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So the last step before it runs

wilpetty

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Okay so we are finally ready to crank the motor last night and When we do it cranks and feels like its about to start but doesnt. Timing should be fairly close as we put distributor in top dead center and faced it towards plug#1...Vacuum lines are capped off with those plastic deals, and a few sensors probably arent plugged up. What I know: Its getting gas as we saw it squirt in carb, It has spark, and it is really close to starting. Will try to get timing better but any other suggestions on what to check for to try and get this bad boy runnin? Thanks guys :D
 
if it acts like it wants to start, you probably need more timing. Do you have somebody that is very familiar with these kinds of things that can help you get it going quicker? All this cranking and not running is hard on a new cam.
 
My brother is a mechanic and father-in-law went to lincoln tech so they both know. More timing is pulling distributor and putting it back in facing more towards cylinder 1 correct?
 
yea make sure the engine is actually at TDC on the compression stroke for cyl. 1. Even if the mark on the balancer lines up it could be 180 degrees off.
 
While I was turning the harmonic balancer clockwise air was blowing out so I am pretty sure its not 180 out, will keep you updated tonight if we find the problem:waytogo:
 
is it backfiring or anything weird? If not just advance (turn distributor counter clockwise) timing. dont pull the distributor back out.
 
It was backfiring! So we will turin it like you said. We even caught fire once and I freaked out and tried to blow it out while my brother lauhed:rolleyes:
 
Anybody here, who has done any serious work on an engine, especially carbed engines and ignition work, who says they have never had a carb fire.....................................................................................................................................

Is probably lying!!

I can think of three for me right off the top of my head.
 
Turned it and no luck, even restabbed the dist. to make sure we werent 180 out. Same results just backfiring and struggling to try and start
 
Got it running guys! Problem was the firing order was all wrong:rolleyes: Well its all good now and it seems like the timing is really close to being spot on. Idles on its own and everything so I am super excited tonight:woot:
 
It's a rebuilt long block from city motors and I'm going to let it idle today...don't want to drive it until we fix water pump leak etc
 
Thanks! Fender trimming and radio tomorrow, water pump sunday then all cosmetic things until the deer lease saturday! Many pics to come:waytogo:
 
Well we are taking off water pump Sunday so I didn't really want to drive it. How do you break in the cam, and motor in general? Just drive it around easy for 1000 miles is my guess?
 
You have to run it at different rpms at the right intervals. Once you have it running I don't think you're supposed to stop it or you can mess up the cam.heres what I found on search:

How To Break in a Rebuilt Chevy Motor
By Jessica Mahoney, eHow Contributor
After installing or rebuilding an engine, it must be broken in to seat the new piston compression rings to the cylinder walls. Proper break-in will maximize your engine's power output and minimize oil consumption. Properly seated piston rings prevent combustion gases from escaping the combustion chamber into the crankcase of the engine. This keeps your engine running cleaner and smoother. To properly break in a Chevy engine, a few pre-start steps need to be performed. These steps can be performed by anyone with basic mechanical knowledge. Refer to the vehicle's service manual on fluid levels, fluid specifications, torque specifications and any other needed information.



Things You'll Need
(Tap on items you have)

Timing light
Mechanic's socket set
SAE and Metric wrench set
Flat head and Phillips screwdrivers
Assorted pliers
Engine oil
Oil filter
Brake fluid
Anti-freeze
Power steering fluid
Automatic transmission fluid
Shop rags
Steps (Tap on step to mark as complete)

Pre-Start

Step 1 of 4
Check the oil level by removing the dipstick and reading the oil level marks. Before checking the oil level, make sure the vehicle is sitting level. If the oil and filter are not installed, install them now.

Step 2 of 4
Check the brake, power steering, anti-freeze and transmission fluid levels. Fill them to their proper levels. It is important to use new fluids when breaking in a newly rebuilt engine to avoid premature wear and parts failure.

Step 3 of 4
Check all the wires, connectors, hoses, and throttle cables or linkages for proper connection and to ensure they are tight.

Step 4 of 4
Check the battery for proper connection and charge.

Break-in

Step 1 of 7
Start the engine and let it warm up.

Step 2 of 7
Check the timing and make any necessary timing adjustments at this time (carburetor, throttle body, etc.).

Step 3 of 7
Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM for 30 minutes. Do NOT raise and lower the RPM. Keeping a steady RPM reading is key to proper engine break-in.

Step 4 of 7
Idle the engine for 15 minutes. Take this time to check for any fluid leaks on top of the engine, as well as under the vehicle.

Step 5 of 7
Drive the vehicle for approximately 40 to 50 miles, listening for any knocks, detonation pings, or other odd noises. Drive the vehicle up hills. This will make the engine work hard to properly seat the piston rings.

Step 6 of 7
Recheck all of the vehicles fluid levels and top off, if needed.

Step 7 of 7
Replace the engine oil and filter after the first 100 miles of engine use to ensure that there are no harmful metal shavings or filings which may scratch the cylinder walls or cause premature bearing failure.

Tips & Warnings

It is recommended that the engine be run under normal driving conditions for the first 500 miles to ensure proper seating of the bearings, valves, camshaft, and lifters. Hard launches, drag racing, or fast acceleration are not recommended until after the engine has had the proper break-in period.


Related Articles & Videos

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How to Rebuild a Lower End Suzuki Outboard Motor
How to Install Pistons in a Small Block Chevy
How to Mount a Motor
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References

Recommended Engine Break-in Procedure
Read Next Article:
How to Break in an Outboard Motor With a Fresh Rebuild
 
No not at all.

In order to break in a flat tappet cam you vary the engine speed from 1500 to 2500 to 2000 to 2500 to 1500 to 2500 and then down to idle. Each speed should be held for about 2-3 minutes. You can repeat the process and all in all it should take 15-20mins for break in.

In order to seat new rings the best thing in the world for it is to take the truck out once its in good running order and beat the balls off of it. Heavy throttle is good for it. Only takes about 100 miles for the rings to seat like that.

The other train of though is to simply baby the motor for the first 500 miles. Either way the oil should be change after the first 500 miles. Ive read and seen quite a few articles on seating rings by being hard on the motor. When torn back down afterwards the improved seating from said method is impressive but there are still some guys out there that like to live by methods from 60 years ago and baby the motor. Im not saying its wrong or bad its simply not as good as romping on it to break it in. And Im sure someone on here will disagree with me.

How ever theres no if, ands, or buts thats how you break in a flat tappet cam.

I hate to be a dick but it really sounds like the 3 of you bit off more than you can chew... :dunno:
 
Everybody's got their own preferences. This one is the one I've most commonly heard being used. Some people wil build it and run the crap out of it from the start and have no problems. I'd rather not have something bad happen after the work and money input into a new engine if it doesn't hold up.
 
We did for sure hahaha but we are finally there and that's what counts! Now goin to break it in, thanks for the help! If I knew exactly what I was doing I wouldn't ask such simple questions lol
 
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