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So I'm doing a cab swap!!!!!!!!!!

Corey 78K5

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Good Lord is it easy (so far).
I have a totally clean 76 C-20 that I love other than the fact that it is a C-20 :o I got a 73 K-20 today with good drive train. It only took Me an hour and a half to remove the crappy old body, and that was doing it right no chopping or anything. The way I figure it should only take a total of 8-12 hours to complete the job. I'm gonna keep it basically stock and use it for a future tow rig for the Blazer. I probably will do some engine mods later on for more torque but the suspension will stay stock.
 
I got about that far one night, but decided to stop because I wanted to swap entire interiors, and I never figured out about the wiring. What do you plan to do for the wiring harness? I had a lot of accessories in my cab that weren't in my new cab. I decided it was more of a one week job and quit until I swap the carb body on my K20 ;)
 
There is no wire harness problems. You have the wires to the distributor, alternator, temp sending unit and starter and a couple more running to the back that just plug into the firewall.
 
Cant wait to see some pics.. are you taking pics along the way to show progress, or are you just going to show the finished result?
 
Corey 78K5 said:
Good Lord is it easy (so far).
I have a totally clean 76 C-20 that I love other than the fact that it is a C-20 :o I got a 73 K-20 today with good drive train. It only took Me an hour and a half to remove the crappy old body, and that was doing it right no chopping or anything. The way I figure it should only take a total of 8-12 hours to complete the job. I'm gonna keep it basically stock and use it for a future tow rig for the Blazer. I probably will do some engine mods later on for more torque but the suspension will stay stock.

Been there done that. Putting a C-20 cab on a K-20 frame. If I understand that correctly you will not be able to get it to fit without doing some cutting and welding. The 2wd C-20 cab does not have a t-case hump nor is the trans hump unbolts for t-case linkage access. When I did mine, I cut out the t-case hump (drilled out factory spot welds and removed the panel out of the old cab) and cut out the same hole in the floor on the C-20 cab and welded the t-case hump into the new cab and welded some nuts to the under side so I could bolt the trans hump in. Looks exactly like stock after I was finished. Didn't take to long, just a little longer than 8 hours.
 
if your goin to keep it stock, it probably wont hurt to put 1"or 2 body lift to help clearence on the tcase and tranny.
 
When I did mine, I had a three inch body lift so it put the shifters back at the same height they were before the body lift with the "K" cab. I just cut holes for the shifters in the floor using the "K" pan as a template.
 
79chevyk10 said:
Been there done that. Putting a C-20 cab on a K-20 frame. If I understand that correctly you will not be able to get it to fit without doing some cutting and welding. The 2wd C-20 cab does not have a t-case hump nor is the trans hump unbolts for t-case linkage access. When I did mine, I cut out the t-case hump (drilled out factory spot welds and removed the panel out of the old cab) and cut out the same hole in the floor on the C-20 cab and welded the t-case hump into the new cab and welded some nuts to the under side so I could bolt the trans hump in. Looks exactly like stock after I was finished. Didn't take to long, just a little longer than 8 hours.
I guess thats the reason I pulled the tranny cover off the old cab :wink1: :deal: I made sure I did some home work before I started this project. Good ideal on drilling out the old welds. I was just gonna use the sawsall and stick the 4x4 cover over it and cover it with carpet, but Your ideal would be much cleaner. I do not want to use a body lift cause I just dont care for them. Besides I have brand new tires that fit perfect on a stock truck.
 
k5 krawler 50 said:
Cant wait to see some pics.. are you taking pics along the way to show progress, or are you just going to show the finished result?
Well My wife is out of state with the cam and I hope to have the swap done this weekend before She gets back. So it looks like it will be after shots. It should look sweet with the aluminium 03 Chevy HD wheels I have for it.
 
i think the reference to the body lift was made not for tires, but for transmission access.

A 1 or 2" body lift makes pulling the transmission out so much easier and working on many other things for that matter. They don't look good, but when you work on your truck, or one with one, you can appreciate them.

another way for easy access to the trans bolts is to just remove the tunnel. to have it bolt it, rather than weld it back in or anything.
 

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