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Some brake help needed

Babaganoosh

Babaganoosh

1 ton status
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Today on my way home I had a really stiff pedal and had to be pressed to the floor to at least slow down. I have been reading up and this could be a few things. Possible the brake booster, the pressure regulating valve located about 4 inches from the booster and also the lines there look horrible and possibly the originals. What else could I look at as well? This is on my 82 c10


Thanks Guys
Ben
 
go step on the pedal a few times with the truck off to deplete any vacuum in the booster. Now, with your foot on the pedal, start the truck, the pedal should drop slightly, if it doesn't, make sure you have vacuum to it, and if you do, you got a bad booster.
 
Thanks Jason, I will go outside right now and try that.

Also, I forgot to add when I was pushing on the brakes before it made a gurgling sound.
 
Ok, just went outside and pushed the pedal about 10 times, started it up did not go down any further. I removed the vacuum like leading into it and got vacuum.

So with this theory Jason, it's the booster?
 
Crappy, not what I wanted to hear.:mad: Oh well guess that's what you get for daily driving a 25 year old truck.

Thank you so much for your help Jason.
 
I have a few, if you want to drive for a cheap one. Or If you come help us pick up brians cab on sunday, I can get it to you then.
 
Hmmmm, very temping on the offer. I will see whats going on and we can go from there, not sure if I got wheels.


Thanks
Ben
 
Babaganoosh said:
Crappy, not what I wanted to hear.:mad: Oh well guess that's what you get for daily driving a 25 year old truck.

Thank you so much for your help Jason.
Click to expand...

Dude, swapping boosters is a HELL of a lot easier than swapping masters. if nothing else they're DRY ... brake fluid is slimy, slimy stuff :haha:

-- A
 
dremu said:
Dude, swapping boosters is a HELL of a lot easier than swapping masters. if nothing else they're DRY ... brake fluid is slimy, slimy stuff :haha:

-- A
Click to expand...


That is very true, I thought it was a lot harder then it actually is. After reading on here, I think I might go with a 3/4ton booster If everything will mate up correctly? I could only find information on the 1st gen swap. I know it sure as heck would help braking with a load.
 
Babaganoosh said:
That is very true, I thought it was a lot harder then it actually is. After reading on here, I think I might go with a 3/4ton booster If everything will mate up correctly? I could only find information on the 1st gen swap. I know it sure as heck would help braking with a load.
Click to expand...

I s'pect you'll find it's the same part number as the "1/2 ton." :whistle:

Changing the booster won't help your brakes materially (well, hydroboost can, but that's different.) Bigger calipers or larger diameter rotors would help with stopping. (Also, *good* calipers and lines are important :D )

-- A
 
Browsing Autozones website they list the part numbers differently. So, what you are saying there would be no advantage buying the 3/4ton vs the 1/2ton? They are the same price so I figured what the heck if I can't get a hold of one of Jason's.
 
I thought usually it's the 1-ton booster that people swap out for. That's what I used. Not sure if there's any difference though.
 
Babaganoosh said:
There is another option as well.
Click to expand...

Well, sorta ... but we talked about that. One-tons have hydroboost, which, yep, is a great thing ... but means swapping your power steering pump, booster, master, brake pedal, and assorted plumbing. BTDT :doah:

My experience with vacuum boosters, which admittedly is for the 73-80 trucks, says that they're all basically the same.

My experience with brake systems says that changing parts piecemeal to something other than stock will come back to bite you in the ass. Either swap the whole thing to hydroboost, or replace stock parts with stock parts... changing anything can make it worse and makes it hard to diagnose what's wrong.

I don't mean to be a hardnose or rude here, but I have had some experience in this arena (including "upgrades" making an otherwise perfectly good truck completely undriveable :haha: ) and so I feel compelled to share.

On my K5 I still have a stock-type master and vacuum booster, the stock combo valve, and discs front and back. (Fronts are 3/4 calipers and rears are Caddy Eldos.) That thing will stop when I bang on the pedal, like push you out of your seat. (If the Doubler is in 4:1, she'll try and creep unless I push the pedal hard, but hey, that's a LOT of torque, ya know?)

Point being it WORKS, so I shouldn't mess with it.

On my sixpack I have hydroboost with a stock-type master, no combo valve, adjustable prop valve, and discs on all four corners (one-ton Bendixes up front on and Eldos in back again, but on weird rotors as it's a dually.) This one will fling you through the windshield if I bang on the brakes hard enough. :D

But, it was a PITA getting it to that point, and it took me MONTHS, seriously, of the truck not being safe to move out of the driveway (as in totally flat pedal, leaking brake fluid, etc etc etc) to get it there. :mad: It *was* working and I "improved" it, Tim Taylor style, and took me FOREVER to get it *really* working again. If I hadn't torn it apart, I'd have put the stock combo valve back in by now.

Your mileage may vary, professional test driver only (do not try at home), void where prohibited, allow six to eight weeks for delivery, printed on 100%
recycled electrons, etc.

-- A
 
One-tons have hydroboost,
Click to expand...

Was that a 73+ thing only? I ordered a 71 K30 booster for my 71 which was larger than the stock one that was on there. It seemed to fit fine except for the pushrod length had to be shortened a bit.
 
dremu said:
Well, sorta ... but we talked about that. One-tons have hydroboost, which, yep, is a great thing ... but means swapping your power steering pump, booster, master, brake pedal, and assorted plumbing. BTDT :doah:

My experience with vacuum boosters, which admittedly is for the 73-80 trucks, says that they're all basically the same.

My experience with brake systems says that changing parts piecemeal to something other than stock will come back to bite you in the ass. Either swap the whole thing to hydroboost, or replace stock parts with stock parts... changing anything can make it worse and makes it hard to diagnose what's wrong.

I don't mean to be a hardnose or rude here, but I have had some experience in this arena (including "upgrades" making an otherwise perfectly good truck completely undriveable :haha: ) and so I feel compelled to share.

On my K5 I still have a stock-type master and vacuum booster, the stock combo valve, and discs front and back. (Fronts are 3/4 calipers and rears are Caddy Eldos.) That thing will stop when I bang on the pedal, like push you out of your seat. (If the Doubler is in 4:1, she'll try and creep unless I push the pedal hard, but hey, that's a LOT of torque, ya know?)

Point being it WORKS, so I shouldn't mess with it.

On my sixpack I have hydroboost with a stock-type master, no combo valve, adjustable prop valve, and discs on all four corners (one-ton Bendixes up front on and Eldos in back again, but on weird rotors as it's a dually.) This one will fling you through the windshield if I bang on the brakes hard enough. :D

But, it was a PITA getting it to that point, and it took me MONTHS, seriously, of the truck not being safe to move out of the driveway (as in totally flat pedal, leaking brake fluid, etc etc etc) to get it there. :mad: It *was* working and I "improved" it, Tim Taylor style, and took me FOREVER to get it *really* working again. If I hadn't torn it apart, I'd have put the stock combo valve back in by now.

Your mileage may vary, professional test driver only (do not try at home), void where prohibited, allow six to eight weeks for delivery, printed on 100%
recycled electrons, etc.

-- A
Click to expand...


I really appreciate you telling about you experiences, I have no doubt on my mind you know what you are talking about. Heck 90% of my truck is pieced together. :haha: For all the time we have owned this truck we have always thought the brakes sucked and it needed more. I was hoping doing the 3/4ton booster would improve stopping power. More then likely like you are suggesting I will go with the stock replacement part, just looking for options to cheaply improve stopping power.

Thank you
Ben
 
I need some help, I want my wheels back so I'm going to ride my bicycle to autozone and buy a brake booster. According to my vin I have 5001-6001 hydraulic brakes, on autozones website they list jb3 and 5 systems. Which one would I need? After doing some google searching I found this

JB3 : BRAKE, POWER, DISC/DRUM, 4600 LBS
JB5 : BRAKE, POWER, DISC/DRUM, 6400 LBS
By just taking a guess I assume I would have JB5?

Thanks
Ben
 
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