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SoCal '85 6.2L Jimmy build

solvire

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 3, 2011
Posts
143
Reaction score
37
Location
SoCal
Hey everyone
My second post. Figured it was time to get going on my build.

First thing was steering. It was terrerizin to drive this bugger. PO hooked me up with some nice "features" to follow.

Prob need to get some image hosting huh.
I need to post 5 times to be able to post links to my photo bucket account so I am going to go troll around.

But in the mean time...


Welcome.

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steering

So steering was sloptastic. It was all over the road. Reminded me of when I had a CJ5 who like to steer herself.

I went to a junk yard in sunland to fish out an XJ shaft. The dude didn't know which shaft was which but pointed me to a pile of them. I picked up one i thought was right given the two types of ends. I should have brought some calipers with me to get the proper dimensions. None of the shafts were labeled. I got one that probably would have fit but it was about 3 inches too long. So I went back to get what I think was a YJ shaft. Not sure though. This was fit but one side was too small. I thought about boring it out but figured I'd just invest in an angle grinder and zip it off and splice the firewall side to the other shaft.

I had to take it to a guy down the road that puts together bumpers and other big metal fab.
Eckharts Trailer Hitch & Welding - reseda btw
good dudes.

It is a little ugly yes. But it is strong and has plenty of collapse. Or should at least.

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steering II

Got the new shaft in there.

Might I add that it gives me great pleasure to run an angle grinder on something and rip through metal. First time for me.

Steering improved probably only 30%. So i figured there was something else very wrong and time to dig in more.

There was a leak on the PS box but that shouldn't do much.
I really noticed what was going on when I was checking to see where the play was. I twisted the steering wheel and watched the box MOVE. I almost didn't poop myself seeing that. I got under there and the nuts are only hand tight.

Climbed under and got some pics of it. Lots of broken metal and missing bolts. PO saved some coin by going low grade bolts too.


I've been looking at the steering brace listed here in product reviews and I really think I should opt for that. Plus with all the broken metal i'm going to have to get some more meat in there.

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BTW i am probably going to have to do some welding and I don't really know how.

If there is a noob weld thread point me to it. I'm gonna use the search function for a bit. My brother welds, but is in another state and I have been trying to glean as much info from his as possible. The machine should pay for itself by the time this is done.
 
Welcome. They ORD also has a bolt on steering box brace kit too, might check it out ....
 
Thanks for the tips gents! I'll check out ORD.

I'm in Encino.
 
BTW i am probably going to have to do some welding and I don't really know how.

If there is a noob weld thread point me to it. I'm gonna use the search function for a bit. My brother welds, but is in another state and I have been trying to glean as much info from his as possible. The machine should pay for itself by the time this is done.


http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292983, this thread has some good info for noob welders with some cheap welder advice as well.
 
Thanks for the link big dan,
There are some cracks and lots of corrosion where things were damaged. I think for the time being i'm going to clean out the rust and put in some big washers with some heavier bolts. That should give me time to figure out what I want to do for welding. Also looks like there might have been repairs done before, albeit poorly.
 
Well got the bolts tightened up and now the steering isn't pure slop. That will have to do until I can get the steering brace in there. Right now I don't have loctite or heavy bolts so I am going to need to replace that stuff.

I need to replace the seal on the steering box where the shaft attaches. Kinda worried that I might screw that but but given the other threads here it seems fairly simple. o-rings and pry out the seal.
 
The rear window will not roll down. I don't think I have connection to it because nothing is happening at all. Both electric windows move down too slow. There is no dome light. Only one speaker works. There are no fully illuminated gauges in the cluster. I can barely make out speed while driving at night.

It appears that I might just need to start redoing all the electrical which I am not looking forward to. Painless wiring harness? Anyone have a difficulty assessment with the wiring harness replacement? I'm not good with electrical so if there is a good book for the noob great. I also want to get that dash from diy4x. Maybe time to pony up the coin.

Until later, Beer time...
 
you can always temporarily move the window by hooking up a battery to the wires that go into the tailgate. Ground one to the frame and one on the wire. I can't remember the up/down colors. There is a water tight connection at the tailgate and one at the firewall near the booster. Make sure both are connected.

If hooking up a battery to the tailgate connect doesn't work, you'll need to dive into the tailgate and figure out what's wrong. The side windows always move slow until you open the doors and clean/lube the system. A "window relay mod" also helps move them faster. Search for that, many threads.

The gauges and dome light are just things you'll need to hunt down. The gauges use several bulbs to light things. Since you have it apart, now would be a good time to spray paint the gauge holder chrome or something, helps bounce light around and make it brighter. Topper light gets power from the wires behind the driver seat, check for 12v there. The hardtop portion gets power (IIRC) from the passenger side A pillar wires. I think I remember seeing some go up into that area.
 
The rear window will not roll down. I don't think I have connection to it because nothing is happening at all. Both electric windows move down too slow. There is no dome light. Only one speaker works. There are no fully illuminated gauges in the cluster. I can barely make out speed while driving at night.

It appears that I might just need to start redoing all the electrical which I am not looking forward to. Painless wiring harness? Anyone have a difficulty assessment with the wiring harness replacement? I'm not good with electrical so if there is a good book for the noob great. I also want to get that dash from diy4x. Maybe time to pony up the coin.

Until later, Beer time...

Rear window you need to search on, there is a little wire in the back that prevents the window from rolling up or down when the tailgate is down, cut that wire, connect to itself. The switch is more than likely bad.

Dash lights, disassemble dash put new lights in, put LEDs in if you want super bright, the fully lit fully functioning dash lights do not spread the light evenly but bright enough to read everything.

Dome light could be alot of things, the switches in the doors could be bad, fuse, disconnected etc. Took me about an hour to figure mine out.

Windows going up and down slow is well an issue get used to it. I remember some of these trucks brand new, the power windows were not speedy. Lube the tracks up and I bet it makes a huge difference.

Remember the painless harness and other replacement harnesses replace the wiring, it sounds like most of your problems are not the wiring but what is connected to the wiring. So a harness will not solve any problems at all.

Electrical kind of sucks but its not that hard. Take your time fix things one at a time. Buy a good multimeter and figure out how to use it.

I don't think a replacement harness will fix a single problem you are currently having
 
Oh one more thing I really like your truck.

Just like mine except a bit older.

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Even a Goofy Made Chevy like mine.

Lemme know if you need help the wiring will not be to different in ours if at all so I might be able to take pics to help you out
 
chromed

Since you have it apart, now would be a good time to spray paint the gauge holder chrome or something, helps bounce light around and make it brighter. Topper light gets power from the wires behind the driver seat, check for 12v there. The hardtop portion gets power (IIRC) from the passenger side A pillar wires. I think I remember seeing some go up into that area.

This site such a goldmine of good info.
Never thought of that but it makes sense since it seems like there is so much wasted light if that doesn't sound crazy.
 
electroyka

Oh one more thing I really like your truck.

Just like mine except a bit older.

DSC00184.jpg


Even a Goofy Made Chevy like mine.

Lemme know if you need help the wiring will not be to different in ours if at all so I might be able to take pics to help you out


Hey! thats a nice jimmy. :waytogo:


I'm probably going to start tracing all the wires this weekend. Tailgate working forward. I'm glad I didn't buy the wiring harness yet considering that will save me some cash if I can do without. I'll take pics along the way and post as I go.

Thanks for the advice all.
 
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