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Solid Axle Swaps

here is a 93 we did a couple years ago, making our own brackets
42in pitbuls, like said before 1500 bucks for brackets is tough to pony up for, but if you have no choice then thats whats you got to do
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front hanger
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rear shackle,, we also welded a 1/4 flat between the frame and the mount, after this pic was taken
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Just started doing the SAS with the ORD kit. You have it a little easier than I do though. I am converting 2wd 1 ton. There is no kit for that. Just the modifying of existing brackets to fit. And the addition of the t-case, shifter, x member, and shortening of the rear shaft.

-ORD Brackets ~$500
-Crossover ~$400
-79 HP60 ~$700
-Used TCI 2" lift springs~$200
-DD NP241 ~$200
-Dshaft shortening ~$150

That is just where I'm at right now. It still needs shocks, Ubolts, front Dshaft, brake work, etc..

Make up your mind to go 8 lug even if you are thinking of using a passenger drop 6 lug axle. Crossover is easier on a Dana 60 and it just makes the whole swap worthwhile.

Here are some pics of the front bracket modifications. This is about midway through the process of installing them. It shows how the alignment of the 2wd varies from the 4wd version and the mods needed to make it fit. We did run a cross brace to tie the frame brackets to the frame better and then weld it all in (not normally required).

IMG_1275_1.JPG
 
Just started doing the SAS with the ORD kit. You have it a little easier than I do though. I am converting 2wd 1 ton. There is no kit for that. Just the modifying of existing brackets to fit. And the addition of the t-case, shifter, x member, and shortening of the rear shaft.

-ORD Brackets ~$500
-Crossover ~$400
-79 HP60 ~$700
-Used TCI 2" lift springs~$200
-DD NP241 ~$200
-Dshaft shortening ~$150

That is just where I'm at right now. It still needs shocks, Ubolts, front Dshaft, brake work, etc..

Make up your mind to go 8 lug even if you are thinking of using a passenger drop 6 lug axle. Crossover is easier on a Dana 60 and it just makes the whole swap worthwhile.

Here are some pics of the front bracket modifications. This is about midway through the process of installing them. It shows how the alignment of the 2wd varies from the 4wd version and the mods needed to make it fit. We did run a cross brace to tie the frame brackets to the frame better and then weld it all in (not normally required).


See this is the concept I dont get. Why bother buying the ORD brackets thats main point is being bolt on if you have to cut/weld/modify them or the frame anyway? Why not just buzz on a front crossmember to make the frame horns flat and weld on some of Kurts 4 hole brackets and be done up front?
 
See this is the concept I dont get. Why bother buying the ORD brackets thats main point is being bolt on if you have to cut/weld/modify them or the frame anyway? Why not just buzz on a front crossmember to make the frame horns flat and weld on some of Kurts 4 hole brackets and be done up front?

Because I have three kids and no spare time. If I was a single guy with time to kill, I might just give it a wack and hope it came out half as good. The time it would take to fabricate these and the rear hangers (which are still bolt in) is well worth the cost to me.
 
I'd like to think that $3-4K would get you somewhere upgrading IFS but it still won't hold a candle to a leaf sprung solid axle for durability. Upgraded IFS comes into it's own on these trucks when ride and handling become priorities but it's not like you can't make a solid axle ride and handle pretty good too.

Upgrade IFS math gets expensive:
1: start with an 8 lug truck
2: lift system
3: upgraded shafts
4: steering beefup
5: arms/balljoint upgrades
I do want to play with some IFS stuff but it's not in the fat part of the performance vs. cost curve.

SAS isn't necessarily cheap but it does create a solid performing truck.

As for low lift ideas, spring under is an option to keep it really low and get good bump travel but a 1-2" spring over the axle wouldn't be terrible. Our '99 is running a 2.5-ish" spring and pulls just under 5" of bump travel and it has a spring that would be overly thick a shorter lift. I think it could drop an inch or more and still keep a close to the same bump travel. This would retain your spring over ground clearance and be easy since you'll be using an axle that starts spring over anyway.
 
How much lift over stock is the sas on your UA truck if you know? I like that you kept it low for the trip, but it's still bigger than I want to go for. I'm looking to build my Yukon into an overland style rig, something like the old Camel Trophy trucks or the newer rainforest challenge stuff. Locked front and rear, with decent articulation with lots of skid plates and a winch. I want to keep it low so I can drive (rather than trailer) it to the trail.
 
The Lord can be mean sometimes...



The other day while perusing the junkyard for a hub I didn't need, I found:



a HP dana 60 from a 77 Ford F-250

a 75 Jeep Wagoneer with dana 44 and 6 lug outers

a 14bsf with 6 lug hubs

np241 with linkage and cover (shifter cover on the floor) of the right color



All the junkyard parts needed for a sas.
 
IIRC, sky's off-road design makes a 2.5" sas kit. I know someone with the 4"and he beats the balls out of it with no issues.
 
I don't know, my 2500 with a 900 ft lb diesel and ifs works good for 80 percent of trails around here. It has a 4" tuff country lift ($1100) and stock axles with 35s. I just broke my first axle at 150,000 miles. the next day I was draggin a vermeer 1000 wood chipper up a 50 percent grade that was rocks and mud. A good lift will keep the axles straightish and in that configuration they're as strong as a 60 imho. Lots of truck pullers use ifs with stock axles locked and no issues. Not to say solid isn't good as well. They both have they're stregnth and weaknesses, and I think ifs gets a bad rap that isn't really deserved.
 
You can use Chevy knuckles out to convert it to 6 lug. You just have to use the correct stub shaft for the outers you use. Wagoneers used the same outers as Chevy after 80'.
 
Are you saying you can put 6 lug waggy D44 wheel hubs on Chevy Dana 60 somehow :confused:?
 
Ok, that makes sense. Thanks. Just saw the Ford HP60 and waggy 44 parts together in the quote and thought somehow waggy wheel hubs could be be put on a 60 spindle.

The Lord can be mean sometimes...



The other day while perusing the junkyard for a hub I didn't need, I found:



a HP dana 60 from a 77 Ford F-250

a 75 Jeep Wagoneer with dana 44 and 6 lug outers

a 14bsf with 6 lug hubs

np241 with linkage and cover (shifter cover on the floor) of the right color



All the junkyard parts needed for a sas.

No he means for a 44 or 10 bolt. It's the same size stuff pretty much.
 
I don't think I would compare an aluminum cased ifs front diff to a cast iron beam axle like that one.
 
Id bet my left nut against that statement.
I'll bet with you on this. My Yukon with its silly little 8.5" ring gear in a split aluminum case is asking for trouble. Granted, IFS is pretty good, but the 1/2 IFS GM came out with isn't stellar off-road. Mine is out of alignment, again, and I just tore out the CV's and front driveshaft because the front diff was making a terrible groaning noise and was leaking. I figure to revamp the front IFS to be strong enough to survive the rigors of off-road/"overlanding" use, it would take as much money as a sas and still not be as good as a solid axle, even a D44.

Getting crossed up, fully loaded with a trailer (2,500lbs) and fully locked and surviving is a very tall order for a solid axle, and far too much for an IFS.
 

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