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Solved - Problem with ALDLdroid related to engine trouble?

mrk5

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So this is a bit of a long shot, but I'm just getting started with diagnosing an newly arisen engine problem. I thought maybe the 2 things might be related.

I had a 4hr drive home after a trail run Monday. There is one 4 mile climb on I-70 to get up over the continental divide. The truck was pulling hard and had just down shifted to 2nd pulling about 4000 RPM when it started dropping out or stuttering on me. I let off the gas and it mostly went away but it did do it once or twice more before the climb was done.

Following that was a long stretch of downhill driving where there's not much engine load so nothing seemed to be amiss.

Once I got back on flat land it would miss or stutter occasionally under steady state driving. Then when I got to the areas with frequent stop lights I discovered it was idling rough. It is a constant miss or hiccup. It idles fine, doesn't try to die, but it has a miss. Almost like one cylinder isn't firing. You can hear and feel it as the RPM revs up until basically the RPMs are high enough to kind of mask the miss.

The odd thing is when the truck started doing this, I tried to connect my phone with the ALDL cable using the ALDLdroid app. It has worked fine for over a year now, but now it won't receive data from the ECU. It connects to the ECU and then says "waiting for data from ECU".

So in looking at what might be causing my engine miss, is there something that could be causing both the miss and the ALDL not to receive data from the ECU?

I'm still planning to try and use my laptop to connect to the ALDL cable/ECU just to make sure it's not a glitch with the app or my USB to phone adapter.

I did some initial quick checks to make sure there aren't any burnt plug wires and also check the injectors.

Tonight I'm going to pull the plugs to check for a fouled plug. I also think I may have noticed the ground wire between engine block and firewall is missing, which is odd because I know it was there in the past.

But like I mentioned, I thought it was an interesting coincidence the engine started running rough and the ALDLdroid app wasn't receiving ECU data.

Engine info:
  • 89 TBI 350
  • New AC Delco cap and rotor 200 miles ago
  • New NGK spark plugs 200 miles ago
  • New Taylor plug wires 200 miles ago
  • Set timing 5°BTDC 200 miles ago (after finding the previous owner set timing with the timing plug connected)
  • Oil changed 200 miles ago
  • Rebuilt throttle body 200 miles ago
  • 250000 miles + on the engine
  • About due for new fuel filter
  • It has dual fuel tanks, each tank has a new Delphi pump; same symptoms regardless of tank and fuel level.
 
Check for vacuum leaks. The little rubber caps on my TBI always seem to dry up really fast and crack and then I spend a week trying to diagnose what seems like a big problem but is just a simple vacuum leak.
 
Found the problem. Previous owner installed this little beauty in the #6 plug:

2015-07-29%2019.15.49.jpg


2015-07-29%2019.15.43.jpg


2015-07-29%2019.11.56.jpg


Had to do some Googling to figure out it's a "spark plug non-fouler". When I went to pull that plug it was loose and barely in the hole. Plus the plug boot looks like this:

2015-07-29%2019.11.44.jpg


That boot only has a couple hundred miles on it. From what I was reading it sounds like the non-foulers can get really hot and blow out. I'm guessing this one got really hot and blew part way out and toasted the crap out of the plug boot.

It also didn't do a good job of being a "non-fouler".

a2d2ffad-317b-4c2d-87b5-8cc3c40f7e09.jpg


That piece was slagged to the electrode. I had to use pliers to work them apart and pry that piece off so I could test fire the motor.

So I guess the ALDLdroid not working is a separate issue.
 
Actually that non-fouler probably was doing a good job--without it that plug probably would have been so caked with carbon and oil deposits you wouldn't even see electrodes..time will tell if a new plug installed without it will crud up in short order or not..

Those non-foulers raise the heat range of the plugs way up,so they will tend to burn off oil and carbon and also shield the electrodes from being exposed to the contaminants..that could also make the ceramic get so hot it melted the boot in short order..you probably have low compression and worn rings in that cylinder,or maybe valve stems or seals are letting too much oil get by them and it fouls the plug..
 
Doesn't look really oily, but AFAIK those are supposed to be used when you've got a lot of oil going into the cylinder. Might want to check it in a couple thousand miles and see what the plug looks like then.

Good that you found it though! Sorry I can't help with the connection issue. If the laptop works, guess you'll know its a phone issue though. :(
 
Actually that non-fouler probably was doing a good job--without it that plug probably would have been so caked with carbon and oil deposits you wouldn't even see electrodes..time will tell if a new plug installed without it will crud up in short order or not..

Those non-foulers raise the heat range of the plugs way up,so they will tend to burn off oil and carbon and also shield the electrodes from being exposed to the contaminants..that could also make the ceramic get so hot it melted the boot in short order..you probably have low compression and worn rings in that cylinder,or maybe valve stems or seals are letting too much oil get by them and it fouls the plug..
From what I was reading once the motor gets to the point of needing the non-foulers, you're on borrowed time anyway. No doubt it has bad valve seals, smokes quite a bit on every startup. I was joking with Wade this weekend that if you need 65# compression for a motor to run, mine probably has 70#.

I did find it funny the only plug that was fouled had the non-fouler. I don't understand how that happened other than like you mention I think it was a heat thing and possibly melted the lead to the electrode in that spot.

The thing that's killing me is that I just replaced all the plugs about a month ago. I'm just certain I would have noticed the non-fouler if it was on any of the other plugs when I pulled them but I'm really racking my brain trying to remember if the plugs looked weird. Obviously when I replaced #6, the non-fouler stayed in the block. I double checked all the other cylinders and didn't find a non-fouler.


Doesn't look really oily, but AFAIK those are supposed to be used when you've got a lot of oil going into the cylinder. Might want to check it in a couple thousand miles and see what the plug looks like then.

Good that you found it though! Sorry I can't help with the connection issue. If the laptop works, guess you'll know its a phone issue though. :(

With the way this motor smokes on start up, I expected to see the plugs more oil caked but they weren't.

I got so distracted trying to figure out what the non-fouler was that I didn't get around to testing the ALDL cable with the laptop.

We're really just trying to get this motor through 1 more Blazer Bash and then we're swapping in a 5.3L this winter.
 
My aldl was having the same issue but with a laptop, I figured out it was bad gnd or the power wasnt staying connected 100% of the time causing it to connect and disconnect.
 
It's been working fine. I ended up needing an ICM and ultimately an entire distributor. I have a feeling that was glitching things.
 

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