bot0611
1/2 ton status
A friend onf mine put thoose on his truck and he says he can fell the truck respond better (i guess the loos of power of the stock motor mounts) but he complains of the vibrations as well, so who has done it?
CK5
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Solid motor mounts, pros-cons
- Thread starter bot0611
- Start date
bot0611
1/2 ton status
why you say that, doent the solid mount let the movement of the engine pass over to the frame and the cab
I've installed solid motor mounts in a car once and it only took a QUICK trip around the block before i yanked them out and threw them away. Solid mounts will jar your teeth loose in a hurry and make EVERYTHING that can squeak squeak.
i didnt like solid ones, but i did put kerts poly ones in and its a nice medium between stock and solid.
we had solids in a 2wd stepside. healthy small block had and the solid ones had formed cracks in the frame after a few years but only maybe 20 runs at the track.
we had solids in a 2wd stepside. healthy small block had and the solid ones had formed cracks in the frame after a few years but only maybe 20 runs at the track.
bot0611
1/2 ton status
I fugured, ok so what about tying the engine to the frame anybody heard of that one before???
Some guys down in Baja use to put some type of strap from the engine block to the frame in order to prevent the engine from its natural movement uppon throtle and not missing the torque
Some guys down in Baja use to put some type of strap from the engine block to the frame in order to prevent the engine from its natural movement uppon throtle and not missing the torque
People commonly install a "limit strap" to keep the engine from tearing the mounts in half. Trying to make some sort of solid strap/link that would eliminate movement is going to be the same as runniong a solid mount. Our trucks use the clamshell style mount and they rarely have failures of the rubber mount breaking, they are more susceptible to oil soak and then becoming soggy.
The solid mounts don't make any more power per se'. They just control the power that is made. I think he may be feeling the vibrations, and translate that into more power. If he had broken mounts before there could have been disastrous repercussions from them. i.e. broken trans, transfer case what have you, from uncontrolled drivetrain movement. Basically solid mounts on all powertrain units (except axles) make the drivetrain platform more stationary, which can be a bad thing too, by not letting parts move with the frame flex, but they will generally keep things lined up better to transmit the power smoother to the driveshafts.
That is why race vehicles have a very solid platform for all other components to be attached to. The platform stays stationary, and the components are made to function from that platform.
That is why race vehicles have a very solid platform for all other components to be attached to. The platform stays stationary, and the components are made to function from that platform.
bot0611
1/2 ton status
Ohhh ok...got it, i think ill stay with the stock ones then, just trying to get the maximum juice of the truck
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
I've driven a car with them and had none of the symptoms you listed
That being said I would never put them in a truck like ours with a crap wet noodle frame.
a good compromise is the poly mounts. I've run them in my Vette, and they produce very little movement in the drivetrain, but give it just enough flex to take out major vibration, and what frame twisting might be going on.
I plan on the same for my Blazer, I want to make the frame as rigid as possible, therefore boxing, and eventually cage tie in.
I plan on the same for my Blazer, I want to make the frame as rigid as possible, therefore boxing, and eventually cage tie in.
bot0611
1/2 ton status
Do you have to box the whole frame for this or just the engine mount section, ive been told if putting solid mounts on the engine i will need solid mounts on the tranny and viceversa
You don't want part of your driveline flexing and other parts mounted rigid, when they are rigidly bolted together. I really don't think rigid mounting is a good idea, unless your boxed and caged, or cage tied in securely to prevent most frame twist from front to back. I think box kit makers suggest boxing the majority of the frame. If boxing stops at a certain spot (especially up front) it could create a stress spot on the frame rails. Also tying the rails in from top of one side to bottom of opposite side helps prevent twist.
I have never solid mounted stuff but have used poly bushings that were dang hard.
Solid mounts on an off road truck are alright but the frame does have to be strong, any twisting and the solid mounts will crack and when they fail its bad.
Poly is a good way to go though, controls the location of the motor and trans and other stuff very well, but dampens vibes just a bit
I plan on putting poly mounts all throughout my truck eventually, on my crew cab I plan on doing polys too just going to use the stock motor mounts shells
Solid mounts on an off road truck are alright but the frame does have to be strong, any twisting and the solid mounts will crack and when they fail its bad.
Poly is a good way to go though, controls the location of the motor and trans and other stuff very well, but dampens vibes just a bit
I plan on putting poly mounts all throughout my truck eventually, on my crew cab I plan on doing polys too just going to use the stock motor mounts shells
I've heard of tranny's cracking like a coconut, if you fail to put a solid tranny mount in along with the solid engine mounts !!..I'd use poly ones if anything,but stock ones will never separate anyway,and I haven't seen too many with worn rubber inserts unless they were in a 6 cyl. truck that leaked oil like the Valdez!.
