CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

some questions on fender flares body & suspension lift

oclenox

Registered Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2012
Posts
13
Reaction score
0
Location
Bavaria / Germany
Hello, you may have heard this many times but searched the forum quite some time but i can't find the proper answers.

so some background informations on my rig:
it was a former cucv 1008 K30

454 with impco Ca 325 propane conversion
Transmission TH 400 NP 208

stock steering

front:
Add a leaf and 2" Blocks

rear:
6" blocks (my rear springs are worn out, or?)

currently running hummer tires 36x12.5/16.5 also got with my truck 39.5x15/16.5 super swamper tsl

Plan is putting the tsl's on and keep the rig street legal :confused:
one important part is that the tires must not stick out of the fenders.


so now i'm thinking getting Bushwacker Cut Out's along with an 1" Body lift kit

i thought i should start with the front and buy some standard lengh lift springs (maybe 4" Tuff Country HD ones)

And now will it work out ? or am i running against a wall?

best regards from germany
Michael

BTW awesome site with great rigs!
 
Definitely want to get some new front springs. Blocks up front can be dangerous.

Cant tell you much about fender flares, dont have to worry about tire coverage where I live so Ive never messed with any. But you will need fender trimming if you only lift it 4 inches with 39.5s. With the cut out fender flares and the body lift it may clear but I dont know for sure.

Steering modification will be needed with more lift as well. Either components to make the stock steering work or better yet get crossover set up on it. Since you have a dana 60 already crossover is a bolt on affair.

And welcome from Germany:waytogo:
 
with crossover steering i have to ditch the sway bar or is there any possibility to keep the sway bar?

thank you!
 
you have to ditch the factory sway bar. If you want a sway bar with crossover you will have to use a custom built one.
 
now i'm a little bit confused i did some research on crossover steering and i found this: (hope its not forbidden to link this)
http://biggschevys.com/garage/1974K5BlazerBeastly/1974K5BlazerBeastly-History.html
crossover.JPG


am i missing something ?? i thought this is not possible?:doah:
 
Looks like it clears at ride height but I bet if you flexed it out there would be contact between the swaybar and drag link.

I used a straight drag link on my crossover and I could hook up the swaybar at ride height but clearance would have been tight, it would have rubbed if I turned the wheels all the way one direction. The clearance isnt as tight with the bent drag link so it seems but I bet that it would still rub.
 
Hello my plans are going on and i have another question:
How much is the space between the frame to the front/rear axle tube on a stock unlifted K30?
Thank you for your help!
 
Definitely ditch the front suspension setup. The 6" blocks out back are also a bit scary.

Depending on what you do with the truck, running stock steering is just fine. You will lose the ability to steer in high flex conditions, but if you don't foresee much of that, going with a corrected stock steering setup is fine. Then you can continue using the sway bar. I would not run it like the picture above. Get a dropped pitman arm for the steering box or lifted steering arm block for the axle. Or a combination of the two if you go taller than 6".

I don't know the measurement you are looking for. Most trucks now are lifted or are old and sagging. I'm sure someone has something, give them time for a reply.

40" tires are going to need a lot of room. Any fender cutting or fender flares are going to be a custom job. Here in California, I can get away with 2" of tire sticking out. I think I'm pushing that limit. I'm running 4" lift, 1" Zero Rates, and 1" body. My 38" need a good bit of fender trimming to get good suspension travel. I could drive it without trimming, but it would be limited to street only.
 
Well i think i over complicated it a bit, how much is the space between the frame to the front/rear axle tube on a K30/Blazer with xxx lift ?

And i'm thinking of an 4" shackle flip kit to get rid of those blocks.

best regards
 
Well i think i over complicated it a bit, how much is the space between the frame to the front/rear axle tube on a K30/Blazer with xxx lift ?

And i'm thinking of an 4" shackle flip kit to get rid of those blocks.

best regards
if you get the 4 inch flip.you will also need either a 2 inch left block or add a leaf to get back the 6 inch lift you have now.lift blocks as everyone else said is really bad idea in the front end.it puts a ton of leverage on the steering joints and springs.im surprised you dont have crazy death wobble from the caster angle being off.6 inch lift springs in the front with a degree shim will will work much better and get you closer to running those bigger tires.
 
As the rear is sitting high, i thought doing the shackle flip with probably a Zerorate to level it out.
And for the front i thougt doing a 52" spring swap which should also result also in 4" lift and maybe longer shackles.

But i dont understand what the blocks have to do with caster angle?
 
Welcome to the site!

Do you have a list of rules from TUV that you have to meet? I expect that there are many modifications that they may not allow you to make and still pass the safety inspection. It would be good to understand those restrictions as soon as possible to avoid problems later on.


-G
 
Well i think i over complicated it a bit, how much is the space between the frame to the front/rear axle tube on a K30/Blazer with xxx lift ?

And i'm thinking of an 4" shackle flip kit to get rid of those blocks.

best regards

A stock truck will measure ~8.5-9" from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame.
 
Welcome to the site!

Do you have a list of rules from TUV that you have to meet? I expect that there are many modifications that they may not allow you to make and still pass the safety inspection. It would be good to understand those restrictions as soon as possible to avoid problems later on.


-G

Hello
well the most important is the tire coverage, the tire must be fully covered
by the fender. And i must use a sway bar. To say it the TUEV has not much knowledge about those trucks. so i hope to get some mods sneaked by :whistle:.
I´m pretty shure a shackle flip kit woudn't matter. But I can't do Diy4x ones because of the lasered letters.



A stock truck will measure ~8.5-9" from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame.


Thank you i have about 13-13.5" so it means roughly about 4,5" lift.
hmm im thinkig of getting the Bushwacker cut outs and try the 39,5" tires?

greetings
 
As the rear is sitting high, i thought doing the shackle flip with probably a Zerorate to level it out.
And for the front i thougt doing a 52" spring swap which should also result also in 4" lift and maybe longer shackles.

But i dont understand what the blocks have to do with caster angle?
the axle has to be within certain specs with regard to being centered on the ball joints and the angle at witch the axle is dreiven down the road.most people will have a problem with lift but as you are only using lift blocks in front the castor angle wont change too much im guessing.i missread that earlier then.as far as the bushwacker flairs,if you are not worried about cutting into the body of your truck,you can run a much bigger tire if all that the body has to do is cover the tires.in the us most states will fail you for having lift blocks in the front and look at frame height and head/tailight height for legality of a lifted truck.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom