What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Speedo cable, distributor, leaking

J

joshkbomb

1/2 ton status
Joined
Dec 18, 2003
Posts
189
Reaction score
0
Location
Lafayette, CO
This post is long, but is a few questions that have managed to build up over the past few weeks that you guys may be able to help with.

1. My speedometer cable makes a clicking sound all the time (since the cable was new a year and a half ago). I've figured it's slightly too small and slides out the back of the speedometer just enough to start clicking but still operate the speedometer. I figured this out by re-seating it a couple times and the sound goes away for a day or two. Is there some kind of spacer I can put on the other end at the transfer case to 'lengthen' it, or should I just get a new one (pain in the but)?

2. I have a leak coming down from underneath the dash onto the driver's side floor beneath the emergency brake. I've searched and the only explanations I can find are a plugged drain hole under the panel between the hood and windshield (what's it called?) and a leaking windshield. My windshield isn't leaking, so it must be the plugged drain hole. The problem is I can't get my windshield wiper arms off to get the panel off and look for this drain hole. How am I supposed to do this? I've pried with long pieces of metal for leverage but neither has come off.

3. My base timing is 4* before (retarded?) and I went to fix it but I can't reach the distributor loosening bolt. I think there's a special wrench for this but I wanted to ask if there was some trick to this before I went out and bought a tool with only one purpose.

4. When I was checking the timing I noticed that when I plugged the ESC back in, the timing shot to 20-24* before (guess because it was beyond the scale). Is this normal/okay? Oh, and the engine was at operating temp at the time.

Whew, that was a lot of stuff. My truck is an 87 Blazer with a 350 and mostly stock (msd ignition coil is all the non-stock). I've been going through everything recently because with gas prices being what they are ($100 for my last tank and this is my daily driver) I think I can do better than the 16.5mpg(very light foot) I've been getting. Thanks for any help you can give! :waytogo:
 
joshkbomb said:
This post is long, but is a few questions that have managed to build up over the past few weeks that you guys may be able to help with.

1. My speedometer cable makes a clicking sound all the time (since the cable was new a year and a half ago). I've figured it's slightly too small and slides out the back of the speedometer just enough to start clicking but still operate the speedometer. I figured this out by re-seating it a couple times and the sound goes away for a day or two. Is there some kind of spacer I can put on the other end at the transfer case to 'lengthen' it, or should I just get a new one (pain in the but)?

2. I have a leak coming down from underneath the dash onto the driver's side floor beneath the emergency brake. I've searched and the only explanations I can find are a plugged drain hole under the panel between the hood and windshield (what's it called?) and a leaking windshield. My windshield isn't leaking, so it must be the plugged drain hole. The problem is I can't get my windshield wiper arms off to get the panel off and look for this drain hole. How am I supposed to do this? I've pried with long pieces of metal for leverage but neither has come off.

3. My base timing is 4* before (retarded?) and I went to fix it but I can't reach the distributor loosening bolt. I think there's a special wrench for this but I wanted to ask if there was some trick to this before I went out and bought a tool with only one purpose.

4. When I was checking the timing I noticed that when I plugged the ESC back in, the timing shot to 20-24* before (guess because it was beyond the scale). Is this normal/okay? Oh, and the engine was at operating temp at the time.

Whew, that was a lot of stuff. My truck is an 87 Blazer with a 350 and mostly stock (msd ignition coil is all the non-stock). I've been going through everything recently because with gas prices being what they are ($100 for my last tank and this is my daily driver) I think I can do better than the 16.5mpg(very light foot) I've been getting. Thanks for any help you can give! :waytogo:
Click to expand...

1. I am inclined to say replace the speedo cable. You can (and should at intervals) lubricate it, IIRC with a moly grease, but by this point it's prolly shot.

2. The panel is called the cowl. I've not worked on 81-up trucks much, so I'm no help ;)

3. For <$10 you can get a magic wrench for this at Kragen/Shucks/Checker/Autozone/whatever. They're nasty, but the "real" ones cost more. Or you can find someone with a welder, have them trim down a 9/16" socket so it's only got ~1/4" of socket depth, and weld a piece of 1/4" or 5/16" rod to it, bent as appropriate as a handle.

4. Base timing should prolly be a bit more than 4*, like maybe 8*-10*. The jump is normal 'cuz it is *base* timing, and will change when you reconnect stuff like the vacuum line (on my old trucks =)) or your computer.

Depending on gearing, transmission, and tire size, 16.5MPG is likely pretty good.

-- A
 
joshkbomb said:
This post is long, but is a few questions that have managed to build up over the past few weeks that you guys may be able to help with.

1. My speedometer cable makes a clicking sound all the time (since the cable was new a year and a half ago). I've figured it's slightly too small and slides out the back of the speedometer just enough to start clicking but still operate the speedometer. I figured this out by re-seating it a couple times and the sound goes away for a day or two. Is there some kind of spacer I can put on the other end at the transfer case to 'lengthen' it, or should I just get a new one (pain in the but)?

2. I have a leak coming down from underneath the dash onto the driver's side floor beneath the emergency brake. I've searched and the only explanations I can find are a plugged drain hole under the panel between the hood and windshield (what's it called?) and a leaking windshield. My windshield isn't leaking, so it must be the plugged drain hole. The problem is I can't get my windshield wiper arms off to get the panel off and look for this drain hole. How am I supposed to do this? I've pried with long pieces of metal for leverage but neither has come off.

3. My base timing is 4* before (retarded?) and I went to fix it but I can't reach the distributor loosening bolt. I think there's a special wrench for this but I wanted to ask if there was some trick to this before I went out and bought a tool with only one purpose.

4. When I was checking the timing I noticed that when I plugged the ESC back in, the timing shot to 20-24* before (guess because it was beyond the scale). Is this normal/okay? Oh, and the engine was at operating temp at the time.

Whew, that was a lot of stuff. My truck is an 87 Blazer with a 350 and mostly stock (msd ignition coil is all the non-stock). I've been going through everything recently because with gas prices being what they are ($100 for my last tank and this is my daily driver) I think I can do better than the 16.5mpg(very light foot) I've been getting. Thanks for any help you can give! :waytogo:
Click to expand...

(1) Clicking speedo usually means the cable needs to be lubed.

(2) Is the leak water? It could be a bad master cylinder leaking brake fluid (they sometimes leak into the brake booster and out the back side into the passenger compartment).

(3) The timing on a TBI truck should be set to zero with the EST wire unplugged. There are distributor wrenchs made for this purpose or you can use a swivel socket. (That's what i've found works best)

(4) When the EST wire is plugged back in the timing will be advanced by usually 20* or more, that's normal.
 
blazindorito said:
16.5 MPG!!!! That is really good. I wish my 2001 Tahoe 4x4 stock would get this kind of mileage. I am only getting 12 MPG.
Click to expand...

I was getting 13-13.5 mpg before I started reading about hypermiling a few months ago. It's hard to go slow though because all I want to do is hear the 350 hit 3500 rpms! It's a good thing I like this truck enough to deal with the gas mileage.
 
4X4HIGH said:
(1) Clicking speedo usually means the cable needs to be lubed.

(2) Is the leak water? It could be a bad master cylinder leaking brake fluid (they sometimes leak into the brake booster and out the back side into the passenger compartment).

(3) The timing on a TBI truck should be set to zero with the EST wire unplugged. There are distributor wrenchs made for this purpose or you can use a swivel socket. (That's what i've found works best)

(4) When the EST wire is plugged back in the timing will be advanced by usually 20* or more, that's normal.
Click to expand...

1) I normally would think that a clicking speedo cable would need to be lubed too, but it started a couple weeks after I bought it (came pre-lubed). I just ignored it the past 1.5 years because I've been busy but it's starting to get annoying.

2) No, the leaking is water. It only happens when it's raining or I go through the car wash.

3) Maybe I'll try and get a swivel socket. At least I will probably find other uses for it. I hate tools with one specific use.

4) That's good to hear, I just wanted to make sure.
 
If I do decide to get another speedo cable altogether, where would have the best one? I wish I could remember where I got the one I have now so I wouldn't have to deal with it again (I think it was Checkers).
 
AFAIK even a brand new cable needs to be lubed and does not come pre-lubed. (at least all that i've ever done).
 
Yeah, lube the new one. On reflection, I *think* I had one speedo wear out on me and it clicked and flailed on me, like the needle would jump all over the place. As I have a stack of instrument clusters laying around, it was easy enough to replace with another one, and I think I actually took the time to reset the replacement's odo to the same mileage. (They are interchangeable, IIRC, with patience and a small screwdriver.)

-- A
 
To remove the wipers, look right at the base of the wiper arm and there will be a little tab sticking up. This tab pulls away from the wiper arm, and is usually a big pain to get to move the first time. Once the tab is pulled out, simply work the wiper arm back and forth, while gently pulling up, and it should work it's way off the splines. You don't want a lot of leverage or you will break the wiper stanchions. If I had mine here I would take a quick shot of the tab to illustrate.
 
I used a small screw driver between the tab an the part of the motor sticking into the wiper.Lift and wiggle as close to the base of the wiper as you can. If you STILL need help I have one in the closet I can take a pic of.
 
:haha: I was bored...and cant go to bed yet,wife an kid are watching Mary Fing Poppins :rolleyes: So here.


Picture 002.jpg

Picture 003.jpg

Picture 002.jpg

Picture 003.jpg
 
Thanks for the pictures, but I'm not a member so I couldn't look at them. I got the wipers off though (thanks everyone for the help). Unfortunately, I broke the tab on one of the wipers so I'm going to have to get a new one.

I couldn't find anywhere under the cowl that had a drain hole (or any dirt, it was pretty clean) so I think I'm re-assessing the idea that my windshield isn't leaking.

Since the speedo cable has been clicking for so long, should I replace the casing and the cable? I replaced both a year and a half ago.
 
Can you reverse the cable? (either the complete assembly or just the inner drive piece)

I would imagine if it's actually the cable, the clicking would be unnoticeable if it were at the transfercase.

I'd look to GM for a problem free cable if I was going to replace it.
 
Try pulling the cable out and regreasing it first. MIGHT cure it and save some $$$ its worth a shot and its super easy to do too.
 
You can't invert the cable, the ends are specific to where they need to be installed.

Definitely try greasing the cable, at worst it won't help, at best it may solve the issue.
 
I thought both ends were square drive?

I never really paid attention, so it's learning for me. :)
 
dyeager535 said:
I thought both ends were square drive?

I never really paid attention, so it's learning for me. :)
Click to expand...

IIRC both ends are square but one end has a stop bushing swedged on it to keep the cable in the correct location.
 
Ahh, gotcha. Figured they wouldn't need a stop if they got the cable length right lol. ;)
 
Maybe that's one of the problems with mine. I don't remember there being a 'stop bushing'. That could explain the slipping out of the speedometer issue.

A new GM speedo cable is $34, so I might as well replace it and solve any problems in one shot (I need to make a gmpartsdirect order anyway). So when I get it, it has to be lubricated before I put it on? What lubricant do I use? Some things say graphite and some say oil based.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom