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solution for wheel cylinder bolt removal

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rocknerd

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plainville ct
14boltFF changing out wheel cylinders. Just did my buddies, now on to mine. had to sawsall 3 of the 4 bolts heads off of his to get them out. any better solution to removal. Seem to round out really easily. ...Plenty of pb blaster... It seems like a stupid question, but does anyone have any secrets?
 
rocknerd said:
14boltFF changing out wheel cylinders. Just did my buddies, now on to mine. had to sawsall 3 of the 4 bolts heads off of his to get them out. any better solution to removal. Seem to round out really easily. ...Plenty of pb blaster... It seems like a stupid question, but does anyone have any secrets?
Click to expand...

The "secret" is to buy a RUST FREE California truck. :D
 
Twist sockets such as available from : snap-on ,mac,matco, irwin . Irwin sells at most hardware stores. Pound the socket on and either use an impact driver and a hammer, or a good impact gun, with sharp blasts to free the bolt.
 
spray them with the PB daily for a week or better leading into your replacement job.
 
fyi in ct you dont have as much as use up here in upstate ny.

we have 3-4 major salt plants . and the salt trucks dump it in the winter.

there can be dry roads with snow on 99% of the rest of the ground. go figure. :eek1:
 
I've used a SHARP cold chisel & a 3 lb. ball pein hammer to shear off the bolts heads with a few good whacks before!..torches can vaporize the backing plate too fast,before the bolt head gets hot enough to blow off,at least in my experience here,with salt thinned ones that are usually paper thin!..Air Chisel works too..
 
Pb blaster aint nothing, you boys need some silikroil, stuff will disolve the rust infront of your eyes as well as penetrate, lubricate and prevent it rusting later on down the road to a certain degree. Spray it on there and watch the red drip away.
 
I've got some Kroil, " the oil that creeps", is this a new version?

J.
 
the "sili" in silikroil is silicon, it helps prevent the bolt from rusting in there again and gives it some lubrication. The big power plants all use "kroil" because they cannot have silicon in the turbines i believe. Thats were dad heard of the stuff. We order it by the case, although its pricy, it does its job and does it well. Use it on just about everything and it makes lugnuts and a 4 way a breeze, or working on rusted U bolts, or anything.
 
A gun barrel make once told me to take a new gun and liberally coat the inside of the barrel with kroil and let it sit s day then swab clean. The kroil will get into the smaller imperfections than any other oil he said.
 
I have used about every penetrant oil known to mankind,I have some old stuff my dad used at the gas plant that was like Kroil,it said it was "pure castor oil"..it worked when all others failed,but when the bolt heads look more like a rivet ,and no hex remains,oil dont help you much!..I've used a small pipe wrench on such bolts with success,or a stud remover,if there is enough room--not in the case of wheel cylinder bolts,especially on a dually..one truck with duals I ended up using a 5 lb hammer on the wheel cylinder itself--being cast ,they bust easier than you think!..:D
 
diesel4me said:
I have used about every penetrant oil known to mankind,I have some old stuff my dad used at the gas plant that was like Kroil,it said it was "pure castor oil"..it worked when all others failed,but when the bolt heads look more like a rivet ,and no hex remains,oil dont help you much!..I've used a small pipe wrench on such bolts with success,or a stud remover,if there is enough room--not in the case of wheel cylinder bolts,especially on a dually..one truck with duals I ended up using a 5 lb hammer on the wheel cylinder itself--being cast ,they bust easier than you think!..:D
Click to expand...


Dad pulled two bolts out of the 1970 CE 350/370 horse 11:1 shortblock with silikroil and icepick and straight claw hammer, soaked a little kroil on the timing cover bolt, backed it out easy. Then flipped block over, soaked the main bearing (outside 4 bolt) and took a little more work, but eventually got it out. It does help believe it or not, granted some bolts are just stuck due to reasons other than dirty threads. But silikroil pick and hammer saved us a ton of time.
 
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