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So, who has a doubler? I need answers (Pics)

Desert Rat

Desert Rat

Fetch the comfy chair
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Ok, as I posted in another thread called "Tremendous Personal Sacrifice" I picked up a doubler setup for my 76 Blazer. My setup is a 350/700r4/NP203 range box/NP205. I assembled it and went to install it but ran into floorboard clearance problems. I had to cut a hole in the center tunnel like this:

8443Tunnel_2.jpg


Now I have no clearance problems but it was irritating since I really only needed about a half an inch and would've been good to go as illustrated in these two pics:

8443Tunnel_1.jpg

8443Tunnel_3.jpg


Once I got it installed, I noticed a couple of things. Although the doubler setup sits level on the ground, and the two adapters seem to be level on the bottom, once you get it installed it hangs down at a considerable angle. I was trying to figure out what kind of crossmember setup I wanted to settle on. I thought about using the stock one up front, as you see in the pics, and another stock one in the rear. I had to cut a notch in the rear one to accomodate the NP205 hanging down a bit. But, I found out that with the angle I would have to fab up some custom rubber mounts to handle the reduced space between the rear adapter and the crossmember. Here is the angle now with just the front crossmember done:

8443Doubler_hang.jpg


My question for you folks who have done a doubler, what did you do for a crossmember? Any pictures would be great. I also noticed that the front output looks like it might not have to have the crossmember cut and looped, but I don't have the front driveshaft available yet to put up to see.
 
huh? I had to do no midifications to my floorboard on either of the trucks i put the doubler in (83 pickup and 74 blazer)

for the crossmember i used 2 origionals unmodified. the future plan is to use the origional mounting areas of the origional CM's and build tubing around them. I have drawings of them at the shop and will post them when i get a chance.
 
SCOOBYDANNN said:
huh? I had to do no midifications to my floorboard on either of the trucks i put the doubler in (83 pickup and 74 blazer)

for the crossmember i used 2 origionals unmodified. the future plan is to use the origional mounting areas of the origional CM's and build tubing around them. I have drawings of them at the shop and will post them when i get a chance.
Click to expand...

What Desert Rat keeps forgetting to put in his sig (hint hint :) ) is that the truck has a 700R4, which is bloody long, so the doubler is waaay farther back than those of us with 3-speed autos.

-- A
 
What you are missing is that drivelines are angled down towards the rear. Its what is done factory and mostly aftermarket. It helps with rear driveline angles, otherwise I have no idea why its done. You will notice that most carburated intakes have an angle on the carb mounting surface. Its to make the carb sit level, on the unlevel motor. That with the extra weight you have hanging off the back, is the likely cause of the lean back.
 
Desert Rat said:
My question for you folks who have done a doubler, what did you do for a crossmember? Any pictures would be great. I also noticed that the front output looks like it might not have to have the crossmember cut and looped, but I don't have the front driveshaft available yet to put up to see.
Click to expand...

Ohh ... coupla things. The Gen2 doublers are short enough that ORD says you may not need to hoop/notch the front x-member on short lifts, like mine. I *think* yours is big enough you may need to do some tweaking (the cutoff is ~4", which you are past :) )

Stephen also mentioned that shimming the rear x-member can be expected, I believe due to the backwards tilt of the drivetrain that Sled Dog mentioned.

-- A
 
SCOOBYDANNN said:
i see said the blind man to the deaf dog.
Click to expand...

What? :) ... I was addressing the sheetmetal part of his post, not the x-member part. He's got a long tranny in a space made for a shorter one, so it makes sense, no?

-- A
 
clearance issues as stated could be the extran 1.5 (i think...?) inches from the 700r and MAYBE your ody mounts are worn? i see you have polly bushings on your trans x-member... maybe its time for a set for the body?
ya might already have them and it might just be the 700r4 length thing also. i have yet to instal mine in my blazer, but if i need floor board clearance, and i have new polly bushings, then i will get the BFH out. in your case... i would round out those corners on the hole you cut in the floor and on the panel, weld in some 14ga sheet around the edges and get some dzus fastners and weather strip. would make it nice for later access to parts. e.g. u-joint swaps w.o getting under the truck....
Grant
 
:D Thats a small hole.

I have a hole that goes from the bell housing to the rear output.My rear output is inside the cab and the shift rails on the 205 are even with the floor.

But thats cuz I raised the drivtrain up 2 3/4" so I could have a flat belly :p:
 
I had to put a 1 inch body lift on mine and still had to cut out the floor but my 205 is rotated but both my crossmembers fit no problem
 
I don't have a Doubler, but why not move that crossmember back to the Doubler itself? It looks like from the picture that if you move the crossmember back, it may raise the who thing slightly. I don't know, but when you look at the pic, the setup looks like its sitting low and if you move the member back, it may go up slightly? :confused:
 
For Scoobydann, I'm guessing you were able to use the two original crossmembers because you rotated your NP205 up? I left mine in stock rotation so I would have better front driveline angles. As a result, the bottom of part of the NP205 hits the rear crossmember necessating me to notch it if I want to use it.

For Sled_dog, I knew that it was already angled. But, I was surprised that the TC setup seems to be angled even more than the tranny. It seemed before that the TC's were more in line with the same angle as the bottom of the tranny pan. You can see in that one pic that the TC's have more angle than the tranny pan does.

For Seventy4Blazer, the TC/Tranny mount bushings there are cheap new rubber ones from a local parts store. I didn't go poly on the new engine mounts so I didn't want to mix and match. I also didn't want to spend big bucks since I may go with a custom setup from somebody (hopefully MOO) soon. Also, in retrospect, now seeing how little clearance I actually needed, I probably could've gotten out the BFH and taken care of what I needed. I also could've swapped the rear TC vent tube fitting for a 90 degree one that didn't stick straight up. However, I also like the accessability that this gives me. Installing the triple sticks should be a breeze between the hole and the front cover that I can remove too. I plan on fabbing up another sheetmetal cover that bolts in like the one farther forward.

For thatK30guy, with the doubler setup, you have two adapters. I have a crossmember on the front one, and I want to put another one on the ORD doubler adapter that is farther to the rear. As Dremu said, I may just have to either put spacers on the stock crossmember to drop it a bit, or maybe shave some stock bushings to make them shorter. If I stay with stock crossmembers, I'm leaning towards shaving the bushings so the crossmembers would line up and I can fab up a skid plate for them. I'd prefer a custom setup from somebody but unfortunately 4x4Iron went out of business.

I'd still like to see any pics anybody has of their setup. I suspect most of you who have the stock ones in place clocked their TC's.
 
I've got an 88 K5 with a 350/Th400/203/205, under the 203 adapter I used the stock crossmember, then I put another 203 crossmember under the doubler adapter. Where mine was it was sitting about an inch below the frame and also was too narrow for the frame. Where I needed to bolt it up the frame, the frame got wider right there for some reason. I got two short pieces of about 4x4 angle iron, bolted them to the crossmember, and then bolted the other side of the angle iron to the side of the frame and it works fine. For the floor, I just hit it with a BFH and it allowed it to fit. I can get pics if you need them.
 
I'd like to see pics. My frame is pretty much parallel so I don't have to worry about that spread that the later model frames have. Did you put a spacer on it, or did you use a smaller bushing to compensate for the droop of the NP205 as it continues to angle down?
 
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