Is there a special tool needed to remove temp sendor plug on the passenger side of a 91 350? Looked like my 3/8 drive would fit in there but it's to big and the 1/4 drive is to small WTF.
CK5
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Special tool needed to remove temp sendor plug?
- Thread starter CK5
- Start date
Go buy a CHEAP Chinese 3/8's extension and massage the end with a grinder until it fits. The plug is ****in' metric on the later engines. 
Don't worry, they usually don't come out and you end up drilling them anyways. I know, not what you wanted to hear but it's the gods truth most of the time.
I keep a supply of different sized SS keyway stock in my box for that reason... Then I just use a female square drive socket of the appropriate size to drive it.. Wrench'd work too...
Welp, ****ed it up because the plug wouldn't budge, then drilled it out to put in an easy out, then the craftsman easyout broke off flush with the block. 
So now it looks like I am going to cover it up with JB weld in hopes it lasts till this fall, then put in a new motor, I'm done with this leaky POS anyway. Don't need a temp gauge as they are only needed if you care about your engine which I don't.
So now it looks like I am going to cover it up with JB weld in hopes it lasts till this fall, then put in a new motor, I'm done with this leaky POS anyway. Don't need a temp gauge as they are only needed if you care about your engine which I don't.
eesh, sorry to that.. Hope that holds for ya... But hey, I've seen guys JB Detroit blocks and they've held...
Now thats funny...
Now thats funny...
Take a large nut that is barely smaller than the plug and find a way to hold it solid/steady over the plug and broken ease-out. Then weld it like a roset weld, starting with welding the ease-out to the plug, then picking up the inside of the nut. Probalby have to take out inner fender, but it will almost certainly (every time in my experience) break the rust loose and the bolt/plug will come out. There is no other way to add heat that fast, and it shatters the oxide which can't handle the rapid change. Worst case, it's welded up and won't leak...
Well, that shouldn't be a problem.
I might try that in a few weeks, will be in the middle of moving soon. Wonder if it would be easier to weld a short bolt in there instead of a nut, might be able to hold the end of the bolt with a socket and weld around the threads, on 2nd thought, the leverage might snap it off again??
Oh, is this on the truggy? Some reason I was thinking the Sub, do you even still have that?
Anyway, problem with a bolt is that you can very easily arc over into the block and blow holes or weld the plug to the block, or effectively form something like a keyway that won't let it turn due to mechanical interference. The nut helps keep the arc constrained, and gives a much heavier weld than you would typically get around a bolt, not to mention less chance of twist off, just as you suggest.
Anyway, problem with a bolt is that you can very easily arc over into the block and blow holes or weld the plug to the block, or effectively form something like a keyway that won't let it turn due to mechanical interference. The nut helps keep the arc constrained, and gives a much heavier weld than you would typically get around a bolt, not to mention less chance of twist off, just as you suggest.
