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solution to rear disc brake bad pedal

chevyuser74

chevyuser74

1/2 ton status
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Jun 19, 2006
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Mukwonago, Wi
ive read and search, theres a lot of ideas out there but nobody seems to post exactly what they did and if it took care of it togther. and i figure this thread could help ppl in the future. ive got 3/4 ton calipers in front and rear, stops fine, but i would like the pedal to be better. please post your solutions on your own, with part numbers if u could. thanks. by the my truck is a 74 blazer if it matters.
 
Not sure what to do on the 3/4 front and rear. I guess you could change your MC to a P30 van or something like that.

Once I found out my MC was leaking internally I changed it out and all was fine.
 
i still have my stock proportioning valve, ive been looking for something i read a while ago about taking out the internals in it.
 
Last edited:
cuervo said:
Not sure what to do on the 3/4 front and rear. I guess you could change your MC to a P30 van or something like that.

Once I found out my MC was leaking internally I changed it out and all was fine.
Click to expand...

I'm running 3/4 ton calipers front and rear and my brakes are awesome. New replacement master cylinder, prop valve is stock.

Are you sure you have all the air out?
 
chevyuser74 said:
i still have my stock proportioning valve, ive been looking for something i read a while ago about taking out the internals in it.
Click to expand...


I was going to comment on this too...but forgot about it. I too read somewhere about this, can't rember exactly where though. Maybe Pirate? In the end though I didn't need to touch it.
 
With discs, if the pedal is traveling too much even after driving for a bit to get things seated, there's air in the system somewhere, or you have a leak, or the pedal has too much freeplay.

It can be very very hard to get all the air out of the proportioning valve if any gets in there.
 
i would like to find the info and taking out the internals on the pro valve so i can add in an adjustable one.
 
That info is in the ck5 tech section...

Edit: it's actually in the product review section under the Az-kickin disc brake review about halfway down.
 
chevyuser74 said:
it will go down 3/4 way to the floor and its a bit spongey

as far as a new master cylinder, i heard u need to get a matching booster, and being a 74 the setup is apparently weird.
Click to expand...


This tells you there is still air in the system somewhere. There is no reason whatsoever to remove or modify the factory proportioning valve. I'm running 1 ton axles and still have the factory prop valve, MC and booster and no issues. I can stop dead on a dime with .11 change. :D
 
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