CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

speedo pegged and batterys dead. come on!

klowninc89

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 15, 2009
Posts
127
Reaction score
1
Location
ohio
It started with gauge idle fuse kept popping and I tracked it down to a pink wire with black stripe under the brake booster. I fix that all seemed fine charged it and parked the truck. Went out that eve to check it and speedo was pegged over to 85 and battery was dead. This is a 1990 k5 blazer 350 tbi with 700r4. I don't know what the issue is truck seemed to run good when I parked it please help me.
 
Not a clue this time. Disconnect the battery, charge it up disconnected, and then test for a load when you hook it back up.

Hook up the positive terminal, put the test light between the neg. post and wire.
Should be fairly bright. Pull fuses until light goes out, and that will tell you which circuit it is.
Might be a shorted speedometer. That would explain both the pegged part, and the drain.
 
Ok I'm charging the battery now...but if I put that test light on the neg side and pull fuses how will that light go out? Does it not sit have a ground?.....
 
Ok I'm charging the battery now...but if I put that test light on the neg side and pull fuses how will that light go out? Does it not sit have a ground?.....

It is still a ground, but no current will be pulled through it if all accessories are off and you pull the fuse on whatever is your constant draw.
 
Put the test light between the negative post and the negative battery cable. Don't hook the negative cable to the battery.
That way, any current will have to go through the test light causing it it light up.

When you pull the fuse that has the current drain on it that is killing the battery, the light will no longer have any current flow and will go out.
 
and just in case.... if the draw remains after you've tried all the fused circuits, you've got a fried diode in the alternator...
 
only in about 3 feet of mud and 6inch thick trees brother!...lol thanks i will try that next guys.
 
Ok well no luck with the fuse thing....will try alt soon but while runnig has a good charge. I went to turn the truck off and did turn the key off and took them out and it was still running. Wtf? But I played with it and I can take the kes out while its in run too...does not seem right? Could this be the issue for dead battery cause nothiing really turns off? Please help.
 
The engine running with the key off is another symptom of a bad diod in the alternator.Simple test is to remove the plug from the alt and if the problems stop it s a bad alt.
 
Two different problems.

Being able to take the keys out while it is in run, just means that the lock cylinder is worn internally.
Electrically, the truck could care less if the keys are in it or not.

Several years ago, I pulled the cylinder out of my steering column and dumped all the tumblers out.
Now, you can crank it with no key at all. In fact, the only time I use my key is to lock the doors.

BUT, if you turn the key to off, and the truck keeps running, that is a problem.
Most likely the ignition switch has problems.

If so, then it can cause all kinds of things. Especally if it is coming apart internally.

You may need to replace it. Someone here can probably tell you how many years they were the same, so you can try to find one in a junkyard.

Of course, I am quite sure that several folks here have done away with them entirely.
Just replaced it with a set of toggle switches.
 
Dang, got suckered by the key thing.
Yep, a shorted diode might just cause the run on also.
Any short that feeds power to the coil can cause the engine to do that.
 
If that's the case would it be messing with the speedometer? Its still says 85 when 9in park?
 
Cant comment on the spedo problem accept to say Id bang on the dash and see if its just stuck because it should reset back to zero.
 
ok well hooked the battery up and everything came on dash fuel pump and everything....i took off the electrical plug from the alt and was still on. is this a bad ignition switch? if so how bad are they to replace?
 
ok got the ignition switch out and got a new one now i cant get it in? will not fit how do they come out and not go back in? seems like that bar is to long...please help
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom