rear main seal and the gasket on the piece the rear main goes in.

Even if it's not leaking now? Just in case?

Remove and cap the cooler line port on the oil pan. Cap and bolts easily sourced from the dealer.

What gauges are you going to use? You'll need the adapters for the sending units.

another thing I need to look into...

You'll likely want slotted motor mount plates as the engine may need to be moved forward from the small block position in order to clear the firewall. I had to move mine forward almost two inches.

I looked through your build thread a bit and I saw that you made your own mounts. I recall hearing good things about Dirty Dingo mounts. anyone heard anything negative?

I can program your computer as can Eagle Mark and there is a couple more but I can't think who right now.

Thats good to know, thanks!

Voodoo injection in Boise. He does harnesses and has done enough motors he has a very good handle on things

coolio, I'll look into that. I'm actually going to be heading up to Boise early next month so that might work out.

Oil pan, intake, lifter valley, valve cover gaskets

So basically replace all the gaskets while I have it out? If it wasn't leaking I was planning on leaving it alone. Bad idea?
I hadn't heard anything bad about the water pumps. I'll check into it though.
You got a link for CCP engine mounts?

As far as the AC stuff goes, I don't have AC now, so I was thinking of eliminating it. Although, if I can make it work it would be a nice addition. Certainly low on the priority list though.

 

[79bonanza]

I have a set of dirty dingo swap mounts on mine and personally I think they suck, seemed weak and kinda cheesy to me, I'm gonna swap mine for the diy4x kit.

 

[ashman]

With the addition of the Z06 / LS6 camshaft it is estimated that it pushes the 5.3L to 350+hp, and the 6.0L to 375+hp.

Any upgrades like this that I should consider doing while I'm at it?

 

[ashman]

I have a set of dirty dingo swap mounts on mine and personally I think they suck, seemed weak and kinda cheesy to me, I'm gonna swap mine for the diy4x kit.

good to know. Thanks. I'll look into seeing if diy4x makes a set that will work for a 1st gen.

 

[79bonanza]

Oh I didn't realize your k5 was a first gen. I'm stuck in a square body state of mind lol

 

[bigblock72]

Check with AA to get the correct flywheel, I don't know if there will be anything else that will have to be changed, never adapted a manual trans to an LS.


Most rear mains like to leak by 120k and it is so much easier to fix now.


I've never used the Dirty Dingo mounts and probably never will. Check with DIY or ORD and see what they have or just get some slotted plates off of ebay to use with your original mounts.


I wouldn't be to worried about the rest of the gaskets, they usually hold up ok and are easy enough to change later.


The water pumps do like to leak but are easy to change later.