What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Something sqeaking in drivetrain??? ***UPDATE***

Big Blzn

Big Blzn

1/2 ton status
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Jan 30, 2006
Posts
3,587
Reaction score
2
Location
Orange County, CA.
So I have a new noise that has started in the drivetrain. Here's what happens: When I give it normal gas there is a sqeaking that occurs under acceleration but not when coasting. Sounds kinda like a sqealer on brake shoes when they are worn and need to be replaced. Seems to sqeak at the same point in a rotational cycle. Got under the blazer and visually checked and shook drive shafts and u-joints and they seem to be tight and fine. Could this be the precursor to the u-joints failing? Pinion bearing failing? Any ideas as to noise or what to check next? Thanks in advance.
Hoby

The noise seems to get worse throughout the day.
 
Last edited:
4X4HIGH said:
Definately a bad u-joint
Click to expand...

Well, I replaced the u-joint and the sqealing noise is still there. Seems like it is going to be something beyond my capabilities. Anyone else have any ideas. Starting to get desperate here. :confused:
 
Did you replace both u-joints?

The joint at the t-case is the first to go usually.
 
Fock......................NO!!!!!!!! I bought two of them and wasn't really sure what the hell I was doing and just winged it on the one by the pinion and finally (2 hours) got it installed. I was about to do the one at the t-case but got too fustrated and it is so damn cramped up there plus like I said it "felt and looked fine", I know that sounds stupid. Maybe tomarrow night to relpace that one. 4x4high, seems like you are familiar with the noise I'm experiencing and you think that is it? Could it be anything in the diff housing?
 
4X4HIGH said:
Did you replace both u-joints?

The joint at the t-case is the first to go usually.
Click to expand...
as dumb as this may sound. my drums are outta round and make a similar noise.i only heard it around vans or bigger vehicles.then i heard it by the house going down the driveway.having the rear tires off yesterday is when i saw the problem.but i'm prolly wrong about this squeak.:laugh:
 
What is the best way to change out the original u-joints with the plastic retainer? I have the same thing going on right now and am going to replace both of them but have never done one with out the clips. I have heard of a torch but I don’t have one.
 
A large socket or anything else that is larger than the u-joint cap and a big hammer works well.
 
you mean like the plastic injected u-joints from the factory? well on my front i used a drill with a small bit and drilled it out and then used the socket and hammer method to drive it out. worked well and didn't take too long.
 
Ok, I thought I read some were that you can press it out and that will break it also. Thanx.
 
plastic injection joints LOVE a fire wrench. heat it up, it'll squirt plastic out like a tiny, burning hot turd.
 
***Update***

Well I finally got the u-joint next to the t-case on the shaft and it was the one making the noise. One of the caps was full of what looked like about a teaspoon of powder and sawdust but make of metal.

Now here is another problem I ran into when I buttoned everything up and went for a drive. It seems that there is a very slight vibration at certain RPM ranges but nothing that vibrates all the time. I thought I read that it is a good idea to have the driveshaft balanced on DD's if the u-joints are replaced. Is this correct or what could cause this vibe to occur? Def not a death wobble though. Any thoughts???
 
Take a close look at how your u-joint is mounted to the t-case and diff yolks. Its a common mistake to not center it in the tabs properly when doing u-joints for the first time. On either side of the yolk where the u-joint caps sit, there is a little raised tab, just make sure that the cap of the u-joint is pressed up against it on the inside, and not sitting on top of it.

Also make sure that your little retainer clips got installed properly, they should be sitting flat against the cap, and not bent outwards to either side. If it is, give that side a couple hits with the hammer to move the u-joint to the other side a touch
 
did you also mark the shaft and yokes to make sure it was put together the same way?
 
No. Unfortunatley on the u-joint at the pinion one the axle I "had" to pull the shaft aoart at the slip/spline area to replace it. Then later on I finally got the entire shaft out to do the joint at the t-case. I didn't mark the shaft so they would get put back in the exact same place as far as the splines go etc. I knew then and know now it wasn't the proper way but with frustration and all that's what I did. Should get re-balanced right?
 
i'd say yeah. not too expensive and if it doesn't solve the problem you'llhave one less thing to worry about
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom