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****..... somethins fried.

theres potential voltage. Or in simple terms, you have a wire that goes to the battery post positive and is somewhat "alive" When you touch it to ground, it will short out.


The starter has a battery cable going to it (positive) then there is a wire coming from the ignition switch, which is also positive.
 
i had this same problem when i got my truck. the PO hooked the battery up backwards and it fried all the fusible links. so i just put in another harness, then i accidently hooked the battery up backwards cuz the PO put a red wire as negative and black for positive:mad: fried the harness agian. i tried to rewire it but i must of screwed something up cuz i go through an alternator once a month
 
the multimeter is to check for a short/ground in the positive cable going to the starter solenoid, same thing for the starter solenoid. I would pull the positive cable going to the solenoid and look for bad /bare spots where the copper wire is showing, or black burnt spots. If there appear to be no bad spots, then pull the starter and check the large stud that the positive cable attaches to. Is it loose, or the plastic around it melted? You can check the starter out of the rig by using a set of jumper cables and a battery. Hook the neg jumper to wherever it will hold on the starter, but not the solenoid. Hook the pos cable to the stud on the solenoid. Use a screwdriver to jump tween the big stud and the little stud on the solenoid. Put a foot on the starter so it doesn't take off when the solenoid engages it. If you get your BIG spark when hooking up your jumper cables, then I would replace the starter and the solenoid, cause one of them is definately shorted out. Hope this helps.
 
well i just spent a couple hours going over everything and i found the problem...

header roasted my starter(pausitive battery cable) wire. Almost burn right through it. Looks like autozone just closed too. Hope that cures it.


thanks for all the help.
 
Well i jimmy rigged my starter wire up and still no power... I know its not the wire i rigged because all the connections are good... I took a 4 inch metal bar, a couple bolts, and a coulpe washers and then cut the burnt spot out of the wire. I cut back about an inch of the isulation on both wires(one wire but cut into 2) and then split the copper guts into a "V" shape. then i put the v around the bolt and continued to tighten it down onto the bar... all the surfaces were hit with wd40 and wire brushed to a shine before i did this and i used a half roll of electrical sealing it all up. It can't be the wire that was burnt that is causing the problem know(might have been before). I think the wire was the problem and blew something but its not any more.

My question is how easy is it to blow the grey things on the fuse box? You know the ones that go in the 2 power spots and have costa rica printed on em? How do i tell if they are blown and how much do they cost?
 
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well, i'm not exactly sure what repair you did with that bolt, but it sounds like a hella hack... :p: i would break down and spend $20 on 6' of some good tinned battery cable and replace the whole length at first opportunity..

but anyway.. you need a testlight. or multimeter... a testlight is dirt cheap and simpler... first check that power is getting to that stud on the starter.. that stud should now feed the smaller wire heading over to the fuse block. iirc, without looking at the wiring diagram, there should be a fusable link in that line, that i'm betting is blown..

if the testlight lights at the stud, trace the small wire past the fuseable link and pierce the wire with the testlight, i'll bet its dead...

your not getting power anywhere? correct?
 
It's the ebay motor!!! ;) :histerical: JUST KIDDING!!! :thumb:



ANyhow. I speed read through the posts... Did you check the fusible link on the firewall? It's to the left of the power steering booster(looking at the booster fromt he front bumper)....

Had a bare stereo wire come in contact with my dash and it burnt that link in my '86. Had no power until I replaced that section of wire.
 
Nope shes completly dead. no power.

actually what i did was pretty damn good considering what i had to work with... sounds like crap when i try to explain on the computer but its about the best jimmy rig job you can do. i'd post pics but i can't. It stopped arking after i did that tho so it will work for now until i get some $$$ in my pocket.

I'm doing some work for my neighbor for 15 bucks an hour and i need to buy intake gaskets, tbi gasket, 14 quarts of oil, gas, fan shroud, and radiator mounts and i can't spare the 20 for the cable.

problem is he only has one days work for me.

What does the fusible link look like?



oh yeah.... she runs great..... when i got power.:grin:
 
dirtwarrior17 said:
What does the fusible link look like?
Click to expand...

There should be a connector ont he firewall about 2" wide or so by about 1/2" to 3/4" thick with two studs coming off of it. One of the wires connected will go down into a small round cylindrical black connector and come out as two wires. Not sure if it is really a fusible link or not, but I fired that in mine and it didn't run afterwards. Check to see if the is power before and after that with your multimeter or test light.
 
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