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Some Bad Luck (right off the bat)

D

DurangoK5

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Durango, CO
My little brother just purchased a 90K5. It's lifted, I think like 3 inches. He was driving down the road when a loud noise started in from the rear end.

And now we have a $2200 bill from the auto shop. Please let me know if these prices sound right or if we're gettin screwed.

1) Lengthen Drive Shaft - $400
2) New Ring and Pinions (due to the wobling from short rear drive shaft) $370
3) New LSD $575
4) New Carrier Bearings $47
5) New Rear Left Axle $255
6) Labor $450

I didn't do the pre-purchase inspection, or some of this might have been caught, but basically the drive shaft was too short causing a wobling and eventually some type of breakage. I wouldn't be surprised if the left axle was already broken however... And since it had limited slip the damn thing would roll at least... right?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Alan Cantor :mad: :confused:


:cool1: I still love K5's
 
Holy hell, i hope they lubed you up first.....

$225 for an axle shaft? hell you could have bought a whole rear end for that alone. $525 for a LSD diff, could have bought a better locker unit for like $300

The short shaft thing to me sounds like a BS reason, there are plenty of lifted Blazers that don't have any issues except some vibration due to the higher angles of the u-joints,,,you are seriously being taken for a ride on this dude.

Could have also bought a CV shaft for alot less than what they are trying to charge you for lengthening yours.

$370 is WAAAY too much for a R&P if it's a 10 bolt unit anyways.
 
Dude you can buy two working K5s for $2200. Forget the rear go to the junkyard and get a 14ff $150, detroit $400 and a driveshaft or have yours reworked $250. Hell you can get a HAD shaft for around $450. Two eight lug rims $100. All this a lot cheaper and a lot stronger for half the money. Or someone on here close to you would prob give you a rear 10bolt axle.
 
Driveshaft BRAND NEW would be 400.00 or so give or take ,
not rebuilt or lengthened .

Internal parts you'd have to ask Tim for a quote .

225 for an axlshaft ..... ouch . A new aftermarket one starts at 110.00 and up

Sorry for your luck man . Some of that could of been found here on CK5 , Tim , High Angle , and the parst wanted forums :k5: :k5:
 
If you ask me, the only prices on there that look somewhat reasonable are the carrier bearing prices, and MAYBE the labor!

Someone just posted about driveshaft lengthening costing $150 or so IIRC, R&P are probably $150-200 from Summit, Jegs, etc., that LSD better be a GM gov-lock or piece (based solely on the fact that is a factory replacement price IMO), and last I checked on Moser prices, 8.5" axleshafts are about $125 or so, for a basic piece.

Even if the truck did move with a broken axle, which I doubt is possible, unless this happened 20 feet from the place of purchase, it would have been noticed immediately. It may have needed a new axle due to the bearing chewing it up (even though there are bearings made to repair this problem) or the c-clip end broke off, but I'd want to see it.

I'm not in the business of repairing vehicles for a fee, but those prices are why I fix my own, thats for sure. So honestly, I doubt anyone but a shop worker who works close to you (cost of living differences can be huge) is qualified to say whether you got taken or not. But the parts you can get yourself, I don't see how the price difference is justified. Maybe thats just me.
 
because the splines wouldnt be fully engaged causing it to wabble, my driveshaft is to short but I dont get a wabble it just leaks a little bit of fluid.

At any rate those prices are really high, you wont want that new limited slip, they break to easy in 10b's, so just install a open carrier. all that other stuff is way to high.

In my opinion I would just go to a junkyard and get another 10b with the same gears, as long as it is stock they shouldnt be to hard to find, I bet you could get one for $50, and then you are just left with lengthining the shaft which will prolly cost around $100.

So you are in it $150 VS. $2200 :xmas:
 
From what I've seen, you let a 208/241 shaft slip around on the output shaft of the t-case, the case itself lets go long before the rear end will. (output shaft housing cracks)

I can see a loose yoke on the axle though, thats common, and will destroy things very effectively.
 
Somebody's getting shafted...

Dude, I think that shop has $$$$ in thier eyes. Worst case senairo on being screwed, all it might be is a fried u-joint and they are taking you to the bank on the rest of it. Take the truck out of the shop right now. Just looking at www.car-part.com a complete axle in boneyards in Colorado has prices for a complete axle between $700-950 and axle shafts for $90-120

I don't think a 3" lift would cause so much driveline angle that it would wipe out the pinon bearing (and cause the rest of the damage listed). At least not before wasting the rear ujoint first. Even then I'd think that the u-joint would break before the pinion bearings would be ruined.

As for the axle shaft, someone else noted there is something you can use to keep your axle. They are called axle saver bearings. They move the roller bearings out of the groove cut by the old bearings and have the seal as part of the unit as an "all in one" fix. I got a pair in the 10 bolt in my Nova. I think they were like $35 a side, but I didn't have to buy axles. Yes new axles are best but on a budget its the way to go.

Heck I'd give you my 12bolt if you had a 14FF to trade. I want to upgrade!
 
:confused: :confused: :confused: dood!!!!!! all i got to say is wtf? yep those are insane prices. i had an 81 lifted k5. and i had 6" lift with 35x14x15 super swampers with a stock driveshaft!!!!! and mine had some vibrations but never broke till i semi purposefully broke it. i was dragracing a friend in his 79 stock k5. yeah i dumped the clutch on a 4 speed in 1st gear with a healthy 350 and 35" tall 14" wide softer rubber tires at a stop light :grin: fully knowing that i had a stock driveshaft in it :haha: and then, i broke both u joints. even snapped 3 sides to one off :haha: but my truck had a bigger lift with a big tire on it so i dont see how just a 3" lift would make that big a diff. and you didnt specify if it was body or suspension. body wouldnt change the driveline at all as where the suspension would. and all i did to correct my driveshaft issue after breaking was put the driveshaft from a 79 k5 in it. it had a slip collar (whatever you call them things) on it so it werked better. :grin:
 
I just had my drive shaft lengthened and a new yoke installed and new u joints, and it came out to 306 or so. So yeah I think they are trying to screw you.
 
Holy shnikeys!!!



Dude those prices are insane. At this point I'd tell them to keep their axle and drive shaft, tow the K5 home with only the front and run down to the junk yard and pic up another axle for $150 or so. Hell I just gave away a complete set of axles for free about 6months ago. It happens on here all the time, free 1/2 tons that is. Last drive shaft I had lenghtened cost me $40.
 
And now we have a $2200 bill from the auto shop.
Click to expand...
It sounds to me as if the work has already been done. Otherwise it should have read "We have a $2200 estimate for repairs".

That is the entire reason I do not ever take my vehicles anywhere to get repaired. It costs me less to educate myself and invest in a few special tools so I can do all my own repairs. Plus, I know exactly who to cuss out if the repairs aren't up to snuff.

Rene
 
couldnt have said it better meself. good point Rene!!! im 300% in agreence (sp) learn how to do things yourself so its done right and if not you get to learn more from it. makes us all better. :waytogo:
 
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