UPDATE: So started fixing bad looking grounds about the engine to see if things would change. They did but not in a good way. Still no blinkers or hazers locks going crazy let the truck run for a bit and the truck wont idle down. PLUS you can watch the volts go down as you turn things on. So I'M guessing the alternator isn't working cause its not charging and i only get 12V. WHAT THE HELL...
CK5
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Something Small. Please Help.
- Thread starter Xcrawler
- Start date
K found that the plug to the alternator was burned up. So i fixed that and now the truck charges. Then after a bit the truck idled down. So that's good. Hooked up a jumper cable to the negative side of the battery and jump it to the frame but still the same. Blinkers and doors. ANY More thoughts. Any ideas where to look.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
I wonder if one of your door lock switches is fried inside...
No clue why it would draw power from the lights, tho....
Could potentially have an issue with both.
Check all yer marker light grounds, too...
No clue why it would draw power from the lights, tho....
Could potentially have an issue with both.
Check all yer marker light grounds, too...
OK, when you say the door locks are going constantly, do you mean that they are going all the way up and all the way down, or just in one direction all the time.
If they are going both ways, you might need to call a priest, because that thing may be possessed.
But, if just one way, then more than likely you have welded one of the switches. If you try to run a motor on wrong voltage, it can draw a lot more current than normal.
If you hit the door lock switch when the voltage was wrong, it might have welded the contacts.
However, if you have some kind of automatic locking system or alarm, then it might be opening and closing the door locks due to low voltage confusing it.
The lights are almost certainly a ground problem. Probably a body ground instead of a frame ground.
If the turn signal lights come on when you turn on the headlights, then the power for the headlights is backfeeding through the turn signals because they cannot find a good ground.
If your negative cable has the little pigtail attached at the clamp, it has to be connected to a good clean place on the body.
I would find the fuse or circuit breaker for the door locks and pull it. If that does not change the light situation, then start checking body grounds.
In 1990, there is a big master ground inside the cab attached to the ALDL bracket behind the left side of the IP.
On some cars, it was behind the left kickplate.
But, you almost certainly still have a bad ground, wherever it is.
If they are going both ways, you might need to call a priest, because that thing may be possessed.
But, if just one way, then more than likely you have welded one of the switches. If you try to run a motor on wrong voltage, it can draw a lot more current than normal.
If you hit the door lock switch when the voltage was wrong, it might have welded the contacts.
However, if you have some kind of automatic locking system or alarm, then it might be opening and closing the door locks due to low voltage confusing it.
The lights are almost certainly a ground problem. Probably a body ground instead of a frame ground.
If the turn signal lights come on when you turn on the headlights, then the power for the headlights is backfeeding through the turn signals because they cannot find a good ground.
If your negative cable has the little pigtail attached at the clamp, it has to be connected to a good clean place on the body.
I would find the fuse or circuit breaker for the door locks and pull it. If that does not change the light situation, then start checking body grounds.
In 1990, there is a big master ground inside the cab attached to the ALDL bracket behind the left side of the IP.
On some cars, it was behind the left kickplate.
But, you almost certainly still have a bad ground, wherever it is.
The Locks only go down. I pulled the fuse to stop it but it didn't change the blinkers. May be ill just change them both out. It doesn't cost much. I agree with all of you about the ground. I'll check all the body grounds again. If you guys know where they are or should be that would help greatly. All of this has been so much help. Thanks so much.
body to battery, engine to battery, engine to body, and any others that you want, gets redundant after awhile though 
On my 98 we had some grounding issues I ended up running some off the radiator to the body and both side of the engine. Finally figured it out it was the oil lines running through the cooler in the radiator that were grounding out, took out six radiators figuring that one out.
On my 98 we had some grounding issues I ended up running some off the radiator to the body and both side of the engine. Finally figured it out it was the oil lines running through the cooler in the radiator that were grounding out, took out six radiators figuring that one out.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
body to battery, engine to battery, engine to body, and any others that you want, gets redundant after awhile though
On my 98 we had some grounding issues I ended up running some off the radiator to the body and both side of the engine. Finally figured it out it was the oil lines running through the cooler in the radiator that were grounding out, took out six radiators figuring that one out.
What the heck. The only ground was the oil lines? What was it doing to the radiators
No it was using the oil lines as a ground and eating the radiator out internally.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Some beach, I've been fighting radiator issues in my suburban for as long as I've owned it. And I know its a weird issues, I was thinking electrolisis, ill have to check out my neg cable and grounds
That actually is electrolysis, when the radiator is a conductor of electricity.
Now you finally figured it out.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Yeah ice, i knew it was but didn't know where it was coming from.
Ok, sorry thread jack over
Ok, sorry thread jack over
OK so I found the problem with the lights. The Two front blinkers where burnt out and the lights in the rear where burnt out. Changed them all to new and BOOM they all work. Ordered new locks for the truck should be here tomorrow. So when i get the locks in ill let you all know if it stops. Thanks again. I also made some new grounds but i haven't put in a second battery. SHOULD I? Do you all run two batteries?
Do you need to no, do I yes but they are on separate circuits so if I leave something one it wont kill them both.
It took like four years and three mechanics and a bunch of new radiators. I was on my last one they were not going to give me a new one again. To find that and I just found it out of the blue
It took like four years and three mechanics and a bunch of new radiators. I was on my last one they were not going to give me a new one again. To find that and I just found it out of the blue
So changed out the lock switch. But still have the problem. Traced it back to a relay under the dash, But the auto parts store has no door lock relay. It also has some speaker wires going to it as well but they need a part number. Anyone run into this thing under the dash before?
Uh oh, That sounds like an owner installed remote lock kit or part of an alarm system. Not only do I not know of a relay on a regular door lock setup, one relay would not do it.
You would have to have two to lock and unlock them.
But, if you just wanted to lock or unlock them, one relay would do that.
I'm guessing the speaker wires go to some kind of control that locks the doors under some circumstance.
See if you can find where they go. Also, a good pic of the relay, and/or what wires are hooked to what number terminals would help.
Especially the speaker wires.
Thanks for getting back so fast. Ill try and take a pic of it. But it looks factory. And way up under the dash. Tho there are some clues that makes me think that it had an alarm way back. Very small clues.
