Speaking of trans fluid.....about how much needs to be added after new trans install?

[vandelay industries]

Does anyone have any idea of how much more transmission fluid needs to be added to a new/reman trans install?

1) Reman TH-350 which was filled by the rebuilder.

2) i flushed the cooler, but that was only a few pints. (stock in-radiator cooler 2wd)

3) The new converter was filled with about 1 qt. of fluid before going on the trans.

i ran it for a few secs yesterday but no engagement R or Forward.

 

[76zimmer]

Plan on 10 qts on a new trans
Usually they are pretty dry when installed and 1qt in the convertor
Depending on the size of the converter and pan it could be 9-14 qts total

 

[longbedder]

1) Reman TH-350 which was filled by the rebuilder.

2) i flushed the cooler, but that was only a few pints. (stock in-radiator cooler 2wd)

3) The new converter was filled with about 1 qt. of fluid before going on the trans.

i ran it for a few secs yesterday but no engagement R or Forward.

Depends how much actually got left in there from the rebuilder (usually not much). The converter alone should be about 3 quarts, the trans with stock pan probably an additional 4 quarts.

 

[vandelay industries]

Depends how much actually got left in there from the rebuilder (usually not much). The converter alone should be about 3 quarts, the trans with stock pan probably an additional 4 quarts.

The trans came with the pan full to point where it could leak out the dipstick tube opening (but didn't because of the plug) or the kickdown cable opening.

 

[76zimmer]

I would say that is about 4 qts on a stock 350 pan. So you have about 5 in it now, and you’ll need another 3-4 to see it on the dipstick while running, and then it should engage all gears. Top it off while warm.
My T400 took 14 qts total with an auxiliary cooler and filter(+2qts) and a 400 takes 2 more qts than a 350.

 

[1-ton]

I had to start up a fresh new engine and transmission at the same time. Usually I do not like to do this because my engine has a flat tappet cam, and I had to rev up the RPM's to break in the cam while having to deal with a fresh transmission that needed fluid added to at the same time of starting everything. I started with 7-Qt's of trans fluid in my 4L80E, and about 1-Qt in the torque converter. My 4L80E sucked in that 7-Qt's in a hurry, and I had my 16- year old kid add another 2 more Qt's while I was holding the throttle open at 2000 RPM to break in the new cam.

That was enough fluid to keep my trans from burning up for the next 20 minutes while I broke in the new cam. After I was able to let the engine idle, I started to put the trans in gear, and then it ate up more fluid in a hurry. I had to add about 1-Qt. more to bring it to level, until I could drive it around, and then I had to add another Pint, in order to bring to the full mark on the stick.

 

[tenderfoot]

I had to start up a fresh new engine and transmission at the same time. Usually I do not like to do this because my engine has a flat tappet cam, and I had to rev up the RPM's to break in the cam while having to deal with a fresh transmission that needed fluid added to at the same time of starting everything. I started with 7-Qt's of trans fluid in my 4L80E, and about 1-Qt in the torque converter. My 4L80E sucked in that 7-Qt's in a hurry, and I had my 16- year old kid add another 2 more Qt's while I was holding the throttle open at 2000 RPM to break in the new cam.

That was enough fluid to keep my trans from burning up for the next 20 minutes while I broke in the new cam. After I was able to let the engine idle, I started to put the trans in gear, and then it ate up more fluid in a hurry. I had to add about 1-Qt. more to bring it to level, until I could drive it around, and then I had to add another Pint, in order to bring to the full mark on the stick.

Reading that stressed me out

 

[76zimmer]

I had to start up a fresh new engine and transmission at the same time. Usually I do not like to do this because my engine has a flat tappet cam, and I had to rev up the RPM's to break in the cam while having to deal with a fresh transmission that needed fluid added to at the same time of starting everything. I started with 7-Qt's of trans fluid in my 4L80E, and about 1-Qt in the torque converter. My 4L80E sucked in that 7-Qt's in a hurry, and I had my 16- year old kid add another 2 more Qt's while I was holding the throttle open at 2000 RPM to break in the new cam.

That was enough fluid to keep my trans from burning up for the next 20 minutes while I broke in the new cam. After I was able to let the engine idle, I started to put the trans in gear, and then it ate up more fluid in a hurry. I had to add about 1-Qt. more to bring it to level, until I could drive it around, and then I had to add another Pint, in order to bring to the full mark on the stick.

leave the torque convertor unbolted from the flywheel.

 

[vandelay industries]

Or run the engine on a stand first. i always like to do that because i think it's easier to tune and spot things.

 

[Kain]

mine took 14 total

 

[vandelay industries]

Anyways, diagnosis pretty spot on----i had to add 4 quarts and it engaged. i still have to add probably at least 1 more quart.

i should have stated that this was my first trans swap in a long time.

i went with:
http://www.atiracing.com/

They are pretty close to me and i think they are a 1st class operation and i've done business with them in the past.

i went with the '"street rodder"/"street-strip" basic TH-350. Seems to shift a little firm for me, but not so harsh that i can't live with it. This is a daily driver, not necessarily a "hotrod."

Also went with B+M traveller converter.

 

[vandelay industries]

i made some notes:

i've made a few notes for reference:

i got the Harbor Freight Trans jack, #60234, which did pretty good. My only complaints are i wish the adjustments for the support arms were underneath the saddle rather than on top-----so you can adjust them easier when the trans is on the jack. And, the tilt knobs i thought are too high up such that there can be interference between them and the trans depending on what angle you need.

As seen here, IF you are going to the roll the trans under the car with this jack, then you need minimum 26", UNLESS you tilt the trans forward; In that case, you might be able to get by with as little as 18". If you slide the trans under the car w/out the jack, and then put it on the jack while underneath the car, then you could also get by with less height, although i'm not sure how you could do this unless you had a helper?

i underestimated the amount of height needed, using only ramps under the rear wheels, but i still got it in by tilting the trans forward as necessary AND lifting the rear axle by about 1/4"----i think the new pan may be a little deeper than stock?

i am not totally sure on the actual size of the hardware, but these at least are the wrench/socket sizes: NOTE these are for 2WD truck:

Driveshaft 7/16"
Cooler lines 11/16" flare = fittings that go into the trans, although could be 5/8" flare
1/2" flare = fitting that screws into the large fitting that goes into the trans. as well as fitting that screw into radiator trans cooler.

Kickdown cable retainer = 11mm

torque converter to flexplate = 15mm if later lockup models, 9/16" both bolt and nut if non-lockup or pre 78?

Transmount to crossmember = 5/8"
Transmount to Trans = 5/8" However, later models (after 77) and lockup units may take 15mm

Crossmbember to frame = nut is 11/16", bolt is 5/8" There are 8 total
For the upper crossmember support to main cross member = three 9/16" nuts and bolts.

Bracket for TCC wiring plug = 15mm (note, only applies to lockup models)