Solid Brake Bleeding Purchase

[dhcomp]

So, over the last 5 yrs, i've bleed my burb more times than i can count.

My motive pressure bleeder has done great.

Literally, I can flush the whole truck in 45 min.

That being said, i always used some cobbled together tubing, and a 20oz coke bottle with a hole in the top. Worked ok. Had to switch tubing sizes for front/rear bleeders.



For some reason, when i went to order fluid for my newest BMW, i ordered this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W7F2GI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TOTALLY worth the $$$.

The tubing is super flexible, holds on the bleeder screws better, doesn't kink, doesn't drip, and the bottle hangs from a little wire you loop over the bleed screw.

Necessary? No. But, i'm a "right tool for the job" type of person. And this made bleeding way cleaner/easier.

Now if only the 5 yr old hose on my motive bleeder hadnt' blown out, it would have been a good evening....

 

[ktmoutfront]

I made one like that 20 years ago. Sylicone RC car fuel tubing. Works great.

 

[diesel4me]

I like using a home brewed vacuum bleeder,I use a glass jar with a metal lid,but plastic will work OK as long as its a fairly thick one with a good lid--you just drill 2 holes in the lid,and poke 2 pieces of brake line thru them,one has to almost touch the bottom of the jar,the other only needs to go thru the lid by an inch or so...I solder them in on a metal lid,or use RTV to seal around them on plastic lids..

You hook a long rubber vacuum hose to the brake line that only goes into the lid--that one needs to be long enough to reach all 4 wheels and connect to a manifold vacuum port on the engine--the other longer brake line gets connected to the bleeder screw--I use soft surgical rubber tubing,its the best to get a tight fit on various sizes of bleeders...clear vinyl hose works OK too though..

I use a pair of vise grips on the vacuum hose as an "on-off" switch...with this simple device you can bleed brakes,clutch master & slave cylinders,by yourself with no hassles in a matter of minutes...

You put enough brake fluid in the jar to cover the long brake line in the lid--start the engine after connecting the hose going to the short brake line in the lid to a vacuum source,attach the other hose to the bleeder,open it,release the vise grips from the vacuum hose at the jar,watch for all the air to be pulled out into the jar--when no bubbles show,you close the bleeder and clamp off the vacuum hose,and move on to the next wheel..beats buying a "Mighty-Vac" tool ,I had one that broke the first time I used it,the pump died!..

 

[dhcomp]

Good call on the tubing.

 

[bigjbear]

I love the pressure bleeders. As long as there is a MC cap adapter you're golden.

 

[Highpsi]

I love the pressure bleeders. As long as there is a MC cap adapter you're golden.

This is definitely the key. I had a go round about a year ago with trying to make my own pressure bleeder and it is completed all but the stupid cap adaptor. With the @#$^! plastic MC, it is very hard to get a good seal without damage / cracking the plastic reservoir.

You can't "clamp" against the body of the MC because if you do it will bust the reservoir and seals at the bottom. (I feel like a moron for admitting that I found that out the hard way!)

Does anybody have the specific cap for the later plastic styles?? It must have some sort specialized clamping system too.

All the attempts I made to make my own never had enough clamp tension against a homebrew gasket or what not - it would ALWAYS leak.

 

[dhcomp]

This is definitely the key. I had a go round about a year ago with trying to make my own pressure bleeder and it is completed all but the stupid cap adaptor. With the @#$^! plastic MC, it is very hard to get a good seal without damage / cracking the plastic reservoir.

You can't "clamp" against the body of the MC because if you do it will bust the reservoir and seals at the bottom. (I feel like a moron for admitting that I found that out the hard way!)

Does anybody have the specific cap for the later plastic styles?? It must have some sort specialized clamping system too.

All the attempts I made to make my own never had enough clamp tension against a homebrew gasket or what not - it would ALWAYS leak.

Could you use a replacement stock cap, and drill and add a hose to it?

 

[Highpsi]

Could you use a replacement stock cap, and drill and add a hose to it?

Tried it! Once you pressure the system up, it just pops the cap. If you try to secure the cap with a huge clamp or something, well... It just sucks. It won't seal!