CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

CA *SOLD* 90 k5 $9500

anwat

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Apr 28, 2019
Posts
802
Reaction score
609
Location
Long Beach, CA
1990 K5. TBI 350, 700R4, 205, 12-bolt w/Detroit locker, D44 w/detroit tru-trac. 1-ton custom driveline. Engine built by L&R in Santa Fe Springs, CA, Edelbrock heads and intake, full roller, mild cam, upgraded GM throttle body, fuel and exhaust . 4” all spring lift, Warn series 12 Industrial winch in custom mount for front or rear. Full cage, 5 pt. belts with seats from an IH 4500. Braided fuel, trans and steering lines using AN fittings. There are no fluid leaks. I built this truck to be a capable, reliable and simple camping rig. Everything was replaced with GM-dealer sourced parts and sensors. New 35 inch Mud terrains with a spare. Great on the trail, great at 70mph on the freeway. No significant rust, save two small spots near the tailgate (see photos on my media page) Body is in fair condition. Paint is poor, lots of chips and branch scratches. Lots of spare parts, including sensors, an ECM and several chips. I’ve put just over 4000 miles (less than 500 on the trans) and two trips to Death Valley on it since it was done. $9500. I bought a 73, and can’t afford two. I’ll sell the 73 if you prefer it, but it’s going to be over 20k. I will post some more photos tonight of the undercarriage. Here’s a link to a vid of the truck with the winch mounted. Sorry about the jeep that can't get over the rock, but it was fun to watch. https://www.dropbox.com/s/li1k9c9ut7eq45t/gohler pass 2017 2.MOV?dl=0
I'll also add a more complete list of what's been done and what remains. Photos of the truck are on my media page, just click on my avatar and go to the media page.
 
Last edited:
Added some photos of underneath. Here's a detailed rundown of everything. I know it's long, but no one is forcing you to read it:

I’ve been driving this truck since 2002. In 2015, I decided it was the best candidate for a camping rig I was going to find, and a complete overhaul was started. I wanted a cross between an overlander and a serious off-road vehicle. Everything I did was done correctly and with an eye towards reliability and longevity. I really hate to see it go, but a friend decided to sell his, which is a ’73 with a fuel injected big block on coilovers and over 16” of travel, 14 bolt and 60 up front, hydraulic steering and 37s. I bought it, but now still have trouble deciding which one I prefer. Whichever sells first is the one that goes, I’ll keep the other.

I do not want someone to feel unhappy if they buy it, I want you to feel you got exactly what you paid for. Everything is factual here, I have 90 % of the receipts for the work and parts, and the other 10% can be verified in some other way. If you are out of state I will do my best to get you exactly what you need to be comfortable that you aren’t getting ripped off. I don’t want to hear any pissed off people on the phone after I sell it. I only want to hear questions or happy stories of where it took you.

I’m flexible with the price insomuch as there are things I’d like to keep and swap with my new blazer. Like the seats and the winch. I’ll trade out the seats and take 500 off the price. I’ll also take $500 off if you don’t want the winch. The seats you’d get are stock blazer highbacks which were just reupholstered. So right there we’re down to $8500. I’m reasonable, but I’ve got a ton of work into this, so try to consider that before you make an offer.

The Bad:

The A/C needs to be charged with 134. It has been completely retrofitted, new Delco compressor, new condenser, new evaporator, new lines, but the fittings were never tightened down and once I charged it, the Freon leaked out. It was winter, so I didn’t care. When I took it to get it recharged, the a/c shop said I should replace the O rings since they had probably dried out. So, you’ll need to get new O rings and tighten the fittings, and pay for the Freon. They also recommended changing the “orifice tube”, they said it was for extreme heat, and it would be better with a regular tube. I have receipts for all the new parts I installed during the build. I also can refer you to the a/c shop that looked at it and told me what was needed. I intend to get this fixed when I have time, but I figured I can put it up as is and update when its fixed.

The Horn does not work, it was removed and not reinstalled. I threw it away, so if you want one you’ll have to buy one. The wiring is still in place.

The windshield wipers turn on, but won’t turn off without turning the truck off. You’ll need a new wiper switch if you plan or using them frequently.

The passenger’s door interior handle was removed and replaced with a platform for my dogs when they ride in the truck. I have the handle, it will come with the truck, but you will need to reinstall it, unless, of course, you plan on having your canine companion ride shotgun.

The batteries are fine now. I swapped them out with the ones in the ’73 I bought, so I would know their history. They ones in the ’90 are optima red tops, but I don’t know their history. They may need to be replaced sometime soon or they may last a few more years. Again, they test fine and I’ve had no issues, I just don’t know how old they are.

The radiator shroud is not the correct one. Long story, but the truck never runs hot, so I never got around to changing it. If you want it to be correct, it should be replaced. The fans and everything else are fine. The openings around the hoses aren’t sealed, and a lot of engine air can end up getting pulled into the fans.

The carpet does not look as good as it does in the photos. Enough of the same carpet to do the entire truck will come with the truck. I planned on removing it and replacing it with vinyl flooring, but didn’t get that far.

There is a trans temp gauge in the center console which isn’t hooked up. Its wired and working, but the fitting in the line was leaking, so I removed it pending buying an new fitting. There is a working trans temp gauge from the pan under the dash. The water temp gauge in the console won’t be coming with the truck, I need it for the new one. The dash gauges work, I just wanted something with numbers on them. You could add a voltmeter, or whatever else you want in that hole.

The window rubber on the outside of the back roll-up glass is shot. Needs to be replaced. I thought I had ordered it with the rest, but apparently I didn’t. All the other rubber was replaced.

I got a new windshield washer reservoir, but didn’t install it since the wipers are malfunctioning. It will come with the truck.

Paint and body work, if you’re into that sort of thing.

Oil and coolant are due for a change. I didn’t want to change it so the buyer can see what it looks like. All the other fluids are changed within the last 6000 miles or less. I’ve got two gallons of coolant for the change which will be included.

As mentioned, there is some light surface rust here and there. The only significant rust is the two spots by the tailgate and the first inch of the passenger’s side rain gutter. In all of those spots the metal is still sound, but I couldn’t in good conscience call it surface rust. It’s starting to flake, but is still structurally strong. I would have dealt with it, but I’d rather have you be able to see how bad it is than just see a repaired spot.

The truck is supposed to run 33” in tires. I got a great deal on 35” Mud Terrains. They are brand new. With the 4:11 gears, it gets great mileage on the road. It’s got plenty of power, but technically isn’t geared in the best range for performance.



THE GOOD

No leaks, everything was done correctly, soldered and crimped electrical, grade 8 hardware, almost everything that could be powdercoated was including the accessory brackets, tank skid plate, pulleys, the ORD engine crossmember, the inner fenders, and anything else I took off and put back on.

The engine was built and tuned to the specs for 350’s on Harristuning.com. With the exception of the headers, I did everything he recommends in the 350 recommended mods section. Brian Harris and I exchanged extensive emails and phone time getting everything tuned and working correctly. I have a couple of different chips from him, (an economy and a power version) and one from Sinister Performance in Indiana. Morse machine did the throttle body, and everything was bored to 46mm, adjustable fuel pressure reg, and a gauge that you can put right on the throttle body fuel line. All the lines were upgraded using Earls plumbing hoses and AN fittings.

New PSC steering gear, Borgeson shaft with no rag joint, new Delco power steering pump. Braided stainless hose, new ball joints (One of the few things that isn’t Delco…they are Autozone with a lifetime warranty)new moog tie rod ends. ORD quick release installed on the sway bar. Frame at steering box has been reinforced and a crossmember welded between the frame rails. The frame from the box forward is triangulated and braced for the winch mount.

Polyurethane motor, trans and transfer case mounts. Advance adapter between the trans and t case. ORD engine crossmember, powdercoated.

Custom one ton driveline with low angles, no vibration.

NP205 case

Custom brackets for the seats which came out of a new IH 4500. Crow 5 pt. harnesses. The stock seatbelts were done, so I replaced them with surplus belts from a military H1. There is a small tear to the rear of the center seat, the only way I could remove the fold down box bracket. You can see it in the photos.

Custom DOM interior cage.

Rockford/Fosgate Marine grade head unit with Kicker amp and Sirius/XM hard wired into the unit. If you’re into the tunes, you should probably invest in some good speakers, but the sony 6x9s up front and the Polk Audio 6x9s in the rear are plenty for me.

The entire rear of the truck was lined in sound Dynamat material. I then covered that with ½ closed cell foam glued to mass loaded vinyl. Temp/noise insulation plus its easy on the knees when you’re crawling around back there. The front floor was also covered in dynamat, but I never got to the foam and vinyl. I installed a cutout in the floor of the bed to access the top of the fuel tank in case the pump ever needs to be changed on the trail. ( I of course installed a new high pressure Delco pump and sending unit when the tank was down. I also powdercoated the skidplate for the tank. The truck was way quiet inside until the muffler shop convinced me to change mufflers. If I was keeping it I would go back to the Walker muffler I had and enjoy the quiet. I wouldn’t mind giving up a few HP to have my silence back. It has flowmasters on it now, maybe 1000 miles on them.

The exhaust is custom from the manifolds back. New OEM cast iron exhaust manifolds. Headers would be best, but I live in CA, so they aren’t possible. That would be the first change I’d make if possible. I put in a wideband o2 sensor, A/F ratio gauge and datalogger from innovate motorsports. The wideband o2 sensor was replaced this month. The ALDL works great, and I use it regularly.

Winch can be moved from front to rear. It’s a warn industrial series 12, very beefy, the type the FD uses for their rigs, which is actually where it came from, it was part of an order for the FD that they didn’t have a use for. It’s just heavy. As I get older it gets heavier, so it doesn’t get put on much anymore. I’ve used it way more to move things at the house than on the trail. Works perfectly, but heavy.

No cracks in the glass. All the rubber is new except for the rear window. The rear window does have some scratches from being rolled up and down with sand in the window felt. As far as I know, nothing can be done about that, except replace the window and have it happen again. Never have taken the shell off, and it doesn’t leak.

BFG mud terrains are new, no holes. Spare has never even been on the truck, but it needs to be rotated soon after you buy it. Black steel rims, with one extra. (I used to wheel with two spares).
 
Last edited:
Looks like a very practical build. I've wondered about going that route with the motor in my K5. Would you happen to know the HP/TQ specs? And what are your thoughts about it?
 
Looks like a very practical build. I've wondered about going that route with the motor in my K5. Would you happen to know the HP/TQ specs? And what are your thoughts about it?
I love it...there is one thing that I didn't consider until too late. When you change the cam in one of the TBI engines, you will never get the timing curve right again. The curve is programmed for the factory cam, and although you can tweak it a little with rewriting the PROM, you'll never get it exactly where it should be. You can set the base and the total, but the curve between the two is up to the ECM and ESC modules. For the amount of money I spent upgrading the GM system, if I could go back, I'd just put an FITech (or one of the other TBI systems) on it and be done. I initially intended to keep this truck for a long time, and wanted it to be smog legal in CA, which is why I stuck with the GM system. The FI tech is infinitely more adjustable by just entering info in the handheld. It will use AI to learn the best timing curve and fuel trims. You can get much more info from it than the ALDL in the stock system, all for a little over a thousand bucks. By the time I bored the throttle body, got a high pressure fuel pump, a fuel pressure regulator, new lines, a couple new chips bored the intake, etc. I was into it for at least that much. If you go to harristuning.com, go to the recommended mods for the 350, he goes into great detail about what you can do and what is worthwhile. I followed all of his advice, including buying a couple of chips from him. Again, very happy, especially with the change to the roller cam. Just in case you care, I went with a comp cams 08-408-8. .
As to the second question, I did dyno it twice. The first time was without a chip change, and got 197.3 ft. lbs of tq at 2928 rpm, 128 hp at 3988 rpm on 91 octane gas. A few weeks later I went and ran it again with the chip, and got 245 hp and 308 ft. lbs. of TQ. Ive changed a couple of things since then, most notably
a new chip with more advance and a new air filter (using stock before) I'd say I've added about another 20 hp. I'm limited by the exhaust manifolds, which have to remain stock. With headers, I'm sure I could get another 10--15 hp across the whole rpm range easily. I haven't gone back to dyno again because it's expensive and I don't really care that much about the numbers, I was just trying to get it tuned as best as I could. Before you judge, remember that's honest rear wheel HP with 35" tires, and a stock air cleaner. Plus with the gears it has, I can easily get 20 mpg on the freeway. I've never needed more than it has in 4 lo, so I'm happy.
 
I love it...there is one thing that I didn't consider until too late. When you change the cam in one of the TBI engines, you will never get the timing curve right again. The curve is programmed for the factory cam, and although you can tweak it a little with rewriting the PROM, you'll never get it exactly where it should be. You can set the base and the total, but the curve between the two is up to the ECM and ESC modules. For the amount of money I spent upgrading the GM system, if I could go back, I'd just put an FITech (or one of the other TBI systems) on it and be done. I initially intended to keep this truck for a long time, and wanted it to be smog legal in CA, which is why I stuck with the GM system. The FI tech is infinitely more adjustable by just entering info in the handheld. It will use AI to learn the best timing curve and fuel trims. You can get much more info from it than the ALDL in the stock system, all for a little over a thousand bucks. By the time I bored the throttle body, got a high pressure fuel pump, a fuel pressure regulator, new lines, a couple new chips bored the intake, etc. I was into it for at least that much. If you go to harristuning.com, go to the recommended mods for the 350, he goes into great detail about what you can do and what is worthwhile. I followed all of his advice, including buying a couple of chips from him. Again, very happy, especially with the change to the roller cam. Just in case you care, I went with a comp cams 08-408-8. .
As to the second question, I did dyno it twice. The first time was without a chip change, and got 197.3 ft. lbs of tq at 2928 rpm, 128 hp at 3988 rpm on 91 octane gas. A few weeks later I went and ran it again with the chip, and got 245 hp and 308 ft. lbs. of TQ. Ive changed a couple of things since then, most notably
a new chip with more advance and a new air filter (using stock before) I'd say I've added about another 20 hp. I'm limited by the exhaust manifolds, which have to remain stock. With headers, I'm sure I could get another 10--15 hp across the whole rpm range easily. I haven't gone back to dyno again because it's expensive and I don't really care that much about the numbers, I was just trying to get it tuned as best as I could. Before you judge, remember that's honest rear wheel HP with 35" tires, and a stock air cleaner. Plus with the gears it has, I can easily get 20 mpg on the freeway. I've never needed more than it has in 4 lo, so I'm happy.

Those numbers sound very respectable. Thank you for the honest feedback about the timing curve. I have given some thought to a Caddy, Vortec, or LS engine swap as well. All the options have their pros and cons.

Given the work you have into that K5, that sounds like a very fair deal. Good luck with the sale.
 
Do you have a link to the pics? All I seem to get is the video of Gohler Pass.
 
Click on my name under the yellow truck and that box with my profile will pop up. Click on the "media page" button and the photos should be there. If you have trouble, let me know and I'll try to figure out what's wrong. I'm not the most computer literate person out there, so it's very possible I did something wrong.
 
Ok thanks. I'm thinking maybe I belong to that computer illiterate group too. Must be spending too much time in the garage :).
 
Click on my name under the yellow truck and that box with my profile will pop up. Click on the "media page" button and the photos should be there. If you have trouble, let me know and I'll try to figure out what's wrong. I'm not the most computer literate person out there, so it's very possible I did something wrong.
Just so you know, the pictures are there. Two pages, right?
 
Correct...one full page and a few on the second. Thanks. This site has actually been pretty easy to figure out how things work. One vote from me on not changing you format anytime soon like another site I used to use before it got too complicated and full of ads!
 
Top Bottom