What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Some Noob Maintenance Questions (Zirks, U-Bolts, Body Mount Bushings)

shima

shima

1/2 ton status
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Jul 19, 2016
Posts
1,310
Reaction score
1,501
Location
Denver
Hi all,

I got out there today and was set on doing my zirk fittings and tightening up all of my u-bolts. I ended up checking out my body mount bushings too.

Just hoping to run some random stuff by you all (questions are numbered):
  • Zirk Fittings
    • I found 8 zirk fittings up front (tie rod ends, drag link ends, upper / lower steering arms) and I found 0 out back.
      • 1: Did I miss any zirk fittings?
    • Some of my zirk fittings fed into some sketchy-looking rubber seals. I snapped a few photos located here: http://imgur.com/a/Pp5TG
      • 2: Does it look like any of those need to be replaced?
    • The last photo in the album above shows what looks like a zirk fitting on my rear drum.
      • 3: Is that indeed a zirk that I should be greasing on each side?
  • U-Bolts
    • The only u-bolts that I could see were those on the axles front and rear (on either side of the leaf springs).
      • 4. Did I miss any u-bolts?
    • There was so much extra "bolt" coming out that my sockets couldn't fit onto the nuts to tighten. Also, the nuts looked huge - I have seen people mention 5/8 and 9/16, these looked way bigger than that.
      • 5. I am guessing I gotta go out and get a big-ass socket that can fit over onto those things?
  • Body Mount Bushings
    • While I was under there, I saw a real bad looking body mount bushing. So, I snapped photos of the four that I could find (two per side of the body, between front and rear wheels) and those photos are here: http://imgur.com/a/1rIJX
      • 6. Did I miss any body mount bushings?
      • 7. How urgently would you all think I need to replace those (especially that really bad one - final picture)?
I just bought a Haynes manual. Based on its "chassis lubrication" section, I don't think I missed any zirks. I didn't find much on u-bolts and body mount locations, but I didn't look as hard as I could have.

Thanks for all input guys, I appreciate it.
 
Fitting on rear drum is a bleeder for brake fluid.
I bolts cut them down in size for socket to fit. Grinder/sawzaw.
 
brans87 said:
Fitting on rear drum is a bleeder for brake fluid.
I bolts cut them down in size for socket to fit. Grinder/sawzaw.
Click to expand...

Haha, that makes a ton more sense. Also, I managed to get grease on damn near everything (self, clothes, truck, ground)... so if anyone has any washing machine tips let me know!! :D
 
shima said:
Hi all,

I got out there today and was set on doing my zirk fittings and tightening up all of my u-bolts. I ended up checking out my body mount bushings too.

Just hoping to run some random stuff by you all (questions are numbered):
  • Zirk Fittings
    • I found 8 zirk fittings up front (tie rod ends, drag link ends, upper / lower steering arms) and I found 0 out back.
      • 1: Did I miss any zirk fittings? Doesnt sound like it
    • Some of my zirk fittings fed into some sketchy-looking rubber seals. I snapped a few photos located here: http://imgur.com/a/Pp5TG
      • 2: Does it look like any of those need to be replaced? Only if they are torn and allowing dirt in. New grease pumps the crud out.
    • The last photo in the album above shows what looks like a zirk fitting on my rear drum.
      • 3: Is that indeed a zirk that I should be greasing on each side? That is your brake fluid bleeder. NOT a grease fitting.
  • U-Bolts
    • The only u-bolts that I could see were those on the axles front and rear (on either side of the leaf springs).
      • 4. Did I miss any u-bolts? Only 8 ubolts on your truck holding your axles in place.
    • There was so much extra "bolt" coming out that my sockets couldn't fit onto the nuts to tighten. Also, the nuts looked huge - I have seen people mention 5/8 and 9/16, these looked way bigger than that. The bolt size is 9/16" but the socket size is likely 15/16" They need to be torqued to spec. Use a bolt torque chart after you identify ubolt size.
      • 5. I am guessing I gotta go out and get a big-ass socket that can fit over onto those things? That would be a correct assertion.
  • Body Mount Bushings
    • While I was under there, I saw a real bad looking body mount bushing. So, I snapped photos of the four that I could find (two per side of the body, between front and rear wheels) and those photos are here: http://imgur.com/a/1rIJX
      • 6. Did I miss any body mount bushings? There are six for a regular cab and more for other cab configurations. Check the ones under the radiator at the core support.
      • 7. How urgently would you all think I need to replace those (especially that really bad one - final picture)? Not a big deal, but certainly on the list.
I just bought a Haynes manual. Based on its "chassis lubrication" section, I don't think I missed any zirks. I didn't find much on u-bolts and body mount locations, but I didn't look as hard as I could have.

Thanks for all input guys, I appreciate it.
Click to expand...


My replies in RED

dont go outside in your good clothes.
 
obijuank5 said:
My replies in RED

dont go outside in your good clothes.
Click to expand...

Man, thank you so much! I definitely learned my lesson on the clothes thing... RIP.

I surfed the forum a good amount on replacing body mount bushings. Seems like most folks jack up one side at a time. Would that job be something a novice like me could do alone (without destroying anything)?
 
if you were doing it 20 years ago yeah it would probably be fine. but that rust in the one photo makes me thing its not going to go smooth and youll need several cutting devices as well as a torch and a lot of patience. and a healthy assortment of tools just in case you have to get creative.
 
You can run some hand cleaner like D-L and Dawn blue dish washing liquid on the grease spots before washing,that usually removes at least most of the grease stains..some laundry pre-soak stuff with oxogen like oxy-clean might work after the bulk of the grease is out..
Save those "ruined" clothes for your next truck repair episodes,if they refuse to come clean..

The u-bolts themselves are 9/16" or 5/8" threads--the nut size is usually 15/16" or close to that,and a deep socket is a must to tighten u-bolts unless you chop off the excess threads--a six point socket works best..

You may have grease fittings on the u-joints in the front & rear drive shaft too,some are sealed and cant be greased--the front drive shaft has a CV joint with a ball & socket device that has a grease fitting but its a weird one that needs a "needlpoint" grease tip to inject the grease into it..the fitting looks like a partly drilled hole,not the usual zerk type fitting...that one can be tough to get at and pump any grease into,but its worth doing,because that ball thing is part of the shaft and cant be replaced..

I have done quite a few body mount bushing replacements by jacking up only at the mount that is bad,after removing the bolt...you'll need a hunk of 4x4 post or similar item (log,etc) to let the jack reach that high and lift the body enough to get enough room to slide in the new bushings..be careful not to jack up on anything that looks crusty or weak,it will want to crush pretty easily..
 
shima said:
    • There was so much extra "bolt" coming out that my sockets couldn't fit onto the nuts to tighten. Also, the nuts looked huge - I have seen people mention 5/8 and 9/16, these looked way bigger than that.
      • 5. I am guessing I gotta go out and get a big-ass socket that can fit over onto those things?
Click to expand...

As an fyi, fasteners are measured by the thread diameter, not the head. That is, the ubiquitous 3/8" bolt on our trucks takes a 9/16" or wrench wrench, a 1/2" bolt takes 3/4", etc. (Some bolt sizes, 7/16" in particular, can use different size wrenches, even for the bolt head and the nut, just to annoy us :D )

In your case, the U-bolts will be 9/16" or 5/8" thread, but yes, the nuts will require a much larger socket or wrench. (If memory serves, 5/8" U-bolts usually use a 15/16" tool, but I could be wrong.)

Also, as noted, btw, the fitting on the brake is NOT FOR GREASE, that would be bad. It's a bleeder to let air OUT of the system :) There's another set on the calipers up front, same story.

Grease does get onto everything. I am a firm believer in nitrile rubber gloves, buy them literally by the 100-ct box. A lengthy wrenching session and I'll run through ten pairs, but it's worth it just to remind myself not to touch everything. And yeah, I have one set of clothes just for the garage. Old t-shirts, holy jeans, stuff I can't wear in public.

Trimming the thread on the U-bolts would best be done with a cutoff wheel on a grinder, IMO, but the almighty sawzaw would do it too. A 1/2" drive torque wrench and a set of 1/2" drive deep well sockets would be called for here.

I wouldn't try to change the body mounts, nasty as though they may be, until you have an impact wrench and more experience with replace bad fasteners. That's a bit of a project. Also read up on "panther piss" (penetrating oil), commonly sold under the brand names of "PB Blaster" or "Kroil." (Think WD40, but nuclear.)

-- A
 
Last edited:
dremu said:
[QUOTE="shima, post: 3793605, member: 82815"
    • There was so much extra "bolt" coming out that my sockets couldn't fit onto the nuts to tighten. Also, the nuts looked huge - I have seen people mention 5/8 and 9/16, these looked way bigger than that.
      • 5. I am guessing I gotta go out and get a big-ass socket that can fit over onto those things?
Click to expand...

As an fyi, fasteners are measured by the thread diameter, not the head. That is, the ubiquitous 3/8" bolt on our trucks takes a 9/16" or wrench wrench, a 1/2" bolt takes 3/4", etc. (Some bolt sizes, 7/16" in particular, can use different size wrenches, even for the bolt head and the nut, just to annoy us :D )

In your case, the U-bolts will be 9/16" or 5/8" thread, but yes, the nuts will require a much larger socket or wrench. (If memory serves, 5/8" U-bolts usually use a 15/16" tool, but I could be wrong.)

Also, as noted, btw, the fitting on the brake is NOT FOR GREASE, that would be bad. It's a bleeder to let air OUT of the system :) There's another set on the calipers up front, same story.

Grease does get onto everything. I am a firm believer in nitrile rubber gloves, buy them literally by the 100-ct box. A lengthy wrenching session and I'll run through ten pairs, but it's worth it just to remind myself not to touch everything. And yeah, I have one set of clothes just for the garage. Old t-shirts, holy jeans, stuff I can't wear in public.

Trimming the thread on the U-bolts would best be done with a cutoff wheel on a grinder, IMO, but the almighty sawzaw would do it too. A 1/2" drive torque wrench and a set of 1/2" drive deep well sockets would be called for here.

I wouldn't try to change the body mounts, nasty as though they may be, until you have an impact wrench and more experience with replace bad fasteners. That's a bit of a project. Also read up on "panther piss" (penetrating oil), commonly sold under the brand names of "PB Blaster" or "Kroil." (Think WD40, but nuclear.)

-- A[/QUOTE]
Haven't heard the term panther piss for awhile

+1 to all the above, and remember it doesnt have to all be done at once
 
Pb blaster etc does not have shit on this stuff. But it is not over sold over the counter.

image.jpg
 
Ive got some if the Zep brand equivalent. Awesome
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom